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jet kit or re-jetting are they the same or am I stupid?

  • Thread starter Thread starter brower
  • Start date Start date
B

brower

Guest
Greetings,

I'm trying to solve the carb issue with my 80 gs1100e. It has a V&H megaphone and K&N individual filters and stock carbs. The main jets have been bumped from 107.5 main to 138 and the pilot jets have remained at 45.

I am wondering how the pilot jets need to be set. I live in North East Ohio and will be riding at around mostly at ~1000 but would like to cruise Pennslyvania and West Virginia and will be ~4000 feet.

If I buy a Dyno jet kit which stage should I go with 1 or 3 OR does anyone know how to set the jets to achive optimal performance?

Furthermore, what is the difference between re-jetting and a jet kit?
 
Pretty much the same thing except a "jet kit" comes with everything you need. The kit just puts together what any one company thinks you'll need to get the job done. You should compare the two kits:

http://www.dynojet.com/jetkits/index.aspx

http://www.factorypro.com/

You'll need to call the guys at Factorypro and discuss what it is you're doing and they'll guide you in the right direction.

As far as which "Stage" kit to get, that refers to the DynoJet kit and with your setup that would be Stage 3, modified exhaust and individual air intakes.

One of the big advantages is the adjustable slide needle. Once you have those, you'll wonder why they ever made anything else.

Good luck. RapidRay is probably the single best source for information regarding any modifications to the 1100 16v engines.

Don

btw, I have an '80 GS1100ET but with 34mm Mikuni RS Flat Slides and a V&H pipe. LOVE IT !!
 
Thanks for the input. Correct me if I'm wrong but it sounds like you might me leaning toward a factory pro jet kit instead of the Dyna or re-jetting. I would like to eliminate the issue once and for all and could swallow the cost up front instead of having to keep tinkering with the carbs. Is RapidRay a member or a web sight?

Thanks for the help. I have found this sight to be invaluable and as Senior Member I am sure you have something to do with that.
 
One of the main differences of the Factory Pro kit is that they do not have you drilling the slide lift hole. I'm not convinced that it's necessary but I'm not a carb expert either. I've gone the route with Dynojet but I had so many other issues with that particular bike that I never did get a good idea if it worked out well or not. I just believe in being as informed as possible before you spend $$$ and make changes that aren't so easily undone. There's lots of guys on this forum that's gone with Dynojet and liked the results. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Don
 
One more thing, be 100% sure that your getting a good spark. Check and recheck your coils. Primary reading for OEM should be 3-5 ohm, Seconary 31-33K Ohms. If you're still running the original set, then you NEED to get a pair of Dyna Green 3-ohm coils

http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=210

and Dyna wires

http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1310

and very possibly apply the coil relay mod, which you can search the Tech forum for and find all kinds of threads on. That's where I failed on my first GS. Kept trying to figure out what I thought was a carb problem when in reality the coils were bad. DOH !!! Live and learn.
 
Mr. Gibb, thank you for your input as well as all others who posted.

I am certain that I am still running original coils on the bike. I will have them tested. If they are still ok can I avoid buying new coils for this fix? I just spent about $1000 on the bike this season and can't really swing that this month.

I think I'll go with the Factory Pro kit.

Again thanks. I noticed you live outside of Columbus, I'm out side of Cleveland myself. We should meet up for a ride this summer.
 
i have an identical setup, i went with the DJ stage 3. it works.
 
Ditto on the Dynojet kit. I have the exact same bike and upgrades and have no issues with the carb kit.
 
brower said:
Mr. Gibb, thank you for your input as well as all others who posted.

I am certain that I am still running original coils on the bike. I will have them tested. If they are still ok can I avoid buying new coils for this fix? I just spent about $1000 on the bike this season and can't really swing that this month.

I think I'll go with the Factory Pro kit.

Again thanks. I noticed you live outside of Columbus, I'm out side of Cleveland myself. We should meet up for a ride this summer.
Click to expand...

As long as the coils resistance tests within the range, you should be ok. The fact is that they will fail sooner than later at this point and you should start saving for the replacements.

I think you'd be ok with either kit but some guys get the jitters when they think of having to drill the slide lift holes.

Yeah, I'm just east of I-270. "rpickle" or Rick is out by me too. There's a few more guys here in the area. Hopefully this will be the year we can all meet up somewhere agreeable. I'm still busy with Spring repairs on the house. My wife is relentless when it comes to that stuff. Ugh. I haven't even had the cover off my bike yet and the sun is shining as I'm writing this. Keep an eye out for a posting in the GS Meeting Place forum. I'll eventually post something there for the Ohio crowd.

Don

and btw, I'm not old enough to be a "Mr." yet. At least, I keep telling myself that. :lol:
 
Thanks Don and again to all others who have posted.

I'm going to order my (stage III) kit from Factory Pro. This is due to it having instuctions and requires no drilling. From my understanding I can do this myself and have the carbs synced at the shop. When funds permit I will puchase new coils.

It would be great to have a ride for GS members. Please let me know if I can do anything to be of assistance for this.

Brower
 
In my haste to solve this problem I think I may have overlooked an inexpensive and descent solution (but again, being my first bike I could be wrong)

Could someone with a Dynajet stage III or Factory Pro stage III share the jet sizing and needle settings with me. I could just order these size jets and save some $$$ with having the same results as buying the kit. Or do I have to buy new springs for the diaphram which the kit would include?

Due to the weather and the fact my girlfriend wants to ride (who never has) I'm hoping to have the bike on the road again by this Thursday.

Regards,
Brower
 
Ok,
For starters you didn't say what running issues you are having. Is it rich, lean, surging @ a specific rpm., not idling, not revving, etc.?

Second, Dyno jet sizing is different than Mikuni jets.They also don't appear to be as precision made as Mikuni. One reason I prefer Factory Pro, They use True Mikuni jets in their kits.

Three, The kits provide you with adjustable needle's that also have a taper thats more suited to performance mods.

Also, some of the F-pro kit's supply you with allen head screw's to replace the stock phillips screw's you will strip.
 
I'm sorry not for providing addequate information to diagnose this.

The bike is running lean as I have blued all of the pipes and have a constant 'pop' when coming off the throtle. Other than that it runs well. When I start the bike in the morning I get a large amount of white smoke from the exhaust. This only lasts for 45seconds to a minute.

Thank you for this input I'll be purchasing the Factory Pro kit tommorow.
 
The popping when coming off throttle means you need 1 or 2 sizes bigger pilot jets. Start with increasing the main jet til you get a good color after plug chops, then adjust the needle for best mid rpm roll-on power and response.
 
Got the carbs tuned in for now. I will be adjusting accodingly based on the plugs. Thanks everyone for your insight.
 
I'm from NE Ohio
With your setup I'd start with 138 DJ mains, the needle on the third notch form the bottom, 47.5 on the pilot jets and 3.5 turns out on the idle mixture screws. Drill the slide as advised by Dynojet.
If your valves and adjusted and the motor is good (compression) this setup will work for you.
 
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