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Jetting for Pods

  • Thread starter Thread starter CNRED
  • Start date Start date
C

CNRED

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I'm in the process of building a 1983 GS750E. When I got the bike it was not running. Compression is 140 to 145. The bike is running stock exhaust, and had a set of Pod type air filters. Not a big fan of Pods, but after rebuilding the carbs, I have to admit it is a lot easier to get the carbs in and out without the stock air box.
During the carb rebuild, I used an ultra-sonic cleaner to assist with the carb bodies and jets. put thm back together with new o-rings, gaskets, float needles and seats. Air jets are set at 1 ? turns out.
Re-installed the carbs and the bike fired off after a little ether was made part of the equation. I used a set of carb sticks and it seems that all are synced pretty closely.
The bike starts and idles nicely but throttle response off idle is spotty. With a little throttle coaxing it will rev but is not the crisp throttle response I am looking for.
I have no experience with pods. I am not sure what I need to do as far jetting and slide needle placement is concerned. I do not plan to change the exhaust system nor will I teplace the stock air box. The altitude here in Phoenix is about 1200 ft. Bike most likely will not do a lot of duty above 4000 ft if ever.
Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
 
First, those are fuel mixture screws (the grammar police will get you if you do not call them the correct name), and you should start at around 2 1/2 turns out.
Second, you need to go up on the main jets with either pods or a pipe, or the combination of both.
Third, it is almost impossible to get CV carbs to perform properly with pods unless you install an aftermarket jet kit.
Lastly, what brand of pods did you go with? Hopefully APE or K&N pods, as they are by far the easiest to tune properly.
 
koolaid_kid said:
First, those are fuel mixture screws (the grammar police will get you if you do not call them the correct name), and you should start at around 2 1/2 turns out.
Second, you need to go up on the main jets with either pods or a pipe, or the combination of both.
Third, it is almost impossible to get CV carbs to perform properly with pods unless you install an aftermarket jet kit.
Lastly, what brand of pods did you go with? Hopefully APE or K&N pods, as they are by far the easiest to tune properly.
Click to expand...

Good to know.
I'll re-adjust to 2 ? out and see if it makes a difference. Is there and adjustment that should be made to the position of the slide needles?
How many steps up from stock jetting should I go. or is this a trail and error situation?
I'm not sure of the make of the pods, they were on the bike when I bought it. I didn't pay much for the machine and judging from the rest of the bike I'm sure they are the cheapest that were available at the time.
Thanks for the response.
 
Dyno-mite!

Dyno-mite!

In case you're as squeamish as I am with power tools on your bike (I'd sooner take a drill to my sister-in-law than my carbs), I taped over about 7/8 of my new APE (K&N lookalikes) filters until I can get to my dyno-man, and she runs just fine, from idle to redline.
 
I think Steve knows better than I do, but it seems like 2-3 sizes larger on the mains.
Use the procedure in the link in my signature to tune the fuel mixture screws.
AFA the needles, you can start with the washer method. go to Ace Hardware and purchase some 3mm stainless steel washers. Use 4 on each needle to replace the thick nylon washer. If there is not an Ace around, go to Radio Shack and buy their washer assortment. They are SAE, but the small ones are "close enough".
That is about all you can do with with the stock needles, which have a taper poorly suited for pods.
 
koolaid_kid said:
I think Steve knows better than I do, but it seems like 2-3 sizes larger on the mains.
Use the procedure in the link in my signature to tune the fuel mixture screws.
AFA the needles, you can start with the washer method. go to Ace Hardware and purchase some 3mm stainless steel washers. Use 4 on each needle to replace the thick nylon washer. If there is not an Ace around, go to Radio Shack and buy their washer assortment. They are SAE, but the small ones are "close enough".
That is about all you can do with with the stock needles, which have a taper poorly suited for pods.
Click to expand...


Thanks so very much for the link.
I was out in the garage yesterday working on another bike and took a look at the Pods on my GS. Unfortuneately they look like the cheap E-Bay 4 for $20.00 Pods. I guess the first step is to get a set that is worth the time to tune.
 
Rob S. said:
In case you're as squeamish as I am with power tools on your bike (I'd sooner take a drill to my sister-in-law than my carbs), I taped over about 7/8 of my new APE (K&N lookalikes) filters until I can get to my dyno-man, and she runs just fine, from idle to redline.
Click to expand...

I might try this trick until I assemble all the parts and pieces I need to do the job correctly.
How did you go about taping the filters?
 
If you are going to change pods, get the APE pods. Apparently a clone of the K&N pods, but at a more reasonable price.
 
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