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Just replaced R/R, still no spark, suspect sense wire

  • Thread starter Thread starter amontyg
  • Start date Start date
A

amontyg

Guest
I just finished replacing my R/R and I still have no spark when turning the engine over. It did start briefly, then died and won't spark again.

The reason I suspect the sense wire is because before hooking up the sense wire, after all other wires had been hooked up, I turned the engine over and tested visually for spark, and it seemed to work fine.

I installed the sense on the Orange/Green wire feeding in to the brake switch.

Any insights you have would be appreciated.
 
The R/R is for the charging system. If your bike is not sparking consistently that's related to the ignition system. Two completely separate systems. The only related elements are that your ignition system may not generate a proper spark if the battery is discharged. I'd make sure the battery is fully charged and then check spark again. After you get the engine running, then check charging system voltage (R/R function).

Good luck
 
If you remove the Stator, and the R/R completely, you will still have spark if there is a charged battery and no other problems. It makes sense to look at the systems that make spark if you don't have any. The R/R, sense wire, Stator, they are not included. They keep the battery charged. They don't make spark.
 
Ah, I was under the impression that the battery just turned the starter and the stator supplied the current to fire the plugs. I did jump the battery with my car, so barring the battery where should I turn next?
 
When you jumped the bike with the car, was the car running? I hope not or it's possible you've fried some components.
 
Hi,

All the "sense" wire does is monitor the system voltage. That's why it must be connected to a switched (gets voltage when the key is turned on) 12v source (i.e. the tail light - not the brake light).

What testing have you done? What electrical maintenance have you done?
GS Charging System Health+Quick Test
More On The Stator Papers
Regulator/Rectifier Diode Test
Cleaning Your Wiring Harness
Compatible Stators and R/Rs
Igniter/Signal Generator/Coil Test
Igniter Repair/Testing (2MB PDF)

HondaRRconnections.jpg


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
I have been soldering electrical connections all afternoon and am still only getting intermittent spark.

I have found a lot of corrosion and dirt in many of the connections; the only relevant ones still to solder are the ones coming to and from the Ignitor and points.

I have soldered the connections at the following:

1. From the ignition (key)
2 Starter switch (I also cleaned the contacts here as I am a big kill switch user)
3. At the coils to the wiring harness.
4. The connector in the wiring harness under the tank.

All connections from the battery and such have been freshened, I also just replaced the R/R with a Honda unit and soldered all connections to and from it as well.

I cleaned the battery terminal and connectors, I have also recently cleaned the switch In the clutch and brake handlebar.

There aren't many connectors left for me to cut off and solder and I am beginning to worry that my Ignitor or coils may be bad.

This was a perfectly running bike as of a week ago.

One suspicion that I have is with my ignition (Key). When the key is on the headlight comes on, but is it possible that the connection to the orange wire is not being made, given that the headlight is working?
 
Go to Bassliff's and review the ignition system tests- as was stated previously, the ignition system and charging system are seperate systems.
 
amontyg said:
2 Starter switch (I also cleaned the contacts here as I am a big kill switch user)
Click to expand...

Have you checked continuity through the killl switch? Some folks who use it a lot have said they fail after a while, apparently it is not really designed to be used as the on/off switch.
 
BassCliff said:
All the "sense" wire does is monitor the system voltage. That's why it must be connected to a switched (gets voltage when the key is turned on) 12v source (i.e. the tail light - not the brake light).
Click to expand...
Actually, the brake feed wire that he said he connected to is just as good (maybe even better) than the tail light wire.

.
 
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