It is stator time for my 850

[TPL]

Thats what I hear from people running it that way; I think that TCK will say to put in a 20 amp fuse. If that is the sole feed, then the current still comes back through your stock fuse box, so I'm not sure if that one is upped as well.

In the stock configuration under normal running the OE main 15A fuse is only supplying about 10 amps peak and that is only when the R/R is shorting the stator (25-50% average for example). So on it might only be 2.5-5 amps average current. The R/R(+) is unfused.

When you go direct from R/R(+) to Battery(+), the inline fuse is carrying 14 amps peak and say 50-75% on average anyhow you can do the arithmetic there is more current peak and average in that fuse and it all travels back through the stock fuse box as well.

I'm just doing this off the top of my head, but you get the idea you are changing the current flow. I don't like it but alot of people are getting away with it. On the other hand alot are changing out fuse boxes so draw your own conclusions.

Wallowgreen installed a SERIES R/R into one of his bikes; he is also an Electrical engineer. After describing the situation to him he agreed it was safer to keep the stock wiring rather that change it and cause some unforeseen and inadvertent side effect.

I would only do what you are planning if I could not get my voltage drops down under 0.2V. And then I would probably just add the extra wire and leave the stock connections in place. I have a coil relay mod to power my entire ignition and have been able to clean all of the connections to get my voltage drops down to sub 0.2V range.

It makes very good sense what you are saying, now you have me thinking a bit about this.
The cover gasket won't get here till Monday so nothing is installed yet. If I keep wiring original and + R/R from "T" instead will the R/R be protected by stock fuse, I suppose it doesn't matter as the new R/R is rated 50A total and 30A for a single phase and the stator will only produce a max of 15A. I'll wire to the stock config then and see where everything is at.

 

[posplayr]

It makes very good sense what you are saying, now you have me thinking a bit about this.
The cover gasket won't get here till Monday so nothing is installed yet. If I keep wiring original and + R/R from "T" instead will the R/R be protected by stock fuse, I suppose it doesn't matter as the new R/R is rated 50A total and 30A for a single phase and the stator will only produce a max of 15A.

If you are going to keep it stock, I would open up your harness a little near where the R/R connects. You will find the "T" crimp and go a little further and you will find the primary ground crimps.

I would clean those all with a little navel jelly and flow some solder into the crimps to keep them low resistance and relatively immune to corrosion with the solder. You can look at the fuse box the same way and clean it and look for corroded crimps. It is a little more work that way, but be better in the long run.

Also if you ever plan to put in a coil relay mod (also fused) then add a third wire to the "T" for future coil relay addition. You can tape it back and use it later if you decide to add it. With the described mods, the voltage drops between your battery and R/R will be good for charging, but the coils still suffer from ignition and Kill switch corrosion.


http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1429196#post1429196

 

[TPL]

If you are going to keep it stock, I would open up your harness a little near where the R/R connects. You will find the "T" crimp and go a little further and you will find the primary ground crimps.

I would clean those all with a little navel jelly and flow some solder into the crimps to keep them low resistance and relatively immune to corrosion with the solder. You can look at the fuse box the same way and clean it and look for corroded crimps. It is a little more work that way, but be better in the long run.

Also if you ever plan to put in a coil relay mod (also fused) then add a third wire to the "T" for future coil relay addition. You can tape it back and use it later if you decide to add it. With the described mods, the voltage drops between your battery and R/R will be good for charging, but the coils still suffer from ignition and Kill switch corrosion.

Yep, got it, that's what I'll do and adding the wire for the future mod is a good idea as well. I also went through the fuse box and it is very clean.
Thanks for the advice.

 

[TPL]

I think I made a mistake ordering the side cover gasket from Bike Bandit along with a few other needed items, been like a week and half??. I know they are in California but? Maybe they are delivering it via motorcycle, lol

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I think I made a mistake ordering the side cover gasket from Bike Bandit along with a few other needed items, been like a week and half……. I know they are in California but… Maybe they are delivering it via motorcycle, lol

Nobody stocks parts for these 30 year old motorcycle. They all have to order them from either a Suzuki distribution warehouse stateside or all the way back from Japan. If the parts are coming from Japan then you may have to allow extra time because of all the tsunami and nuclear reactor trouble they've had there recently.

I once waited what I thought was three weeks for an order of OEM parts. When I checked the calendar and counted the days, it was only 13 business days. Not too bad considering. Well, yeah, it was almost three weeks, as time progresses in a linear fashion, but I doubt anyone can get your parts any quicker. Z1 and Partshark are a lot closer to you.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[posplayr]

I think I made a mistake ordering the side cover gasket from Bike Bandit along with a few other needed items, been like a week and half??. I know they are in California but? Maybe they are delivering it via motorcycle, lol

Unless the prices are really really good I don't order from BB anymore especially NOt OEM parts. To many problems getting parts, communications and not letting you know when something is back ordered and them holding orders till every part is in and on and on.

 

[TPL]

Unless the prices are really really good I don't order from BB anymore especially NOt OEM parts. To many problems getting parts, communications and not letting you know when something is back ordered and them holding orders till every part is in and on and on.

Yea, I finally got the goods today, got everything buttoned back up and I have 14.1V at idle, 14.5V at 3500 and 14.7V at 5-6000 rpm. I did what you said checking the splices you recommended in the previous post, all looked very good.

Thank you for all the help and knowledge posplayr

 

[TPL]

Hi,



Nobody stocks parts for these 30 year old motorcycle. They all have to order them from either a Suzuki distribution warehouse stateside or all the way back from Japan. If the parts are coming from Japan then you may have to allow extra time because of all the tsunami and nuclear reactor trouble they've had there recently.

I once waited what I thought was three weeks for an order of OEM parts. When I checked the calendar and counted the days, it was only 13 business days. Not too bad considering. Well, yeah, it was almost three weeks, as time progresses in a linear fashion, but I doubt anyone can get your parts any quicker. Z1 and Partshark are a lot closer to you.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

That is probably the case, but when I ordered the various gaskets and half moons they said all was in stock and would ship that day, it really is no big deal as it has been between 90-100 degrees here this week and I don't like baking in the heat. When I first got the bike I ordered the tires for it from BB, the price was great, shipping was 8 bucks and I had them in a day, I was surprised how fast on that order so I guess I got spoiled, lol.