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LED Turn Signals

  • Thread starter Thread starter stain
  • Start date Start date
S

stain

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I am attempting to replace my stock turn signals with smaller LED units. As many of you may know the flasher won't work with the lower resistance LED units. I measured the old turn signals resistance @ 1.5 ohms and purchased 4 2ohm resistors. Still no flasher operation. I know there are special boxes made for this application[ $40-$80] but I am looking for a cheaper route. Do I use a higher resistor? Is there a flasher built for this?
 
Just go to any auto parts store and buy an electronic flasher. The operating range is usually printed on the flasher. About 8-10$ if I remember correctly.

E.
 
Hmmmm, installed electronic flasher and now I have no power to the turn signals. Not geting through the flasher, weird. Maybe I do need that special box? I hope not, wiil try to figure a way around it.
 
stain said:
Hmmmm, installed electronic flasher and now I have no power to the turn signals. Not geting through the flasher, weird. Maybe I do need that special box? I hope not, wiil try to figure a way around it.
Click to expand...

I would check that the circuits were wired correctly by connecting a standard turn signal bulb. If they work with the bulb, my guess would be the LED's dont draw enough wattage to trip the flasher. What trip wattage flasher did you get? Turn signal elements/bulbs are 23 watt. As a rule of thumb, LED's will consume aprox 10%, so you will need a flasher (probably) with a 2 watt or less, trip load.

Earl
 
You replaced the the stock flasher with a another two-terminal flasher correct? Get a three terminal flasher so you can ground it.
A thermal flasher (like the one you took out) works off of load. The electronic flasher is nothing more than a timer. It requires a ground to work properly.

Btw, when you do get it working, it'll blink too fast. Here's how to fix it
 
My stock signals do work. Could I use a 20 watt/ 10ohm resistor in each signal circuit? The flasher I got dosen't specify the trip wattage, maybe I need to get a better quality flasher.
My stock flasher is a 3 pin unit as is my replacement electronic unit, a stant ep35.
Thanx all for the help, hope I'm not wearing you out on this subject.
 
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stain said:
My stock signals do work. Could I use a 20 watt/ 10ohm resistor in each signal circuit? The flasher I got dosen't specify the trip wattage, maybe I need to get a better quality flasher.
My stock flasher is a 3 pin unit as is my replacement electrnic unit
Thanx all for the help, hope I'm not wearing you out on this subject.
Click to expand...

You don't need to use resistors.
Are you sure you're using the correct flasher?
Does it work with the stock incandesent bulbs?
Do the signals stay on, or do they not glow at all?
 
Yes the stock bulbs work, I keep hooking them back up to make the system still operates properly.
With the stock flasher the led will come on but not blink, with the electrnic flasher they wont even come on. Maybe I do have the wrong flasher?
 
stain said:
Yes the stock bulbs work, I keep hooking them back up to make the system still operates properly.
With the stock flasher the led will come on but not blink, with the electrnic flasher they wont even come on. Maybe I do have the wrong flasher?
Click to expand...

Ahh, I had this happen too. Find out which two pins are positive. You may have to reverse those pins. (use a jumper to test it, or take the connectors out of the plug and swap 'em)
I think I'm using the same stant EP35 flasher you are.
 
Do you mean swap the 2 pins that have power? HMMMMM I'l go out and try it right now
 
stain said:
Do you mean swap the 2 pins that have power? HMMMMM I'l go out and try it right now
Click to expand...

Yes.
There is a diode in the electronic flasher so you can't reverse the polarity and destroy the timer.
 
80GS1000 said:
http://www.plasmaled.com/tail_light_led_bulb_fix.htm
Click to expand...

One of the benefits of using an electronic flasher and led's is that they require less power to run. If you use a resistor, you're only adding more load to trick the flasher. If you eliminate the lamp failure detector circuit, you won't have to use resistors. You get less load on an already weak (by todays standards) charging system.

Check this out. http://www.mesa4x4.com/tech_articles/flasher/flasher.html
 
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stain said:
Swapped the two positive pins, still no flasher.
Click to expand...

Did you use the old flasher to determine which two pins are hot, or the new one? You'll have to use the old one to be sure.
Is the fuse still good?
Third pin is ground, correct? Is it actually gounded?
 
I used the old flasher to ck for B+
I am assuming that the circuit is grounded knowing that the old signals work but I havent checked with a multi meter. Could this new flasher be NFG?
 
stain said:
I used the old flasher to ck for B+
I am assuming that the circuit is grounded knowing that the old signals work but I havent checked with a multi meter. Could this new flasher be NFG?
Click to expand...


Could be... It doesn't work with the stock bulbs either, correct?
 
Just checked----the new flasher does NOT work with stock bulbs, BUT I also checked the third pin and that is NOT grounded. I am going to jump it to ground and ck it
 
stain said:
Just checked----the new flasher does NOT work with stock bulbs, BUT I also checked the third pin and that is NOT grounded. I am going to jump it to ground and ck it
Click to expand...

Make sure there's no voltage to that third pin first.

(And don't fry anything! I won't be able to sleep tonight if I know I fried your harness from a 1,000 miles away):-D
 
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