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Laid the top coat, now what?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
Well, I got everything I needed for the paint job:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=153605

I've sprayed the top (i.e. base) coat today. I used a PPG paint but can't find the data sheet for it or the product code on the can (other than "Deltron BC D789" which seems to be the color code).

Have a few questions now:

How long before I can wet sand it?
What grit paper do I use?
How long before I can apply decals? The instructions that came with the decals say "wait at least 12 hours", but some paints can take longer than that to dry, I think.

Pics to follow :)
 
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Sweet!

Sweet!

Great job buddy!

I will look up the product sheet for you when I get to work this morning and post it here for you.

I can also look up the product sheet for the clearcoat too if you need it, what clear did you get?
 
Product sheets

Product sheets

Here are the product sheet links. Choose the one that you purchased, and go by the "tape time" if no sanding time is listed.

https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCatalog/SearchProducts.aspx?CategoryID=&Keyword=DBC

It looks like the average time to wait is between 40 minutes to an hour before you can wetsand. If it has been more than 24 hours though, you will need to recoat with base before clearcoating though.

Great work so far, best of luck, and of course we expect pics!
 
You don't normally sand the base coat, just hit it with clear as long there are no runs. Basecoats are typically thin and reflow some once the clear hits them. As already mentioned, you don't want to wait too long before clearing or the reflow (presumably) is affected.
 
Nice work so far!
She is going to look GREAT!!!
Don't forget those pictures. ;)

Eric :)
 
You can sand the base coat the next day, no problem. In fact you probably should sand it smooth before putting the decals on. Use 600, wet, then apply the decals. Let them set for a day, clean them with prep-sol or wax and grease remover, then clear coat right over them. Make sure the first couple of coats of clear are sprayed pretty dry to insure it doesn't eat into them. Follow that up with a couple of wet coats, then finish sand and polish if you want it to look as nice as it can. If it's PPG, the clear will be a 4-1-1 ratio.
 
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thanks guys. i'm doing this for the first time and have done a lots of reading and youtube tutorials. the base coat is nicely laid but there is dust particles sticking on a few surfaces (despite me rying to clean the "paint booth" thoroughly.
i'm super happy with the gun, it's just the right size for me for the parts of this size and i dont have to work to fast (which i wouldnt like).

though, some things i found confusing, i.e. the base coat can says you can clearcoat in 15min, but i have decals to appy first that need thoroughly dry base coat.

i think this is what i had in mind from all the reading but wanted to double-check at the forum here anyway:

nvr2old said:
You can sand the base coat the next day, no problem. In fact you probably should sand it smooth before putting the decals on. Use 600, wet, then apply the decals. Let them set for a day, clean them with prep-sol or wax and grease remover, then clear coat right over them. Make sure the first couple of coats of clear are sprayed pretty dry to insure it doesn't eat into them. Follow that up with a couple of wet coats, then finish sand and polish if you want it to look as nice as it can. If it's PPG, the clear will be a 4-1-1 ratio.
Click to expand...
 
Macguyver said:
Here are the product sheet links. Choose the one that you purchased, and go by the "tape time" if no sanding time is listed.

https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCatalog/SearchProducts.aspx?CategoryID=&Keyword=DBC
Click to expand...

thanks for this Mac, i've searched internet but could not find a data sheet for the product that i have. i guess as my paint is called simply "Deltron BC" with no other numbers (other than the color code), the "DBC" on that list would be the right data sheet?
 
Two possible ways to go (there are others no doubt): 1) hit the parts with two layers of clear, color sand with 600/1000, apply decals, spray more clear, 2) wait about one day for the base coat to dry, denib and color sand very lightly as need, apply decals, apply clear coat. I've done both ways and they work. The decals after clear give you more time since the clear should be applied the next day after base coat application (although many people wait longer without noticeable problems).
 
Additional links

Additional links

PPG has a couple clears that are 2:1, but most are 4:1. I wouldn't reduce it unless it states in the product sheets specifically to do so. PPG has a lot of different clears, so read the product sheet carefully.

