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Kat EFI

A late update, I did this in December 22.

Well bugger me....

after 3 years it dawned on me that I had not dynamic checked the ignition timing (only static 71/2 teeth BTDC if I remember correctly), been COP and my timing light is inductive for conventional ignition leads.

So I thought how about.​

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And an adjustment from the centre punch dots been inline to this position ( an advance in ignition) resulted in a growlier much snappier acceleration, better late than never.

Did adjust timing in diagnostic mode ?? did see a big difference when it was cold... below 50 deg it was showing more advance, cold start mode.​

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I changed my clutch lever to a 2016 GSX-S1000 type for the easier adjuster, I get alot of cable stretch when in traffic.
I took the switch off.

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old,

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new,

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old

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new

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After limping home with another fraying clutch cable, I remembered that I still had 6 heavy springs in the clutch from when the frictions were worn (I have since replaced the frictions).
Now not wanting to open the clutch cover cause I am lazy and it is not leaking.
I decided to make a longer lever and offset mount.
You can buy them but Iam a tight arse.

Fraying clutch cable​

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longer lever about 20mm.

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added brace cause I was worried the side load might snap the original cast gearbox mount,

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side view threads are 8x1.25.

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cable holder is some nuts welded and a slot cut.

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All working fine since October 22, less handle travel so the new cable adjuster on the handlebar cops a work out.
 
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Merrily gazing at my bike when I should be doing other domestic stuff and I had a light bulb moment about my throttle body clamps.

The factory Bandit 1250 clamps at the TB have this spacer and I thought I wonder if it is restricting clamping effort and also allowing air in,

yes and yes.

Now I need to reset base idle, wonderful.



The offending spacer.
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Cheers.
 
Next plan of attack,

Now that my bike is a 'part time ride', the batteries do not hold/ maintain/ keep charge.

(I do mind fuck myself thinking one of the batteries is on the way out)

So thinking about saving power in peak hour/ bumper to bumper/ many street light stop start riding to work.

One of the modern features of using the 07 1250 wiring loom as apposed to the 82 kat wiring, the headlight is always on (except during cranking) so I lost the means to manually turn on/off the headlight.

So for start up/ idling at traffic lights, I thought I would put a relay with a switch to allow me to turn the headlight on/off when needed.

Naked ready for butchering.

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Turns out that little Oyek battery is coming up to 10 years old sitting under the bandit battery.

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Only recycled that Nokia last year
 
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