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Killing Mosquitos - blue smoke

  • Thread starter Thread starter 1929fordtudor
  • Start date Start date
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1929fordtudor

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I was wondering if anyone had an idea as to why if I let my bike sit for a week or so when I start it it smokes for a couple of minutes. If I run it every other day or few days I don't have the smoke. I don't think it is fuel, I replaced the petcock, rebuilt the carbs, adjusted the floats, and adjusted and synced the carbs. The plugs do not look bad, but it seems to be oil, blue smoke not black. Thanks for the help.
 
Blue smoke is oil, and you probably have a bit of seepage past your valve seals, particularly on cylinders 1 and 2. If you're parking for an extended period of time, you can try parking it on the center stand to see if it gets better.
 
Thanks for the advice. I always park on the center stand, so I guess it is time for some valve seals. How daunting of a task is replacing the seals?
 
1929fordtudor said:
Thanks for the advice. I always park on the center stand, so I guess it is time for some valve seals. How daunting of a task is replacing the seals?
Click to expand...

The worst part is finding a valve compressor that will work on the GS head. I didn't want to spend $150 so I used my old overhead valve compressor. It was a struggle but I got it done. The seals are a little difficult to remove also, but will eventually come out. Ray
 
If you look on BassCliff's "little" site (you should really have that site bookmarked), you will see that there is a link to a cheaper tool that I made.
It's even a video to show you how to do it. I only show putting a valve back in, but the process works well.

Overall, you will need to have a top-end gasket kit, it will include valve seals.
Pull the valve cover and the head. (mandatory)
Pull the cylinders to change the base gasket (recommended)
Remove the valves to be able to get to the seals, keep the valves in the same place when you put it back together. I use a muffin tin for all the parts.
While the valves are out, use some lapping compound to make sure the seats are in good shape. (suggested)
Replace the seals, put the valves back in, put it all back together.
Check your valve clearances.
Put the carbs back on and sync them.
Enjoy your ride.

I am sure others will chime in to fill in some details that I left out. :o

.
 
Usually valve seals smoke when cold first thing in the morning.
Bad guides will drip oil into the cylinders after sitting.
 
I can testify Steve's tool (C-Clamp and pvc pipe) works, I used it.
 
Yep, once you know how to make the little PVC adapter, it does not take long to do.
It took a while to create it, but not long to duplicate it.

.
 
I made one from a wood clamp I got at harbor freight for 12 dollars. I added three screws to depress the spring and it was perfect.
 
Thanks for the great tips. I guess this is something I will probably do once winter comes. Of course here in San Antonio we don't have winter, but the calender says it comes.
The wife just got her license and I bought her a bike so we are enjoying riding together right now. I hate to tear her down at this point and lose precious riding time.
I will probably start buying a little at a time what I will need to do the job then tackle it.
If you were going to do this job, how far would you take it? In other words, what other things would you do if you tore it down this far?
 
I think Steve already mentioned that you should replace your base gasket, as there's a good chance you'll disturb it getting your head off anyway. It would be a shame to get it back together and then leak there. If you pull the cylinders to do that, you might as well check the rings (end gap, free end gap, etc.); also do a dry/wet compression test ahead of time to gauge their sealing condition. If you end up replacing the rings, you'll definitely want to hone the cylinders.

Per Chef's advice, check the valve guides, too. You could also have the valve seats re-ground. But if compression is good that hardly seems worth it to me. Particularly if you replace your head gasket with MLS type, have the head and cylinder block checked for warping and get them milled if necessary.

Hmmm, what else; rebuild the cam chain tensioner?

FWIW, I was talking with a co-worker about the work I did on my bike. I used an Athena gasket set from partsnmore.com, and he uses them on all of his Hondas and has been very happy. However - he says their valve seals are junk and will fail within 2 years (I didn't use the Athena valve seals with the kit). Might be best to stick with OEM for those. Of course, many here will advise you to stick to OEM for all gaskets. Pick your budget, take your chances...
 
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