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Just out of Storage '81 Suzuki GS650G

  • Thread starter Thread starter chance_rider
  • Start date Start date
C

chance_rider

Guest
After 16 years stored in the garage, I'm putting the bike back on the road. I changed the fluids and installed a pair of universal mufflers and the bike started up almost first time, though with lots of smoke. It ran for 30 minutes at 2000 rpm without any problems and was responsive when giving it throttle (gas). A week later I start the bike the second time and repeatedly I can't get over 1000 rpm and it stalls on its own within 2 minutes or when I give it throttle. Thinking it is a fuel problem I take out the carburators for cleaning. I have a couple of questions I'm hoping some people can answer for me:

1. What are the three indentations (maybe pinholes) that nicely line up with the top of the throttle valve when it is closed? Are they alignment marks for the throttle valve or bleed holes? If they are bleed valves or fuel ports, how do I clean and unplug these holes?

2. I installed a homemade air filter and replaced the corroded mufflers with universal mufflers. Do these change the exhaust backpressure and possibly the fuel air ratio? Do I need to synchronize the carburators because of these changes? Is it hard to synchronize the carburators for a first timer?
3. When I first started the bike there was a lot of oil burning smoke likely due to the oil squirted into the cylinders when I put the bike into storage and prior to startup. I'm concerned the old oil has gummed up the rings into the ring grooves allowing new oil past the rings into the cylinder. Otherwise I can't explain the exhaust smoke and why I have to add oil. Any comments? Also how does one loosen up rings that are gummed up without having to take the engine apart?

Looking forward to your replies.. Cheers
 
Get some Marvel Mystery Oil and pour it into the spark plug holes and let it sit for a few days.
On the starting issue you need to take apart the carbs and clean them. Whatever crud that was in your float bowls have made their way into your float needle and seat and probably the small ports.
http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm
 
I would spend the money and buy a Suzuki or Uni filter and put that back in, oiled and with the air box sealed tight. The filter alone, will make your bike run erratic...higher base idle, sluggish midrange. Do you still have the stock cage for the filter?
 
One more thing to think about...

Right now you are concerned with getting it running, but soon you will actually get it on the street. Please, please PLEASE...for your own safety, replace those 16+ year-old tires. :shock:

Some "serious" riders will change their tires every 2 or 3 years, even if they are not worn out because the rubber hardens with age. Personally, I can't imagine a "serious" rider that can't wear them out in one season. Yeah, it took me 15 months, but I put 23,000 miles on my Wing since I bought it. You could still see the tread, but it was right at the wear indicators.


.
 
Concerning the carbs:

The three holes you see at the throttle plate are fuel passages for different stages of throttle opening. They DO need to be open. Sounds like you really need to take the carbs apart and dip them. Make sure that only metal parts go into the dip. My can of Berryman's carb cleaner says to immerse the parts for 15-30 minutes, but I have much better luck by dipping them for 15-30 hours. That's right, one a day. Takes the better part of a week to do them all, but you will know that they are clean.

When you get the carb body out of the dip, use spray carb cleaner and come compressed air to blow into any hole that you can see. Wear safety glasses when you do this, some of the passages will blow right back at you. :shock: You can use a strand of copper wire a couple of inches long to poke through all the holes to make sure they are open. I just take a strand from a 16- or 18-gauge wire and poke, poke, poke. Flush with carb spray and air to make sure it stays open.

When you get the carbs together, do a bench sync to get them all to about the same throttle setting before installing them back on the bike.

Have fun resurrecting your toy and let us know how it turns out.


.
 
Steve said:
Concerning the carbs:

The three holes you see at the throttle plate are fuel passages for different stages of throttle opening. They DO need to be open. Sounds like you really need to take the carbs apart and dip them. Make sure that only metal parts go into the dip. My can of Berryman's carb cleaner says to immerse the parts for 15-30 minutes, but I have much better luck by dipping them for 15-30 hours. That's right, one a day. Takes the better part of a week to do them all, but you will know that they are clean.

When you get the carb body out of the dip, use spray carb cleaner and come compressed air to blow into any hole that you can see. Wear safety glasses when you do this, some of the passages will blow right back at you. :shock: You can use a strand of copper wire a couple of inches long to poke through all the holes to make sure they are open. I just take a strand from a 16- or 18-gauge wire and poke, poke, poke. Flush with carb spray and air to make sure it stays open.

When you get the carbs together, do a bench sync to get them all to about the same throttle setting before installing them back on the bike.

Have fun resurrecting your toy and let us know how it turns out.


.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information. I'm starting the carb cleaning today and with the info provided I have a much better understanding what I need to do. Again, thanks.
 
Go here for a great walk through of carb cleaning. Be sure to buy new gaskets and o-rings. Search out Robert Barr for the kits.

Also, check the condition of the tank interior. Is it rusted? If so, you'll need to do a Kreem kit, POR-15, or have a radiator shop (most $ but best solution) to clean and seal it up.

Tires have already been mentioned, but you'll want, at the very least, to change the brake fluid, if not the lines.

Ageing in a garage is not a good thing for any vehicle, two wheels or more. Things corrode, rot, degrade. You've probably got yourself a very workable project. It'll just take time and money to get it all sorted and then you'll have yourself a wonderful, trouble-free machine. Not to mention, you've found the premier place in helping you through it all.:-D

Brad bt
 
Cleaning rings

Cleaning rings

If you think your rings got crud from oil on them, go to a GM dealer and pick up some top engine cleaner. Measure 4 oz. and put in each cylinder. let sit for 4 hours, then suck it out with a vaccum pump. Place a rag over the spark plug holes and crank it over til shes dry. Change the oil and filter and spark plugs. It will run like **** for a bit. Take her out and "Clean her out"..Ive used this problem on toyota motors with buildup on the rings for oil consumption problems with a good margin of success. If the dealer doesnt have any "top engine cleaner" there is some new GM stuff they just came out with that is "environmentally happy". Works just as good if not better.
 
Just a word of caution when following Steve's good advice re. carb cleaning.
Some will say "Never use a wire to clean carb jets", but what they really mean is be sure you don't use too large a diam. wire or you'll screw up the jet sizes.
If you need a really small diam. wire which is a bit stiffer than copper, take a common "twisty" such as used on bread wrappers and burn the paper or plastic off of it. This will leave you with a wire which is only a few thousandths thick and really handy for cleaning out those little holes-works great-follow up with compressed air and you're done!
Lecturn_2000
 
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