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Is there a special swith or button I am supposed to push?

  • Thread starter Thread starter KRISTI'SGS550
  • Start date Start date
doctorgonzo said:
FINALLY getting it running pretty good. Valves next weekend. I finally found a deserted and clear highway spot yesterday to open it up a bit I was at 7500 RPM doing 75 MPH as I shifted from 4th to 5th gear, got scared of the old ass tires and backed off.
Click to expand...

Oh, yeah no doubt. You never know what those old crudy tires are going to do.

Cory
 
I ran some test and here is what I found.

Battery: 12.71

1st Coil: 9.5?

2nd Coil: 9.68 but sometimes 11.1

Does this call for the Coil Relay Mod? Could this be my starting problem and small spark problem? Also can I check what the voltage is coming out of the coils, wires and caps? How do I go about doing this safely?

Cory
 
KRISTI'SGS550 said:
I ran some test and here is what I found.

Battery: 12.71

1st Coil: 9.5?

2nd Coil: 9.68 but sometimes 11.1

Does this call for the Coil Relay Mod? Could this be my starting problem and small spark problem? Also can I check what the voltage is coming out of the coils, wires and caps? How do I go about doing this safely?

Cory
Click to expand...

Mine was worse than that, dropping all the way to 8 at the coils, probably from the old kill switch. Personally, no harder or more expensive than it is, I'd do it (the relay mod) BUT it's probably not the whole answer. If there is any way you could get a probe to touch at the coil end of the spark plug wire you could check resistance (should be zero) and you can check resistance on the cap (should be 5 Ohms). That being said, at $3.00 each (or so) I'd get all new caps. I put in new coils, did the relay mod, installed new wires and got new caps for 2 & 3 (the caps for 1 & 4 were out of stock at local dealer) and I STILL had problems with cylinder 1 and sometimes 4. Guess what fixed it.... getting the new caps for cylinder 1 & 4. It hasn't missed or fouled a plug since.
 
KRISTI'SGS550 said:
I ran some test and here is what I found.

Battery: 12.71

1st Coil: 9.5?

2nd Coil: 9.68 but sometimes 11.1

Does this call for the Coil Relay Mod? Could this be my starting problem and small spark problem? Also can I check what the voltage is coming out of the coils, wires and caps? How do I go about doing this safely?

Cory
Click to expand...

Cory,

You would need a machine that costs more than your bike is worth.

Here's the garage standard - pull all 4 plugs, put them on the sparks plug wires and ground them to the motor.
Then, once it's dark out, hit the starter button and check your sparks
Red is dead
Blue is true
White is allright!

A blue /white spark is optimal. It should be nice and fat (wide) also.
 
Keep in mind that it takes more voltage to make a spark under compression. The spark test isn't definitive.
 
My sparks are pretty weak when I checked them. Not fat at all, but they are blue. So would the mod change this? Or do I need new coils, cables and caps?

I still haven't figured out why my bike isn't starting after completing the oil change. I have tried all I can, now I have the bike apart again and am contemplating the coil relay mod, but most folks say get the bike running first. At the same time if the reason it's not running is not enough voltage to the coils then will it run without this mod?

Cory
 
KRISTI'SGS550 said:
My sparks are pretty weak when I checked them. Not fat at all, but they are blue. So would the mod change this? Or do I need new coils, cables and caps?

I still haven't figured out why my bike isn't starting after completing the oil change. I have tried all I can, now I have the bike apart again and am contemplating the coil relay mod, but most folks say get the bike running first. At the same time if the reason it's not running is not enough voltage to the coils then will it run without this mod?

Cory
Click to expand...

Like most things on these old bikes it's something compounded on something exacerbated by something else. I'd do the relay mod, put new caps on the wires after cutting off an inch (unless you see obvious cracks in the wires) maybe even put in new plugs for good measure. You will get better spark for sure. Then if it won't start, look elsewhere. ALL the times mine was hard to start (so far) it's been because 1 or more cylinders wasn't firing.
 
Before doing the coil relay mod why not run some jumper wires from the battery + post direct to the coils to see if this improves the spark? If it does, go for the mod or figure out where your voltage loss is by tracing the harness.
 
Nessism said:
Before doing the coil relay mod why not run some jumper wires from the battery + post direct to the coils to see if this improves the spark? If it does, go for the mod or figure out where your voltage loss is by tracing the harness.
Click to expand...

