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LED signals won't flash with LED flasher

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Tonight I finished installing LED turn signals on my 1100E. I did the rears a couple of weeks ago and finally got time to do the fronts tonight. After some swearing at the front running light wiring arrangement I have that sorted and the signals connected properly and working. But they won't flash, they just come on and stay on as is common with the original flasher unit. Anticipating that, I bought an LED flasher unit when I bought the signal lights. So I installed it and...nothing. I had to reverse polarity of the +/- plugs on the harness side but that was no problem with the style of plug Suzuki used. I have tried both the original polarity and reversed and neither one works. The lights don't light up at all with the LED flasher installed.

Is there an easy way to test the flasher to be certain it is functioning? I thought I have seen a car flasher used by some with LED signals (maybe a Ford model?), does anyone have the details on that so I can go to CT and pick one up to try? Or do I just need to ask for a 3 prong electronic flasher unit?


Thanks,
Mark
 
Welcome to the "fun" of wiring LED signals to your bike.

Usually, the problem is that they will turn on, but won't flash. Can't say for sure what your problem is, but please be aware that even if you do get them to work, your auto-cancel feature will not work. That third pin in the flasher socket is NOT a ground (that might be your problem), it comes from the Turn Signal Control Unit and tells the flasher whether it should flash or not.

.
 
I have been thinking about going the way you are.
I was under the impression you no longer needed load resistors with the LED flasher unit.

I am not very good with electronics.

Somebody else will chime in with either easier instructions or with any mistakes I may have made.

All flashers that I have heard when in operation make a click sound when flashing.
I do not feel like taking off my tank right now but I am thinking that the flasher unit is connected to the hot wire in the harness for the signals?
Hot to flasher unit then to switch controlling which side to light and from there to ground.
Is that how that works?

I made a barn alarm with a circuit hot at battery to a flasher relay to a horn to a light to a spring switch and back to battery at ground without burning anything up so the following advice should help you troubleshoot without causing any damage.
Should being the key word here as I am unfamiliar with LED flasher units or lights.


A - -Keep the hot wire in the harness connected and make a good ground coming off the other flasher pin, flick switch.
click...click...click...? if not hearing go to step 1 if you hear it clicking go to step 2

1 If not keep the ground you made connected to the pin and run a hot off the battery to the other.
click...click...click...? If not possible bad flasher unit.

2 If (A) works add one light not hooked up to harness into the equation by hooking to your made ground.
Still working with a flash?

If so you will need to go through your wiring to find the problem paying most attention to grounds and then from there back.

If it stopped working with the addition of the light I would be thinking load resistors.

In no way am I a expert or anything.
That is just what I would do if faced with your problem.
 
I see while I was thinking and typing this up others have chimed in.
Three prongs with one going to turn signal control unit?
Bike is set up different from mine.
Should have known as I have read about the canceling feature on some of the GS bikes.
With your flashers not working before this mod I would suspect he is correct to the problem being at the control unit.
 
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Steve said:
Welcome to the "fun" of wiring LED signals to your bike.

Usually, the problem is that they will turn on, but won't flash. Can't say for sure what your problem is, but please be aware that even if you do get them to work, your auto-cancel feature will not work. That third pin in the flasher socket is NOT a ground (that might be your problem), it comes from the Turn Signal Control Unit and tells the flasher whether it should flash or not.

.
Click to expand...
General reminder on the TSCU mod. I might be doing some more PCBs in the not too distant future. Would like to know how it goes.
 
How about you start by giving us the flasher you're using. It would be helpful to know if it was a three prong or two prong and how the manufacture of the flasher intends it to work. I have a three prong on mine and I had to ground the third leg for it to work. This wire originally went to the turn signal cancel unit.
 
posplayr said:
General reminder on the TSCU mod. I might be doing some more PCBs in the not too distant future. Would like to know how it goes.
Click to expand...

Progress has been slower than anticipated, Jim. I was painting up the battery box and preparing a couple of "surprises" last night, getting ready to do some wiring.

.
 
Steve said:
Progress has been slower than anticipated, Jim. I was painting up the battery box and preparing a couple of "surprises" last night, getting ready to do some wiring.

.
Click to expand...

No rush ; I know how it goes. :)
 
cowboyup3371 said:
Is each light properly grounded?
Click to expand...

Yes. I have them plugged directly into the ground plug in the harness. They light properly, just won't flash with the OEM flasher unit which was expected. The problem is the replacement LED flasher I bought does not work at all, which was not expected.


Steve said:
Can't say for sure what your problem is, but please be aware that even if you do get them to work, your auto-cancel feature will not work. That third pin in the flasher socket is NOT a ground (that might be your problem), it comes from the Turn Signal Control Unit and tells the flasher whether it should flash or not..
Click to expand...

I am fine with the auto-cancel not working, it never has since I have owned the bike. I didn't screw with anything in the harness, just plugged the LED flasher unit into the exact same plug that the OEM flasher was plugged into. I had to reverse the +/- wires in the plug to match the new flasher, but the third wire (orange w/green tracer) is exactly as it was from Suzuki.


81GS850 said:
How about you start by giving us the flasher you're using. It would be helpful to know if it was a three prong or two prong and how the manufacture of the flasher intends it to work. I have a three prong on mine and I had to ground the third leg for it to work. This wire originally went to the turn signal cancel unit.
Click to expand...

