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just about to start upper end build 850

  • Thread starter Thread starter gs850cafe
  • Start date Start date
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gs850cafe

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my part have arrived...im rebuilding the upper end on a 30k mile 850 engine(been sitting)

anywho, if i would happen to get a cam out of time, or off a tooth, with it hurt the engine...of course i will double check everything before it is cranked by starter..

i do know to make sure oil light stays on to get those new rings and valve seals nice and hot when first started.....

as apposed to another unanswered question...is there a break in for the new upper end?

i do have the 850 manual downloaded as well to help
 
gs850cafe said:
my part have arrived...im rebuilding the upper end on a 30k mile 850 engine(been sitting)
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You are rebuilding it just because it's "been sitting"?


gs850cafe said:
anywho, if i would happen to get a cam out of time, or off a tooth, with it hurt the engine...of course i will double check everything before it is cranked by starter.
Click to expand...
Just so you know, if a cam is "off a tooth", it IS "out of time".
Off by one tooth will not do any damage.
Off by two teeth might not do any damage.
Off by three teeth will probably do damage.
I don't want to think about four teeth. :oops:


gs850cafe said:
i do know to make sure oil light stays on to get those new rings and valve seals nice and hot when first started.....
Click to expand...
Please remind me to never let you rebuild MY engine. :eek:

Why would you want no lubrication when you start it up? That is the MOST CRITICAL time to have it.


gs850cafe said:
as apposed to another unanswered question...is there a break in for the new upper end?
Click to expand...
What parts are "new"? If you have replaced the rings or honed the cylinders, there WILL be a "break in".
I'm not going to bother describing a proper break in procedure, since you already have yours planned out. :rolleyes:

.
 
You are rebuilding it just because it's "been sitting"?

it had stuck rings in 3 or the 4 cylinders no idea how long its sat, didnt want a leaky jug gasket 5 months from now



Just so you know, if a cam is "off a tooth", it IS "out of time".
Off by one tooth will not do any damage.
Off by two teeth might not do any damage.
Off by three teeth will probably do damage.
I don't want to think about four teeth. :oops:

thats what i needed to know.. ive never been a tooth off, but never done a bike engine




Please remind me to never let you rebuild MY engine. :eek:

whats an engine...i was just joking

Why would you want no lubrication when you start it up? That is the MOST CRITICAL time to have it.



What parts are "new"? If you have replaced the rings or honed the cylinders, there WILL be a "break in".
I'm not going to bother describing a proper break in procedure, since you already have yours planned out. :rolleyes:

new rings, honed walls, and valve seals (of course new gaskets)..i dont have a break in planned...all ive broke in was a cam in an old mopar once

And last i have some lucas oil assemly lube...would it hurt to put that on the cam lobes or just use oil intsted...

oh and last..last
whats the easier way to remove the peice out of the back of the case where the driveshaft bolts to(has 4 bolts gear on inside of trans)...this ones missing some reason
 
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"i do know to make sure oil light stays on to get those new rings and valve seals nice and hot when first started....." That is the last thing you want to do on a bike is get it nice and hot...warmed up yes but nice and hot? Prelube prelube prelube and prelube some more.
 
The only prelubing you need to do is fill up the valve pockets with oil. The oil pump will be fine unless you messed with it.

There is nothing special you need to do on the first start up. Get the engine running but don't let it idle for an extended period of time since the engine is air cooled. When you put the bike on the road ride it assertively. Use lots of throttle but don't lug it around. Pressure is needed to seat the rings.

good luck
 
Nessism said:
The only prelubing you need to do is fill up the valve pockets with oil. The oil pump will be fine unless you messed with it.

There is nothing special you need to do on the first start up. Get the engine running but don't let it idle for an extended period of time since the engine is air cooled. When you put the bike on the road ride it assertively. Use lots of throttle but don't lug it around. Pressure is needed to seat the rings.

good luck
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i plan on doing the engine when its warm as far as switching them(about a month)...so i guess it wont hurt to do a few redline shift with it all new...maybe some 4th gear 60 0r so mph cruising?..any length of time?
 
BEFORE you start it or even turn it over with the starter motor, turn it over a few times by HAND. That way, if your timing is off, you won't bend your nice clean valves on your nice clean pistons.
 
