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fivestring
Guest
I would like to know if there is an 18" wheel I could put on my '82 1100G. First gear seems "short" and I travel 80 miles per trip to work and could use a little less rpms at 70mph.
Thanks
Thanks
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Steve
GS Whisperer
Don't know of any 18" wheels that would fit, and it would not change your engine speed much, anyway.
About the only thing you could do (easily) to change engine speed would be to get a final drive from an '83 or newer 1100. That is a 2.91 ratio, all the other bikes are a 3.09. Keep in mind that it will only drop your engine speed about 250 rpm at 70 mph.
On other bikes that use different wheel sizes (comparing a G to a GL, for instance), the 16-inch wheel on the GL only adds about 175 rpm compared to the 17-inch wheel of the G. I think that if you were to find an 18-inch wheel, you would probably see the same drop.
By the way, there is nothing wrong with the engine speed you see at 70 mph. It just happens to fit in a very good range for power and economy. If you were to drop about 400 rpm by combining the 18-inch wheel (if you could find one) and the newer final drive, you might find that you will have to add more throttle than usual to make it over bridges on the freeway, and will probably have to downshift to pass, when necessary. All that extra throttle and downshifting will likely offset any fuel savings seen by a lower engine speed. These engines are designed to last, don't worry about spinning along at a measly 4000 rpm on the highway.
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About the only thing you could do (easily) to change engine speed would be to get a final drive from an '83 or newer 1100. That is a 2.91 ratio, all the other bikes are a 3.09. Keep in mind that it will only drop your engine speed about 250 rpm at 70 mph.
On other bikes that use different wheel sizes (comparing a G to a GL, for instance), the 16-inch wheel on the GL only adds about 175 rpm compared to the 17-inch wheel of the G. I think that if you were to find an 18-inch wheel, you would probably see the same drop.
By the way, there is nothing wrong with the engine speed you see at 70 mph. It just happens to fit in a very good range for power and economy. If you were to drop about 400 rpm by combining the 18-inch wheel (if you could find one) and the newer final drive, you might find that you will have to add more throttle than usual to make it over bridges on the freeway, and will probably have to downshift to pass, when necessary. All that extra throttle and downshifting will likely offset any fuel savings seen by a lower engine speed. These engines are designed to last, don't worry about spinning along at a measly 4000 rpm on the highway.
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F
fivestring
Guest
Great answer, Steve. Thanks bunches.
I had the thought stuck in my head that these early '80's bikes were geared for 55 mph and are slightly over revved at the current speed limits. It's good to know I'm still in the engine's comfort zone.
And yes, fuel economy is a large factor on a 300+ mile weekly commute.
I had the thought stuck in my head that these early '80's bikes were geared for 55 mph and are slightly over revved at the current speed limits. It's good to know I'm still in the engine's comfort zone.
And yes, fuel economy is a large factor on a 300+ mile weekly commute.
Steve
GS Whisperer
The "comfort zone" would be any engine speed that is not displayed with a red background.
Be happy that you don't have an 850, then, or you would be seeing stuff like this:
My wife took that picture over my shoulder (at my request
).
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LarryJ
Guest
The 1100's have plenty of torque. I'd like to cruise at a little lower rpm too, with my '82 1100GK.
I already have a 17" rear wheel that I'll be using on my next rear tire change. That'll also bring the GK up to G chassis spec & should help handling.
I would also pick up an '83 or newer final drive, for a further drop, if I find one being parted.
It's more for reducing my fatigue on long rides than any slight economy advantage..less noise, less vibs, etc.
I already have a 17" rear wheel that I'll be using on my next rear tire change. That'll also bring the GK up to G chassis spec & should help handling.
I would also pick up an '83 or newer final drive, for a further drop, if I find one being parted.
It's more for reducing my fatigue on long rides than any slight economy advantage..less noise, less vibs, etc.
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bbjumper
Guest
Fivestring, no need to go to a larger rear wheel. you can change the final drive like a previous member has done and get the revs down significantly. I dont't know the particulars but see the photo.
This is an 81 GS1000G, from what I have been told it can be done for less than 300 bucks.
This is an 81 GS1000G, from what I have been told it can be done for less than 300 bucks.