Fair enough. It is this unit: http://www.dx.com/p/sencart-car-con...for-led-dc10-14v-0-02-20a-245406#.VBCIgvldWFU

No instructions, just the labeling on the 3 prongs as shown in the pics. You cut the signal wire from the turn signal unit and grounded it instead? That is something I can try out this weekend, thanks.


If anyone cares, these are the signal lights I bought: http://www.dx.com/p/jlt-020-waterpr...n-signals-light-12v-4-pcs-304278#.VBCK6vldWFU

They are bright enough to easily be seen in direct sunlight, seem well made and are not at all flimsy like a lot of the LED signals I have seen/handled.


Mark
 
mmattockx said:
I am fine with the auto-cancel not working, it never has since I have owned the bike. I didn't screw with anything in the harness, just plugged the LED flasher unit into the exact same plug that the OEM flasher was plugged into. I had to reverse the +/- wires in the plug to match the new flasher, but the third wire (orange w/green tracer) is exactly as it was from Suzuki.
Click to expand...

I think that is your problem. The third wire (orange/green) is not a ground wire. The LED flasher is basically just a timer circuit with intermittent output. It needs a power wire and a ground wire to power the timer, and an output wire that goes to the signals. If you cut your orange/green wire and re-route it to a ground point, I think your flasher will probably work.

.
 
mmattockx said:
Fair enough. It is this unit: http://www.dx.com/p/sencart-car-con...for-led-dc10-14v-0-02-20a-245406#.VBCIgvldWFU

No instructions, just the labeling on the 3 prongs as shown in the pics. You cut the signal wire from the turn signal unit and grounded it instead? That is something I can try out this weekend, thanks.



Mark
Click to expand...


On the standard LED flashers, Pretty sure the "L" pin needs to be grounded for the flasher to work.

Also make sure you have swapped to a Series R/R before running with LED's. You will put more stress on the charging system.
 
Steve said:
I think that is your problem. The third wire (orange/green) is not a ground wire. The LED flasher is basically just a timer circuit with intermittent output. It needs a power wire and a ground wire to power the timer, and an output wire that goes to the signals. If you cut your orange/green wire and re-route it to a ground point, I think your flasher will probably work.
Click to expand...

Excellent. I will make up a test lead to see if grounding the L pin sorts it out.


posplayr said:
Also make sure you have swapped to a Series R/R before running with LED's. You will put more stress on the charging system.
Click to expand...

I have an SH-775 on order, should be here any day. I will be installing that before the bike goes back on the road with the LED's.


Thanks to all for their help,
Mark
 
posplayr said:
On the standard LED flashers, Pretty sure the "L" pin needs to be grounded for the flasher to work.
Click to expand...
Before you ground out the "L" pin, check to see what the others are. :-k

I have seen pins labelled B, L and G or E. Think of them as Battery, Load and Ground or Earth.
Battery should connect to your power source.
Load should be routed to the turn signal switch
G (E) should be your ground.

.
 
Yes ; I looked again and that is probably it. As I recall the stock three prog is properly configued just needs the ground applied properly to the e-. I did that in the harness so no other cuts required.

Actually here is the schematic

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...d-TSCU-MOD-for-LED-Conversions&highlight=TSCU

TSCU_MOD_LEDS_zps8524e59a.jpg
 
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If your TSCU doesn't work, just cut the plug off and leave some wire left. Attach the black/blue (on my bike) to the ground in the harness. That way you don't have to add splices or anything and it can quickly be put back to stock. Just look at your wiring diagram and the wire that goes from the flasher to the TSCU cut that and route it to the ground coming from your harness into the TSCU harness. Then cover the bare ends so you don't have live wires hanging out.
 
81GS850 said:
If your TSCU doesn't work, just cut the plug off and leave some wire left. Attach the black/blue (on my bike) to the ground in the harness. That way you don't have to add splices or anything and it can quickly be put back to stock. Just look at your wiring diagram and the wire that goes from the flasher to the TSCU cut that and route it to the ground coming from your harness into the TSCU harness. Then cover the bare ends so you don't have live wires hanging out.
Click to expand...

How do you put back to stock after cutting off the TSCU plug?

The only thing necessary for flashing (without TSCU) is to ground the B/Bl to the flasher(3 prong) or use a two prong flasher.
 
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Just registered because I am having this exact same problem, but my tscu wasn't even on the bike when I bought it, not to mention the wiring the previous owner did is a complete mess. Gonna try a two connection solution in a few minutes cause grounding the B/Bl wire from the flasher socket made the lights stop working completely.
 
popzeus said:
Just registered because I am having this exact same problem, but my tscu wasn't even on the bike when I bought it, not to mention the wiring the previous owner did is a complete mess. Gonna try a two connection solution in a few minutes cause grounding the B/Bl wire from the flasher socket made the lights stop working completely.
Click to expand...
Grounding the b/bl is the solution for standard aftermarket flashers. The original oem gs flashers require the b/bl to be pulled to +12v

that difference in polarity is why the TSCU mod is nesessary when going to newer led compatiable flashers while retaining auto cancel.
 
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