Maddevill said:
BEFORE you start it or even turn it over with the starter motor, turn it over a few times by HAND. That way, if your timing is off, you won't bend your nice clean valves on your nice clean pistons.
Click to expand...

Good suggestion here!

As for break in, just ride it aggressively such as you would if in the city. No lugging, but no racing to redline either. Use throttle, run up though the gears, use gears again for engine for breaking, etc. No need for some fancy break in process per say, just ride it aggressively but don't hammer the thing to death either.
 
After I install the cams and the cam chain tensioner I turn it over by hand a few times and re-check the timing.
 
Nessism said:
Good suggestion here!

As for break in, just ride it aggressively such as you would if in the city. No lugging, but no racing to redline either. Use throttle, run up though the gears, use gears again for engine for breaking, etc. No need for some fancy break in process per say, just ride it aggressively but don't hammer the thing to death either.
Click to expand...

awesome i can do that...

since my current 850 is worn out pretty bad...i may see if she will turn out 13k on my gixxer tach in a gear or 2 for giggles...maybe ill feel like im riding something faster then what it is

how long before i can race/redline it?
 
Steve said:
Feel free to continue with your original plan and go head and redline it before that dreaded oil light turns off. :-\\\

.
Click to expand...


that was a joke...i know damn well not to do that..ive rebuilt a few ford 302 an an old 318....everytime i prime the motor way before it sees a starter

the reason i ask is were having a track day with the bikes early spring
 
i looked ay my jug today...itys damn near perfect....not a ridge or anything in sight...could i get a scotchbrite pad an wd40 an just clean them up real good? i cant find a ball hone local and really cant afford to buy it an use it once
 
No you can't just scotchbrite. Get a ball hone or pay someone to hone the cylinder for you.
 
Before starting the first time. Fill it with oil and turn it over by hand for about 100 revs. That will prime its oil passageways and help seat the rings.
 
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I use a three shoe hone when I want to hone/deglaze, works fine for me. Its much cheaper, available locally and adjusts itself for most any size bore.
Its a roller bearing crank, so getting oil to the mains and rods isnt critical, as long as the cams were properly prelubed. I use Cam lube very sparingly on my cam lobes and followers every time I disturb them.
 
Agemax said:
its true, when i worked for Honda you could tell how a new owner "broke" his engine in. 2 identical bikes, 1 would go like hell, the other wouldn't pull the foreskin off a snail.
1st bike,the owner took it straight from the showroom and rode it how it should be ridden.
2nd bike, the owner "carefully" ran it in, not putting the engine under load and not revving it too high.

usually bike No.2 could be saved to a degree by thrashing it up the road when it came in for its 1st service. (usually to the owners disgust, but they did have a wry smile on their face after, when they feel how much better the bike rides)
Click to expand...

Keep this in mind as well. Basically, run it like hell after the rebuild :D
 
gs850cafe said:
i looked ay my jug today...itys damn near perfect....not a ridge or anything in sight...could i get a scotchbrite pad an wd40 an just clean them up real good? i cant find a ball hone local and really cant afford to buy it an use it once
Click to expand...

Start calling around to local mechanics or machine shops - I got lucky. After the 10th "no go", I got a machine shop who referred me to a professional motocross mechanic - he only charge me $10 a cylinder!

Personally, the cylinders are one area I don't dare touch myself. Too much potential for serious damage. If possible replace pistons rings too!

Basically I lucked out, but I believe local "Twisted Cycles" shops charge $20 per cylinder. So, 40-80 for a full 4 cyl, or 40 to hone em yourself and potentially make mistakes (like I so often do!)

Good luck, I'll be rebuilding my own 850 once I finish this 1000 =]

****
Edit:

Once thing you definitely want to do once they're honed is take a rag and some oil - I used wd40 actually - and wiped down your cylinders very carefully. This will remove dust and debris leftover from honing. Also, since you very likely have cast iron sleeve it will prevent some rusting before you get around to reassembly.
 
If you used Water Displacement 40 (WD40) to clean it you are not done. You need to wipe it down with some sort of alcohol-based solvent to clean the WD40 residue off, then you need to wipe each cylinder down with some type of oil to prevent rust. Motor oil is readily available and does a fine job.
 
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