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LED tailight/turn signal combo plus front turn lights install. Resistor wiring?

  • Thread starter Thread starter NateTheNewb
  • Start date Start date
N

NateTheNewb

Guest
Hey everyone,

So I'm installing the title listed add ons to my GS650, I imagine the lights I've ordered will be sent with recommended resistors for the job, but I think it's always smart to consult with the veterans on here first :).

It seems a 6ohm 50 watt is about standard for most. is there any important info I should have about the sort of current that I'm working with from the stock wiring? Will each line to the front signals need in line resistors or are there tricks to avoid having to hide all the necessary components?

Just asking all the dumb questions before I fry my bike...:-s

Thanks for any knowledge, it's always appreciated.

Nate
 
When you install load-compensation resistors in the turn signal lines, you only need to do one per side, so you will need a total of TWO resistors. You can install them front, rear or middle. The important thing is that they are installed from the 'hot' line that feeds the signals to ground, not in-line with the 'hot' lead to the signal.

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Thanks again Steve. So I'm out of town without my bike or my mechanics manual, but so I understand, as with any current there's ground and power. So you're saying to have an inline resistor installed on the ground side of things? Or is there something peculiar about how the signals are wired?
 
Stock turn signal flashers need to have a certain amount of current flowing through them, as they are thermal devices. That "certain amount of current" heats a bi-metallic strip to alternately make and break the connection, generating the flash.

LEDs do not use that much current, so you need to add a resistor to simulate an incandescent bulb. Basically, you install it as if it were a third signal bulb.

If you are playing with individual LEDs from an electronics shop, trying to adapt them to vehicle use, you will need a different resistor to limit the current available to the LED. LEDs are low-resistance devices, so will try to pass a large amount of current. They can not handle the current that will be available, so an in-line resistor is necessary to limit it.

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You MAY be talking about the resistors that are incorporated into the leds themselves, for the purpose of dropping voltage to the proper point to illuminate the leds without blowing them up??

They are usually included inside the lights.

one example is a standalone led you can get from ebay for 12v, but it is really a 3v biased led, so they include an inline resistor.

If this is not what you were referring to, but rather a LOAD inducing resistor to make the turn signals blike properly, I will say THIS:
LOAD inducing resistors are the same as strapping a toaster onto your bike.

It would make more sense to install a proper electronic flasher, available for 5 -10 bucks that will flash no matter what the load on it.
 
barnbiketom said:
..., but rather a LOAD inducing resistor to make the turn signals blike properly, I will say THIS:
LOAD inducing resistors are the same as strapping a toaster onto your bike.

It would make more sense to install a proper electronic flasher, available for 5 -10 bucks that will flash no matter what the load on it.
Click to expand...
Yes, although the current going through those resistors is intermittent and infrequent, they do get considerably more than "comfortably warm". :eek:

In "theNewb's" case, a 'proper' flasher would work quite well. About the only time that the load resistors make better sense is if you want to keep your self-cancelling signals, which he does not have on his bike. :o

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no resistors needed but you will need an electronic flasher
 
...to intermittently cut the signal so it flashes? On all three or just front and rear? Or could there be just one on the right line somewhere near the headlight?
 
just replace the stock flasher with an electronic one.. the turn signal switch routs the current to left or right turns.

the running light will need nothing to work.. it is rated for 12v as is.
 
let us know how it works!! I get flashers at Autozone or advance . they should be under 12 bucks i think.

they have two prong electronic which should work, but if you really want something that will work on any combination of bulbs/leds/all leds... etc. then try the 3 prong one. you will need to REWIRE your harness plug.. and one of the prongs on the flasher will go to a good chassis ground or bat - (minus)
 
NateTheNewb said:
Alright, so here's the exact parts I'm waiting on, just to get a real good idea as to what I should expect...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181046029084?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

this one is not the exact, but something very similar...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-Motorcy...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2577edd27e&vxp=mtr

Thanks for the expertise...:D
Click to expand...

The tail light looks OK, no problems with that at all. It is already set up for tail and brake lights, and also has white illumination for the license plate.
icon_thumbsup.gif


The turn signals are are "sorta" OK. They are dual-intensity, which is not necessary on the rear, unless you have RED signals on the rear. If you have red signals on the rear, you can wire the low-intensity lead to your tail lights and the high-intensity to your signals. That will give you three points of light (tail light and two signal lights) at the rear, making it easier to see you at night. Your brake lights will remain in the tail light assembly, just like stock, unless you get a trailer adapter and wire your signals into that.

