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It's ALIVE!... ALI... Uh, Awww man.

  • Thread starter Thread starter SeanMora77
  • Start date Start date
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SeanMora77

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Bike is running. Squared away the gas tank rust dilemma and put her back together, filled her up, roared to life. Roared the slightly less mighty roar of the two cylinder variety. I took her for a spin and it comes out of the hole fine, when I get to around 4k rpm she bogs down pretty hard. Not nearly as powerful as she was before. Checked the plugs and one and four have no spark. Switched the ignition coil to see if the one that serves 1 and 4 may have been bad, no dice. On the upshot, the charging system is fully functioning. She starts with little to no hesitation, idles beautifully. Sounds good, not great though. Any suggestions?
 
? I honestly don't even know where the Ignitor box is... Strange thing here is that the bike has been out of commission for the last month or so for several maintenance issues but the last time it ran I had spark on all four. I haven't done anything to cause a half shot Ignitor box but I did service many wires and connections... Hoping just a loose wire or corroded connection I may have missed. Where is the Ignitor box located, and how could I test it?
Thanks
 
Ok, so of the two bundles of wires coming from the Ignitor box, I found a solid red wire with a roughly three eighths scuff to the copper. Going to splice and solder. Hoping this fixes the issue...
 
SeanMora77 said:
Ok, so of the two bundles of wires coming from the Ignitor box, I found a solid red wire with a roughly three eighths scuff to the copper. Going to splice and solder. Hoping this fixes the issue...
Click to expand...
Solid red wire ?? - sounds more like R/R than igniter-are you sure?
 
Correction, it was to the r/r. I disconnected the Ignitor box and all surrounding components and cleaned the socket terminals. Found a cooked ground wire which I repaired... Now my horn works beautifully:o. Re-assembled everything and started her up... Same deal. Oh, and the red wire was actually not scuffed to the copper though it sure looked like it was. Discovered this only after I cut it.:(. I have two sets of coils and I seriously doubt they are both bad, especially because I just had spark to all four a little over a month ago. I discovered about a week ago that the main harness was run wrong through the front of the frame and under the (spacer?) between the forks so that turning the handle bars caused friction to the harness. Did not wear through to the wires though... I opened up the headlight, pulled all the connections,( only after labeling each one of course), and fed the harness through the right way. I triple checked every connection before I closed it up but I will open it up and go through them all again, along with everything in the wiring diagram. This machine wants to run, starts so easily. I really hope it's something simple. Ill go dive back into it and post results. Thanks again
 
It is easy to check the primary and secondary resistance of the coils.
It could be one bad plug cap. Bad plug caps will make and engine run crappy at higher RPM.
 
It turns out that my problem is indeed the Ignitor box. I checked all connections in between and everything looked fine. I then disconnected the coil that is working and plugged the wires into the other side and I got spark. Coils are fine. I then removed the Ignitor box and opened it up to see if there was any obvious problems and discovered some heavily corroded solder joints in the circuit board. I cleaned thecircuit board with electronics cleaner hoping a contact had just been disrupted to no avail. Then I vacuumed the solder from the questionable joints and re-soldered them also to no avail. Frustrating because I know I can fix it I just don't know which component is fried, and with the gnarly mystery smeg that's all over the component side of the circuit board I don't know if it would even be worth all the hassle. On the hunt for a new (used) Ignitor box. Another set back and yet another learning experience. Thanks again for all your help.
 
Could it be the signal generator? Try doing the tests for the ignitor/signal gen./coils. They're on the link that tom203 wrote but a couple pages up. If it turns out to be the ignitor maybe a new Dyna would work. If your sig. gen. is bad maybe the one off my 82 will work. I would first suspect a wire that's grounding or a bad connection though.
 
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