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Key is turned but no power

  • Thread starter Thread starter KnightRider
  • Start date Start date
K

KnightRider

Guest
[-o<Sombody Help me ,Please .
I just Got a 1982 GS650L Suzuki.Put Carb Kits in and got everything about right. Then today I went to the gas station to fill up, turned off my bike , filled up , went to start an NOTHING. I mean No Power to anything,Headlight,tail light , nothing.Pushd to the side i turned key on an banged my handlebars right and Woo Hoo I got Lights. Turned key off to put seat on an No I Have Nothing again . I Replaced the Ignition switch and had the 12 V fuse checked.ALL fuses are great.
Jumped it across the selinoid and it turns over. ANY Sugestions would Sure be Appretiated!
 
Hee Haw Howdy!

Hee Haw Howdy!

Hi Mr. KnightRider,

These kinds of electrical issues are the worst. You'll have to begin my checking and cleaning every connection and ground on your entire bike from the headlight bucket to the tail light. While you're doing that you can read your mega-welcome! \\:D/

Dear fellow GS rider,

Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)![FONT=Arial, sans-serif] [/FONT]
icon_biggrin.gif


Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr. And if your bike uses shims for valve adjustments, send an email to Mr. Steve requesting a copy of his Excel spreadsheet that helps you keep track of clearances, shim sizes and other service work.

These are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.
***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Carburetor maintenance:

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:
http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html
Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:
http://cycleorings.com/intake.html
You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com
Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:
http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm
***********************************
Every GS850 has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

These common issues are:

1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
***************************************
OEM Parts/Online Fiches:

I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.

Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:

http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************
Additional parts/info links:

GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php
http://www.electrosport.com/
For valve cover and breather cover gaskets, I recommend Real Gaskets (reusable silicon):
http://www.realgaskets.com
The Rice Paddy (salvage/used)
http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com
Carolina Cycle
http://www.carolinacycle.com
Ron Ayers Motorsports
http://www.ronayers.com
MR Cycles
http://www.mrcycles.com
Moto Grid
http://www.motogrid.com
If all else fails, try this:
http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/
Used bike buying checklists:
http://www.amadirectlink.com/roadride/Riderresc/checklist.asp
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html
Lots of good info/pictures here:
http://www.suzukicycles.org
http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Motorcycle_Wiki

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)
walmart_greeter2.jpg
 
Ya mine does the same 450...

Ya mine does the same 450...

I find if dive the front forks in i get power again.... I have to solder all the electrics properly :(
 
pull that headlight out and check the connections.... thats probably where its at
 
yep, sounds like either a grounding or intermitant short issue. check all over for melted wires and/or wiggle them with the ignition on and see if moving some in a specific area makes the lights come on.
 
TY TY ALL For Your Input and for Your Warm Welcomes =) .Ill do as Suggested and check EVERYTHING Lol . Tomorrow I will try to Take a Pic of Lil Moe
(Short for Lil Monster *ggles*) and Post HIM Here !
And TY ALL Again!
Ride Hard But Ride Safe
KNIGHTRIDER
 
harness at the steering head is a nice place to check as it is the only spot where the whole harnes is forced to fles repeatedly

it is also and are where the wires suffer a lot from heat especially at idle or in slow traffic what with the pipes being a fott or so below.

i did my entire harnes grounds and connections
a bit laborious but the only real way to prevent a nasty breakdown at a bad time

also you may prevent a far more serious problem which could result in a fire or ruined harness

get a cheap tester at rasio shack with a nice needle scale and continuity tester 15-20 bucks tops
 
Thanks again for ALL your Input ! I did as sugested and found that the fuse box that is suposed to be grounded bya nut and bolt was help by a zip tie =).Took a Dremel and the little steel brush attachment and cleaned all contacks ,Be easy with it use on slow,and also cleaned anywhere it bolted in > got power but no blinkers,horn,shift lights,checked the fuses and one was bad . Replaced and Now Woo LA YEA ! Everything is working. I Wish to Thank Each of YOU for Your Post and Suggestions!
Ride Hard But Ride SAFE !
KnightRider
 
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