Just in case you didn't get a product sheet with your clearcoat, here's a link for all of PPG's commercially available clearcoats, just choose the product line for the one you have.

https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProdu...=ff7db9c9-148c-467c-9492-e9427e7eea79&Keyword=

Great job so far! :clap:
I am eager to see the final results!
 
You sir, are correct.

You sir, are correct.

psyguy said:
thanks for this Mac, i've searched internet but could not find a data sheet for the product that i have. i guess as my paint is called simply "Deltron BC" with no other numbers (other than the color code), the "DBC" on that list would be the right data sheet?
Click to expand...

Yep, that's the one.

I was talking with one of our customers who uses DBC for airbrushing, and he said he has no problems leaving a tank "open" without clear for a week, so you should be good for timeframe.

I have applied decals a couple hours after basecoating, and sealed the surface with a few coats of clear right after, so it is pretty forgiving as long as you keep things clean. Oh, also make sure to gently wipe off the basecoat with a tack rag before clearcoating to remove any dust which may have settled on the tank in the interim.

Keep us updated with a few pics of the completed work so we can all admire the fresh coat of Hotness!
 
those data sheets always make it sound like you'll absolutely ruin everything unless you stick to evyr word and time limits. hope this is not exactly the case :-\\\


one more question please. looking at my work in the sunlight today, i notice the base coat is fully gloss in most places but in some places it appears semi-gloss (satin). is this a problem and does it indicate anything? like that i may have applied insufficient thickness or wet-ness?
 
Not a problem per-se.

Not a problem per-se.

It simply means that there are some spots that got a bit "wetted" with some overspray when they were drying. There shouldn't be any adhesion problem, but I would likely give the whole tank a final "control coat" to make sure the color is evenly distributed.

Hold the gun back another 6-8 inches away from the part and in a smooth motion, "dust" the tank with paint to give it a uniform look.

The paint should be almost dry when it hits the tank, this means that the "front end" reducer is almost completely evaporated out of the paint, and the "tail end" solvent will be melting the atomized paint into the previous coat.

Your arm motion should be relatively quick, maybe around 1 foot per second, depending on the size of the tip in the gun. Treat it like it is the first light "tack coat" you put on the tank. We aren't looking saturate the area with paint, just make it uniform.

Don't worry about messing anything up, the control coat is not even manditory unless you are spraying metallics, I'm just picky.

Hope this helps,
 
Alot of good info in here. If you have enough clear, I would sandwich the decals between layers of clear as mentioned a few post back.

If the decals is applied before, you could have no issues what so ever but at the same time it could trap some solvents and cause issues. If you clear before the decals, you can let it sit for 24 hours sand in down with 800 as stated before then proceed with the decals and clear again.
 
i have scuffed the parts with 600 wet. how far do i need to go with sanding back?
the surface is not perfectly uniform in apperance now (some small areas have more shine than the rest of the surfaces).
is this ok and is the clearcoat going to bring back the uniform shiny look?

wouldn't want to mess up something now after all this work and expense :o

once the decals go up there's no going back i'm afraid :o
 
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psyguy said:
i have scuffed the parts with 600 wet. how far do i need to go with sanding back?
the surface is not perfectly uniform in apperance now (some small areas have more shine that the rest of the surfaces).
Click to expand...

You should have the surface looking fairly uniform from the sanding. If wetsanding any of a part, I prefer to spend the extra few seconds and give the whole basecoated area a light scuff just for this reason. The part should look pretty much the same color/texture from any angle to make sure the paint color will look uniform from every angle when clearcoated.

Also, grab the brightest light you have, and look closely at the basecoat layer, make sure it has no light areas in it where you can see hinting of the primer underneath. If so, just give it a quick control coat over the area to get uniform color coverage.

You have the hard part mostly behind you now, so keep at it and I am sure the results will look great!

Keep up the great attention to detail!
 
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