If you are using those same signals at the front, make sure you use amber ones, connect the low-intensity wire to the spare brown wire in the headlight bucket, then connect the high-intensity wire to the signal wires, just like stock.

NOW, don't be surprised if nobody sees your signals, especially in daytime. Those things are only 1/2 inch across. :eek:
If your state has any kind of inspection program for vehicles, there is a pretty good chance that those will not pass. :-s

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Steve, great info, thanks a lot! The rear taillight that I have, although for some reason I couldn't find the exact ad, is a combo light with integrated turn signals, the small ones will be the front, and yea, they're amber. I'll have to look closely at my wiring diagram to locate the spare low intensity wire and all. I'll be getting into those as soon as I put my carbs back together and get the bike running again, hopefully by the middle of the week.

My biggest question about wiring is the flasher. What's this device look like that I have to wire in so that my flashers in fact, flash? Haha!

Nevermind, barn biker gave me an idea where to buy um.
Thanks again, Nate
 
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NateTheNewb said:
Alright, so here's the exact parts I'm waiting on, just to get a real good idea as to what I should expect...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181046029084?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

this one is not the exact, but something very similar...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-Motorcy...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2577edd27e&vxp=mtr

Thanks for the expertise...:D
Click to expand...

Hey when you get these, would you post up a review, or at least some comments on just how bright they actually are?

I got Custom Dynamics 1157 replacement LED boards for my "other" bike ... they look like the brakes are on as running lights, and they are REALLY bright when I tap the brakes.

Now Tanner is looking for LED turn signals for his project...and it's very difficult to figure out which LEDs are actually bright, and which ones merely SAY they're bright.
 
@basket case. I'll let you know what I think of them as soon as I get um on. It may be a bit, I'm gonna be fabricating some things to mount the taillight o so it may be a bit. The tailight ad is not the exact one that I have. I'll try and find it for your reference.
 
barnbiketom said:
just replace the stock flasher with an electronic one.. the turn signal switch routs the current to left or right turns.
Click to expand...

So on the wiring diagram, relay and flasher would be the same thing? Why is it that the stock one wouldn't work exactly, it response to the heat of the wire or something like that? :-s
 
Alright, so I've got all my lights working, just no flash. So the consensus is that I can replace the stock, Nippondenso relay that I see with an electronic flasher from Knecht's? Is this all correct?

If so...what is the difference? Just that it's electronic? How does the factory relay work then? Is 2 prong going to be okay?

20 questions huh?

Thanks for any input

Nate
 
nate, off the top of my head, (and it's been awhile since I've needed to know)..per the "electronic flashers, I recall (not having one in front of me) they used a large capacitor(to alternate on/off) across relay electro-magnets and these electromagnets are wound with small wire. When the relay closed, the capacitor would also be "dumped" and the recharge of them would be the interval...(something like that anyways.)but for sure the power needed to run them is much reduced. because the actual power through the lights gose through the reed contacts and not the turnsignal switch.It's more elaborate,if they are actually "transistorized" ...
The two prong units just use current of the turn- signal bulbs to heat a bimetal strip that bends when hot to go off, then, being off, it cools to go back on click-click, click-click!-you can see that the bimetal two-pronger is going to need loads of current to work...LEDS won't likely use enough current to heat it.

Per LED brightness, you need look up MCD which are "micro candlepower"...thousands, right? drop the zeros so it looks like Candle-power....and you should have a comparison with your incandescents...of course, you will have Several leds instead of one bulb...look also at the directionality of these which is part of their specs. LEDS are very focussed and directional so reflectors do less, and the fresnel is important.

Hopefully, I'm not leading you to far astray with my brain shavings some of which was mentioned before
 
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NateTheNewb said:
Alright, so I've got all my lights working, just no flash. So the consensus is that I can replace the stock, Nippondenso relay that I see with an electronic flasher from Knecht's? Is this all correct?

If so...what is the difference? Just that it's electronic? How does the factory relay work then? Is 2 prong going to be okay?

20 questions huh?

Thanks for any input

Nate
Click to expand...

have a look here...

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=196017&highlight=relay

and here

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1737534&postcount=10

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