Just did my clutch!!!!!

[Anonymous]

I just finished doing my clutch on my GS 1100, and it was extremely easy!

I would say the hardest part was sanding down all the steels to get the glaze off of them....... The longest part, too!

What was weird was that when I took out the springs, I had three red ones and three natural colored ones. The red ones were a little longer than the other three. No matter, I threw in a new set of Barnett springs for good measure.

One more strange thing was that it had ten clutches and steels, instead of nine. There was no way to pack another fiber and steel in there when it went back together, though. Did they have some special fibers in there??????

I still haven't ridden it, I need to get three more quarts of oil for it. Clutch lever does not feel any stiffer than before, though....

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

some of the later clutches used thinner clutch plates that is why the extra one

 

[Anonymous]

some of the later clutches used thinner clutch plates that is why the extra one

the model B had the ten fiber disks--i purchase the new steel plates along with the fiber disks(9 each) and assembled the clutch without ever counting the disks and steel plates--it was a bear trying to adjust it-i wondered what i had done wrong--after 3 attempts at removing and replacing the disks i noticed the diference and purchased the correct ones--sometimes people use 3 racing springs and 3 stock springs to get better grip and yet not make the clutch too hard to pull--i suspect that the red ones are the HD springs

One question LS how does the bike run with the g3 cams and another question your compression is high--do you drive it on the street--i have wondered if icould have gone to at least 11 or 12 to one but was advised to use 10.25/1 i hate missing the extra HP
The springs are to be placed in the order of one red and one standard and what do you mean when you say the clutch doesnt seem any stiffer--the springs are the same ones you took out are they not and the tension should be the same i would say

 

[Hap Call]

Barnett had a ten plate clutch kit that went straight into the clutch basket...that is what you probably had. More plates means more clutch contact surface thus less slippage.

Hap

 

[Anonymous]

Barnett had a ten plate clutch kit that went straight into the clutch basket...that is what you probably had. More plates means more clutch contact surface thus less slippage.

Hap

HEY HAP
I SAW THE FITCH FOR THE MODEL B WHEN I ORDERED THE PARTS THE SECOND TIME

 

[Anonymous]

Slowpoke: My bike runs great with the added compression, but there are some drawbacks...... It is hard to start when hot, it will try to kick back against the starter. Also, when hot, and you lug the engine a bit, you can hear it detonate. I also have to run 93 octane, nothing else. Other than that, it is great! Really crisp throttle response.

The cams: They are noticable at idle, and you can run around all day under 3 or 4 grand, but when you peg it, look out! When it hits 6,000, it feels like you threw another 500 cc under it!

I street ride it 99% of the time. In fact the trip to the dragstrip last weekend was what finished off the clutch! LOL!

I replaced ALL the springs with new Barnett springs, since I didn't know what I had. The clutch now disengages completely (it used to drag), I can even start it in gear now. The lever does not seem to be as stiff as before, though.

I have yet to get on it very hard, I want to get some miles on it and break it in a little first....

 

[Anonymous]

Say LS
Just a tought--i have installed a switch in series with the ground to the headlight so i can leave it off when starting--maybe that would give you a little more umpff when you try to start you bike while its hot???

 

[Anonymous]

HAP
one of these days i wil finally wire in the kill circuit you did up for me --i get so many comments about the button that it is only right that i connect it :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[Anonymous]

Just a tought--i have installed a switch in series with the ground to the headlight so i can leave it off when starting--maybe that would give you a little more umpff when you try to start you bike while its hot???

I have been thinking about trying to rewire my switch on the throttle so that I can hit the starter button and get it spinning, then hit the ignition, but I hadn't thought about killing the headlight.... That might be a good idea!

 

[focus frenzy]

when I did my clutch the parts people got me a clutch set for a chain drive bike (E) it had nine disc but my bike (G<SHAFTY) uses ten disc of a slightly smaller diameter.

 

[Anonymous]

when I did my clutch the parts people got me a clutch set for a chain drive bike (E) it had nine disc but my bike (G<SHAFTY) uses ten disc of a slightly smaller diameter.

I think the 1150s use the ten disk set up also--my 1100 is a late 83 and had the ten disk setup--i went nuts trying to figure out why i couldnt adjust the clutch with the 9 disk setup in it--i wasnt smart enough to check the parts first

 

[Anonymous]

Hi LS

I wan't to know if you have anymore info on the cams G3 that you have in your bike.I have a 82 GS1100 with a 1260 kit with 10.25:1 comp. stage 3 jet kit on stock carbs,falicon crank with a 1150 big end and HD clutch basket. The bike has alot of low end power and was looking for more mid to high any info would be nice. About the starting problem you have I have the samething. I put in a shut off to the head light on a toggle and it starts alot better even hot. If you have any info you can e-mail at tofast1260@AOL.com.