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Jump to car makes my bike run better?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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Ok so I have been having this problem which I described in detail here http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/viewtopic.php?t=37701&highlight=rectifier.
In summary the bike would sputter at low rpms but at highway speeds run great. It did this even after having a new battery and having the carbs cleaned and having the signal generators checked at least the ohmage. Anyway when I jump the bike with a car, a 1985 GS300L, the thing runs great. Quick throttle response, pretty smooth, the moment I unplug it from the car... sputter? I was getting ready to put in a new DYNA S ignition but now?

Help, confused in Wisconsin,
intercessor

P.S. Thanks for your help Earl...
 
AH HA!!!! sounds like you have a charging issue!!

that can explain the ignition problems.
these bikes are pretty sesitive to voltage and combine a no charge situation with dirty connections and you end up with running problems.
 
How do I tell the rpms without a tach? Yes I have access to a meter. Wouldn't a new battery produce enough power to run the ignition regardless of the charging system?

intercessor
 
I'd bet you're running with the headlight on. At low RPM the bike is NOT charging. At really low RPM, the headlight, combined with bad connections can rob enough juice from the battery to cause the spark to be weaker. Of course this would only be the case if you've got some component that's drawing more current than it's supposed to (either because of bad connections or actual component degradation). Otherwise, the bike would run fine at idle. The fact that it runs better with more current from the car battery proves that your electrical system is messed up somewhere.
Measure the voltage at the battery terminals during the "poor running" condition - if it's less than about 12.2 volts you don't really have much chance of getting those plugs to fire strongly.
As an experiment, I would disable the headlight (or turn it off if you've got a switch) and see if that makes a difference.
 
Put a brand new battery in and the bike runs great... I'll see how well it runs after I run it for a few days. I tried to do the electrical flow chart thing but I have no way of knowing what the RPMs are. I did read 16.39 volts at idle and I ran the engine up and got 15.1 volts. Maybe I could put a tach on somewhere?

intercessor
 
You've definitely got a bad regulator/rectifier. It should let no more than 14.9 volts through at ANY RPM. Having 16+ volts at idle will boil your battery dry.
 
Well I had a couple guys at work test the voltage with diferent multimeters and they both showed 15.2-15.3 at idle and the voltage dropped to 14.8-14.9 at high rpm. Apparently the meter I used is out of calibration.

intercessor

P.S. Before spending hundreds of dollars on electrical parts make sure you have a good meter...
 
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