I was wondering about doing that. Great idea! I will try that first. I think from reading other posts my carbs might not be completely on correctly. I mean they look fine, but my symptoms sound like others who say their carbs weren't on all the way. But would my bike run a couple times, and then not at all if it were the fuel/air mixture?

Cory
 
doctorgonzo said:
That being said, at $3.00 each (or so) I'd get all new caps. I put in new coils, did the relay mod, installed new wires and got new caps for 2 & 3 (the caps for 1 & 4 were out of stock at local dealer) and I STILL had problems with cylinder 1 and sometimes 4. Guess what fixed it.... getting the new caps for cylinder 1 & 4. It hasn't missed or fouled a plug since.
Click to expand...

I looked at NGK caps on Z1's web site. What degrees did you buy? Did you buy straight, 120, or 90 degree bent caps? None of them look the same than what is on my bike. The straight is the closest.

Cory
 
I pulled the float bowl drain screws and there is fuel in the carbs (quite a bit, could this be a problem?). I have spark (small) and Compression (120ish psi across the board). The battery is holding 12v+ and the coils are about 10v. Those are the things I have checked in the last couple days. Two questions, first what is wrong with my bike why isn't it starting, could it be an air leak? What else is there to check? Also, should I empty the gas from the bowls if the level seems high? I ask this because I left the bike on PRI over night. Or is it a good thing there is a lot of gas in the carbs? I would imagine that means it's flooded. Do I need to get rid of the fuel to get the bike started?

Sorry for some many questions. Hopefully we can get this thing started.

Cory
 
i am officially feeling your pain cory. fiddled with my cam chain to check timing, skipped a tooth, carbs started leaking from around the gaskets, just like that other guy, so got the valve cover back off, timing is off now, carbs are back off and being disassembled again....no joy. none at all.
 
I should add check timing to my list of to-do's on the bike. Gesh, this thing is going to take me forever!

Cory
 
After you crank on the engine with the starter are the plugs wet?

Did you do anything that could have messed with the timing?
 
Nessism said:
After you crank on the engine with the starter are the plugs wet?

Did you do anything that could have messed with the timing?
Click to expand...

I will have to check the plugs, should they be wet? If they are wet it means they are getting gas, but not throwing spark right?

During valve adjust I might have screwed the timing up somehow, who knows. Also I took the tensioner out and cleaned it when the bike was apart, could either of these do anything to timing?

Cory
 
Likely not, but you may check anyway. Turn your crank by hand till its on the TDC mark on 1-4. On the exhaust cam sprocket, there will be a "1" mark with an arrow, which should be pointing flat in line with the valve cover mating surface, or pointing SLIGHTLY below. There will also be a "2" with an arrow that should be nearly straight up. On the INtake cam sprocket will be a 3 mark that will be up and slightly forward, there should be 20 rivets between those marks (or at least thats what it calls for on the 750s, dunno if the 550s are the same, check your manual) If those marks and count isnt right, you timing is off.
 
Hold exactly do you adjust the timing if it is off? Do I have to tear into the entire block? Or it simply moving the cam and the chain?

Cory
 
You just pull the cam caps, pull the cams, being sure to hang on to the chain there (god help you if it falls down inside the case..can be gotten out without tearing it down, but its a PITA) then set your crank to TDC on oneandfour, and install cams as per the manual (or based off of what i said. I would however consult the manual to assure that it IS 20 pins on the chain between marks, just in case they are different from the 750) The manual i do believe will suggest that you do this with the tensioner OUT, i have done it with it in, but its a bit more difficult, as you have to dick around with the tensioner as you set up your cams or it will pull the cams off the marks. Then replace and set the tensioner once you have the cams in and caps on and tight. You need to keep the SLACK out of the chain as you put your cams back in, especially the exhaust side, and you may want to spin the crank around once before you put the cams in to assure that you have no pinched or bound links in the cam chain. It sounds alot more difficult than it is, and the manual explains and shows pics way better than i probably have. However, if you dont have a manual, i may be able to set up a lil pictorial for you if someone on here doesnt have one already.
 
Last edited:
TCK,
I have3 a manual, but it doesn't show anything but a few arrows. I can probably figure it out, but if you are going to do the tutorial sometime soon I would like to see it.

Thanks,

Cory
 
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