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It is COOKED! R/R

  • Thread starter Thread starter Clone
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C

Clone

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8-[ Well, mounted my rear tire and balanced both the front and back. Then wanted to go for a ride. Bike won't start. Put the charger on it for a while, started it up and let it warm up. It dies, WTF! Go to start it won't start. Put the charger on it again and start it up. Check the battery with the meter, the voltage is continually dropping. So check the wiring, looks good, check the r/r, it is burned and black. The first leg of the stator is completely burned off, the wire is ok, but the connector from the r/r is done like dinner. So there is nothing coming from the r/r.
Now don't know if this is the right thing to do, but it's done. I checked the legs of the stator from yellow to ground and get 3VAC from each. Turned off the bike and checked each leg to ground with the ohm meter and get no reading, check each leg against each other and get 0.001 on the 20K setting.
I know I need a new r/r, do I need to order a new stator as well.
I will see about printing off the stator pages tomorrow and doing that test if I can get the battery charged. But I am thinking I should just order both.
Now, where did you guys find the best prices for Rick's products online?:cry:
Thanks for reading my long post.
 
If "the first leg of the stator is burned off", how can the wire be OK?

Are you sure you are doing the tests correctly? You say you are going to print out the stator papers and do those checks, but indicate that you have at least tried those tests, but might have done them incorrectly.
"I checked the legs of the stator from yellow to ground and get 3VAC from each." To do this test, the three yellow wires need to be disconnected from the r/r and the engine turning 4-5000 rpm. Arbitrarily number the yellow wires 1, 2, and 3. It does not matter which is which. Measure the AC voltage from 1 to 2, then 2 to 3, then 3 to 1. Because it is AC voltage, it does not matter which lead is on which wire, but be sure to measure all three pairs." Turned off the bike and checked each leg to ground with the ohm meter and get no reading, check each leg against each other and get 0.001 on the 20K setting."
Again, all three yellow wires must be disconnected from the r/r. If you have an analog meter, go to about the lowest resistance scale that you have. 10 or 20 ohms would be fine, 20K is a bit much. Polarity does not matter here, either. Bike should NOT be running. Clamp one lead to the stator cover and check each lead for continuity. Your meter should NOT move at all for any lead. Now check the same pairs that you did in the last test. Resistance from lead 1 to lead 2 should read a couple of ohms. Same for 2 to 3 and 3 to 1. All three readings should be somewhat equal. If a reading is lower than the others, that pair might have an internal short. If it is much higher, a wire might be broken. Either way, that coil is not contributing to your battery's health

Having a cooked stator does not guarantee a bad r/r, but check the r/r, too. Does your meter have a "diode check" function? If not, use about at 1000 ohm resistance scale. Clamp the positive meter lead to the output (battery +) wire of the r/r. Touch the negative meter lead to each of the yellow input leads. There should be NO reading. Reverse the leads, put the negative meter lead to the battery + lead of the r/r, then touch the positive meter lead to each of the stator leads. There SHOULD be a reading. If you are using a diode test function on a digital meter, it should read about 0.6. If you are using the resistance function on an analog meter, the meter should move. Note the reading, but the actual number does not matter. It is more important that all three leads give about the same reading.
Now do all the same readings on the battery negative output wire of the r/r. With the negative meter lead clamped to the r/r negative wire, there should be no reading. Reverse the leads as before, there should be readings similar to the ones for the positive side.
All together, you are doing TWELVE readings for diode tests. You are testing six diodes in two directions each. If ANY of these twelve readings is wrong, your r/r is toast. If just one reading is off, your toast might just be golden brown. If more than one is off, your toast is just darker and crispier, but it's still toast.

Replacements? Rick's is a good choice for stators, but at bit spendy. You can take your chances at eBay for less money, but also possibly less peace of mind. For a replacement r/r, consider the Honda upgrade that many of us have already done. eBay is a good source here. Many have found units from early- to mid-80s CX500 work well. There are others, too, and connectors will have to be modified on any of them, but they seem to work better than Suzuki r/rs do.

(Nothing special in these instructions, they are basically what is in the stator papers, which are a good summary of basic electronic troubleshooting practice.)


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Clone said:
8-[ Well, mounted my rear tire and balanced both the front and back. Then wanted to go for a ride. Bike won't start. Put the charger on it for a while, started it up and let it warm up. It dies, WTF! Go to start it won't start. Put the charger on it again and start it up. Check the battery with the meter, the voltage is continually dropping. So check the wiring, looks good, check the r/r, it is burned and black. The first leg of the stator is completely burned off, the wire is ok, but the connector from the r/r is done like dinner. So there is nothing coming from the r/r.
Now don't know if this is the right thing to do, but it's done. I checked the legs of the stator from yellow to ground and get 3VAC from each. Turned off the bike and checked each leg to ground with the ohm meter and get no reading, check each leg against each other and get 0.001 on the 20K setting.
I know I need a new r/r, do I need to order a new stator as well.
I will see about printing off the stator pages tomorrow and doing that test if I can get the battery charged. But I am thinking I should just order both.
Now, where did you guys find the best prices for Rick's products online?:cry:
Thanks for reading my long post.
Click to expand...

I found the best prices for electrex stators and R/R's is bike bandit,lower shipping and cheaper than the factory web site,done two GS's now for an average of around 240$ which is 200$ cheaper than stock which has no warranty, unlike electrex which has a warranty, and at BB you can also buy your gasket at the same time, electrex electrical items work like a champ.
 
9771re2.jpg


I guess I didn't expain well, the wires look ok, and are not burnt, the r/r is, here are the photos:



a2c3re2.jpg
 
so printed off the flow-chart from the stator pages and this is what I got:
Test A=I know the r/r is bad as it is burned to a crisp

Test B= Three readings are: 1.3ohms, 1.2ohms, 1.2ohms
So I think this test is a pass, right?

Test B part II: Three readings result in no change of the infinite reading on the display,
So this is a pass, right?

Test B part III: Three readings are: 74V +/- 1, 74V +/-0.5, 75V +/- 0.5
(it is hard to keep the RPM exactly at 5000rpm) so it was up and down a little over about 500rpm, I think this test is a pass, right?

Test C buying a new battery anyway

So from the findings of part B I think the stator is ok, can someone confirm this for me? And I only need a regulator, correct?

Thanks for any feedback
 
Last edited:
Yup, sounds like it's regulator time.

Now it's time to choose a new one with a warranty or a Honda model from eBay.


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