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Just replaced my Stator, am I screwing up ?

  • Thread starter Thread starter oldpara
  • Start date Start date
O

oldpara

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Well, I just finished replacing my stator in a 1980 550E.
The bike fired right up as usual but in checking the voltage off the stator I'm only reading around 12V, even at 3-4K. That's right off the stator, I'm bummed.
I checked my VO meter on the house AC and the probes had to be just right to read 121V, but it read right.
Maybe I'm not getting a decent connection/contact on the bike.
I'll try again later and have the wife throttle it up while I diddle with the meter.
Any thoughts ?
 
Well, I just finished replacing my stator in a 1980 550E.
The bike fired right up as usual but in checking the voltage off the stator I'm only reading around 12V, even at 3-4K. That's right off the stator, I'm bummed.
I checked my VO meter on the house AC and the probes had to be just right to read 121V, but it read right.
Maybe I'm not getting a decent connection/contact on the bike.
I'll try again later and have the wife throttle it up while I diddle with the meter.
Any thoughts ?
Without going thru your previous posts, did you do the charging tests and determined that your stator had failed. Is the replacement stator new, or used off ebay? You say "right off the stator"- AC or DC ? - I'm unsure of what you mean.
 
if he read 121 V on house wiring I suspect it is VAC, but like Kent said it could be a cheap meter and it will not read VAC at 300 Hz (3000 RPM)
 
I bought the meter at Auto Zone, it's a Inonova Equus 3320.
$28.00 unit.
The stator is new from Ricks, at least I assume it's new.
I did the tests on the old stator, per stator pages, Basscliff, failed two out of three tests.
The new stator was reading only about 12-13V AC. Hmmm, same as the old one......
Like I said I'm about to get the wife to throttle it up while I probe the bugger.
300Hz ? Oh good another "crap I wish I'd known that"
 
I checked the voltage again, same thing although I did get a 15.5V at about 4k, Oooo now I'm getting somewhere....
Asked my wife to turn the throttle, she asked which way, Ugh.
Anyway we got it done but doesn't look good.
What do I look for in a volt meter ? Could it be that simple/expensive (new stator, time, effort, cussing) ?
 
I checked the voltage again, same thing although I did get a 15.5V at about 4k, Oooo now I'm getting somewhere....
Asked my wife to turn the throttle, she asked which way, Ugh.
Anyway we got it done but doesn't look good.
What do I look for in a volt meter ? Could it be that simple/expensive (new stator, time, effort, cussing) ?
That's a decent meter- better than my $10 on sale Craftsman meter. But all these cheap meters are designed for AC voltages in the 60 cycle range and at 4k rpm your stator is in the 300 cycle range.What "doesn't look good" ? if you're getting 15.5 volts DC at 4k ( at battery), that's good ( a little high to my taste). What do you get at idle? Repeat the charging tests to find out if your R/R was responsible for your stator's demise.
 
I was checking the voltage directly off the stator.
Apparantly supposed to be getting 60VAC to the R/R and only getting 12-14VAC.
Am I confused about something ?
 
I was checking the voltage directly off the stator.
Apparantly supposed to be getting 60VAC to the R/R and only getting 12-14VAC.
Am I confused about something ?
So stator unplugged from R/R gives 12-14 VAC across any two stator wires? Yet, you're getting 15.5 VDC at battery at 4k rpm? Hmm, maybe I will stick with Sears meters or are you not using meter correctly?
And while I'm dropping questions on you- do you have a honda R/R from soon to be retiring Duaneage? sense wire into rear brake switch ? 15.5 volt is high , so maybe the sense wire ain't seeing the battery correctly.
 
So stator unplugged from R/R gives 12-14 VAC across any two stator wires? Yet, you're getting 15.5 VDC at battery at 4k rpm? Hmm, maybe I will stick with Sears meters or are you not using meter correctly?
And while I'm dropping questions on you- do you have a honda R/R from soon to be retiring Duaneage? sense wire into rear brake switch ? 15.5 volt is high , so maybe the sense wire ain't seeing the battery correctly.

starting to sound like it is not open loop
 
I was checking the voltage directly off the stator.
Apparantly supposed to be getting 60VAC to the R/R and only getting 12-14VAC.
Am I confused about something ?


You should be getting 80v AC on each pair of yellow stator wires at 5000 rpm. The R/R must be unplugged from the 3 yellow stator wires to do the test. Do you have your meter set to ACv600 for doing this test.

Stator AC output is linear to rpm. You should read 80v AC @5k rpm, or 40v AC @ 2500 rpm, or 20v AC at 1250 rpm.

Earl
 
Last edited:
Hi,

What do the passive tests show on your new stator? Are you testing the stator while it is totally disconnected from the r/r unit?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
tom203 said:
So stator unplugged from R/R gives 12-14 VAC across any two stator wires? Yet, you're getting 15.5 VDC at battery at 4k rpm?

I think he means the reading directly off the stator went up a bit to 15.5V on his second go.
 
I was checking the voltage directly off the stator.
Apparantly supposed to be getting 60VAC to the R/R and only getting 12-14VAC.
Am I confused about something ?

Yes you are. There is not supposed to be any voltage going to the R/R. It is supposed to be disconnected/unplugged from the stator when measuring the stator AC voltage output.

Earl
 
I bought the meter at Auto Zone, it's a Inonova Equus 3320.
$28.00 unit.
The stator is new from Ricks, at least I assume it's new.
I did the tests on the old stator, per stator pages, Basscliff, failed two out of three tests.
The new stator was reading only about 12-13V AC. Hmmm, same as the old one......
Like I said I'm about to get the wife to throttle it up while I probe the bugger.
300Hz ? Oh good another "crap I wish I'd known that"

Did a little research on you AutoZone meter and it is good to 400hz on AC volts but testing the stator for 80volts @ 5000 RPM it will need to handle 500hz so that test is out with that meter. Just short cut you?re testing and hook up the stator and test DC voltage at the battery. Just off idle you should have over 13volts and 14 to 15volts at 5000 RPM. If you fail these test just check you wire connectors and/or replace the regulator because after all the stator is new.

Or you get a better meter and fallow the stator papers, as they can be a useful resource.
 
Ah Ha, So what I'm reading is I should have the stator unplugged from the R/R to do the voltage tests ?
I will do a passive test again and check the voltage again with the stator unplugged from the r/r.
My meter has one AC volt position and one AC mA position.
You guys are great, I can't help feeling like I'm just bugging you with this stuff, and my own inexperiance.
I AM learning though with your help and it's really satisfying and kind of relaxing to do this repair work myself.
OK, I'm off to give it another shot.
meter2.jpg
 
Have you read though the Stator Papers yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfault.htm The instructions clearly say to disconnect the stator wires from the R/R before checking AC voltage.

Jim Posplayr has an updated stator testing method. I suggest you read though this before going much further so you clearly understand what to do at each stage of the testing.
 
I read the Stator papers but apparantly missed some vital info, I will re-read and read the updated papers also.
 
Hi,

There is a little stator test guide on my website. It should provide some visuals.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Thanks, all of you !
I'm re-reading everything and while I have the opportunity I'm going through the wiring again, rechecking and cleaning everything.
I'm also getting a new battery to be sure I eliminate that variable.
I'll let you all know how it works out.
 
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