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Is this normal? (Starter Clutch Issue)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guyver
  • Start date Start date
I just suddenly ran into the same problem with a 79 GS1000L. At first I thought for sure it was the broken bolt thing described earlier. I took the cover off and hit the starter button and saw the gear spinning behind the clutch without doing anything else. I do have the threads on the outside of the hub on the clutch so I guess I need the special puller. No one has mentioned where to get one yet. Has anyone bought one? I also have a bolt in the center as well. Sounds a little different than what was described previously.

Anyway, later on, I started removing the bolt. It seemed a bit hard, so I ran it back in. Then I hit the button and it worked correctly. I guess that means that the bolts are not broken. Does that mean the clutch is bad? I'm kind of stumped.

As far as the puller goes, I was thinking of finding a nut to fit on the hud threads and then using a puller on that. What do you guys think?

Thanks
 
do a search on the forum on
'how to lock rotor', that thread will solve your issue

seems to be the same problem that I had, nothing is broken, but the flywheel is turning loose without contact to the crankshaft
 
That looks like it may solve my problem. I was stupidly searching 'starter'
and 'starter clutch'. For some reason that thread did not come up.

There was also another thread with the rotor puller. I thing I'm going to try to make one first. I'll see if I can get the appropriate nut and then try a puller on that. If that doesn't work, I'll start welding the nut to stuff until I can make it work. $50 is a bit steep for a tool I will likely only use once. If all else fails, I'll beg the machine shop at work to make one for me.

Thanks for the help.
 
If you insist on using a puller, make sure you don't mess up your crank threads. If you could put a nut on there and somehow use a slide hammer on it that should work.
 
Upon closer inspection, it seems that there is a threaded section inside the hole where the crank bolt goes that is larger than the actual mounting bolt. It looks almost like it is there just to pull it. Since I could not find a nut anywhere near large enough, I may try to find a bolt that fits those larger threads and use a slide hammer on that. I think I may have to weld the bolt I get to anoother bolt to get it to work with the hammer. We'll have to see.

Thanks
 
You don't need to go to all of that trouble, all you need is a 14mm X 1.5 thread pitch X 3" bolt and an impact wrench. Thread the bolt into the rotor, carefully give it a shot or two with the impact wrench and the rotor should pop right off.
 
I'll give that a try and see what happens. I actually already have one in my Toyota parts collection.


Thanks again.
 
txironhead said:
You don't need to go to all of that trouble, all you need is a 14mm X 1.5 thread pitch X 3" bolt and an impact wrench. Thread the bolt into the rotor, carefully give it a shot or two with the impact wrench and the rotor should pop right off.
Click to expand...

Well I don't know if this one is different than others or if I am just not doing it right. I'm guessing the ladder.

If I stick a pen or something in the hole, there is an easy 5" of space from the surface of the hole to the deepest portion, so I'm not sure how or why a 3" bolt would pull the rotor off. I did try it however and the bolt just bottoms out without contacting anything or removing the rotor.

I can't seem to find a nut large enough to fit over the threads on the outside portion of the hub on the rotor so that is out. And I have not yet found a bolt that will fit the larger sized threads on the inside, larger threads on the outer portion of the rotor that I can use with the slide hammer.

Should I place something inside the hole, like a pin or threaded rod, to take up some space between the 3" bolt and the back of the hole so there is something for it to sort of push against? I really don't want to screw it up but I really don't want to buy this one time use $50 + shipping tool either. There HAS to be another way, even if it takes a little longer.

Thanks again and sorry for all the questions.
 
The bolt has worked for me and others, but then mine did not have the external threads. The crank bolt on my GS750E is 12mm, and the larger interior threads on my rotor are 14mm, so there is a lip for the 14mm bolt to press against and therefore push the rotor off of the crankshaft. Yours may only be able to utilize the exterior puller. However, if the threads on the inside of the rotor are larger than the threads on the inside of the crank, a sufficiently sized bolt should be able to take the rotor off. If you don't have an impact wrench, I've heard that threading the larger bolt in until it bottoms out and rapping it with a hammer, tightening the bolt while doing so, will take the rotor off.

You really don't want to attempt anything that might damage the threads on your crankshaft, as I did when I attempted to remove the rotor using a three-jaw puller. Now I've got to fix the threads on the crank before I can do anything else.
 
Thanks TX. I guess that is where the confusion lies. My larger thread sizes are different. I am still hunting for the bolt.

I'll let you know what finally works.

Thanks again.
 
Removing GS1000 Rotor (Starter Clutch)

Removing GS1000 Rotor (Starter Clutch)

AHAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!

I finally found the bolt I needed to remove the rotor. Mine happens to be a M16 x 1.5mm. It worked pretty easily once I was able to locate the correct size. I had to go to an industrial supply company to find the one I needed. The bolt that actually holds the rotor on is a M14 x 1.5mm.

Thanks 82 but the one I needed is a little different. I did find the puller but it was $49.99 plus shipping which would have brought it to about $60.

Thanks for all the help guys.

For future searches:

Model: 1979 GS1000L.

Problem: Starter runs but does not engage the starter clutch. (or) How to remove the rotor without a puller.

NOTE: On mine, there was a M14 bolt securing the rotor on the crank. Once I removed this, I saw there was also a little larger set of threads sort of in front of the M14 bolt hole. I measured the pitch as 1.5 and the diameter was M16.

To remove the rotor:
1) Remove the M14 bolt securing the rotor on the crank.
2) Clean the outer threads with a pick to remove any Loctite.
3) Thread the M16 x 1.5 bolt, mine was 80mm long, into the outer threads of the rotor.
4) Slowly run the bolt all the way into the hole until it stops to ensure the threads are clean to the end.
5) Back the bolt out to where it is just started on the threads.
6) Using an impact gun, run the bolt in until it stops. Do this three or four times and the rotor should pop off.
 
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