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Just purchased 1982 GS1100EZ Need some help!

  • Thread starter Thread starter kctrading
  • Start date Start date
1982 GS1100EZ California model

Specs: 22.4mm with slight pressure on float pin.

Ok...right in the middle of the cleaning and checking the float level...

Manual does not show a good picture, so, do I adjust at the highest part of the foat #1...where the tang attaches to the float or at the round top of the foat which is spot 2? See attached pic

To me....Looks like #1 where the screw driver is pointing as that is the highest point...if that is the case then it's to high as it comes in at 24.0mm....I went ahead and set them all at point 1 at 22.4mm with my caliper...waiting to hear from someone if this is correct before I slap the bowls on :D

Ken
 
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You should set the float heigth at the stepdown of the float. #2 on your pic.
 
I hurt for you dude

I hurt for you dude

I have one of these awesome rides and thankfully my carbs are working "mostly" as they should.
I get depressed when I cant ride her.
Running like a champ right now....no telling what next spring will bring.
 
Red Rocket GS1100 said:
I have one of these awesome rides and thankfully my carbs are working "mostly" as they should.
I get depressed when I cant ride her.
Running like a champ right now....no telling what next spring will bring.
Click to expand...


Guys at work tell me to use gas stablizer when in storage...but here in sunny So. California I don't think it will be setting to much :)

Ken
 
UPDATE:

Did a compression test yesterday but with a stone cold motor...no carbs on it.

1 through 4 read 120, 90, 140, 105

I know about the sticking rings and I've had plenty of Honda cars that had low compression and would not even run...so I took out the plugs and ran some "Ford" Carburetor Tune-Up Cleaner, Part Number: (D9AZ-19579-BA) from a can, you can also get it in a spray which I did not have on hand... about 1/2 oz. in each hole and then bearly click the motor over so it would spread all around the rings...let it set over night and did it again this morning...this stuff is awesome! I then reinstalled the carbs and hooked everything up....bike runs like a new bike now! :D I ran it for a few minutes and blew out what was in the combustion chambers. Runs a lot smoother now with very little choke needed and can actual turn the choke off and it won't die out...got it warm (not hot) and turned off the motor...

Compression after cleaner, warm with carbs open.

1 through 4 now read 135, 135, 140, 130

Going to pick up an oil filter, o-ring and some Suzuki oil as I know most of it drained into the oil....Going to now sycn the carbs and will tackle why the headlamps and turn signals don't work.

Ken
 
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NICE FIND!!!! (I am biased, though) Glad the compression jumped up for you.

\\:D/ Ride safe!

Mike
 
Well guys I got to ride it twice today after getting some insurance though Progressive...$158 a year for full coverage ($100K, $300K, $500 deduct with towing!)

I notice that my left fork seal is leaking fluid :( What does a dealer charge do to something like this? I may tackle this myself (never done one before) any good writeup with pics for doing this? I did a search and found a lot of suggestions for getting out the fork bolt. I'm a used car tech by trade.

Also I figured out why my headlamp did not work! Seems someone installed a small toggle switch under the headlamp so it could be turned off! I also notice that my blinkers work fine if I pull up on the switch a little before turning it left or right...fix for this?

I also notice that there is a buzz in the exhaust if run higher in the rpms...anyone have any suggestions on this?

I also changed the oil and filter today after the first ride around the block.

Ken
 
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I also notice that there is a buzz in the exhaust if run higher in the rpms...anyone have any suggestions on this?

I also changed the oil and filter today after the first ride around the block.

Ken[/QUOTE]
the buzz in the exaust might be that the heat shield clamps are loose
 
bonanzadave said:
Check the rubber bumper the center stand rests on. Left side bottom exhaust.
Click to expand...


Both exhaust clamp bolts were very loose...that took out 90%...I will check the center stand rubber insulators...thanks!

Took the wife for a ride today...ran great...I notice that the left fork seal is not leaking as it did? I may drain and refill...maybe low and out of oil? Or once leak always leak?

Ken
 
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kctrading said:
Both exhaust clamp bolts were very loose...that took out 90%...I will check the center stand rubber insulators...thanks!

Took the wife for a ride today...ran great...I notice that the left fork seal is not leaking as it did? I may drain and refill...maybe out of out or low? Or once leak always leak?

Ken
Click to expand...
They don't fix themselves.
 
What he ↑ said :-D...as far as what the dealer charges, here just a few weeks ago my local suzuki dealer quoted me $180 to replace both fork seals, the part from the same dealer is $12 per seal before tax so of course I changed them and the dust boots myself for about $55 out of pocket for 2 seals, 2 dust boots, and a pint of fork oil.
 
I think you guys have concinved me to order the seals and fluid and do it myself...is there any detailed writeups on this on the web or here? Maybe someone can scan me that section out of the factory manual??? :)

Ken
 
Becides 24 and 6 what part numbers in the pic do I need to do a good job? What about number 12, o-rings? Getting factory parts. Also 15W fork oil, right?

Thanks,
Ken
 
Also I notice that I have some gear chatter in 5th gear only...I know about the problems with pitting on the gears...how hard and what is involved in changing these out?

Ken
 
kctrading said:
Becides 24 and 6 what part numbers in the pic do I need to do a good job? What about number 12, o-rings? Getting factory parts. Also 15W fork oil, right?

Thanks,
Ken
Click to expand...

You might get 15 & 16. My bolts were so tight I kinda wrecked the allan heads. Couldnt find them anywhere but Suzuki. I used 1 cup (8 oz) of 15 wt in each fork.
 
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