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Left Carb leaking :(

  • Thread starter Thread starter mortation
  • Start date Start date
M

mortation

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Left carb is leaking. I took the airbox off put the fuel on pri and watched it drip out into what would have been the airbox had I not removed it. Damn :( I don't have time to rebuild all four carbs right now. Anyone got a rebuilt rack they wanna swap me for(and some green of course)?

Or does anyone have some idea how to shape it up without major surgery?
 
just pull the left float bowl....

just pull the left float bowl....

and replace the valve. It's easy to get the outboard ones off without removing the carb rack.
 
tkent02 said:
and replace the valve. It's easy to get the outboard ones off without removing the carb rack.
Click to expand...

Carb Rebuild Kit. Includes: Float Bowl Gasket, O-Rings, Float Needle & Seat

Says nothing about a valve, to which valve are you referring (I dont have my Clymers yet)
 
You can buy new ones without the entire rebuild kit....

You can buy new ones without the entire rebuild kit....

mortation said:
Float Needle & Seat
Click to expand...

Think it's $10 or $12 or so.

You might not need any parts, just get your old one unstuck.
 
tkent02 said:
Think it's $10 or $12 or so.

You might not need any parts, just get your old one unstuck.
Click to expand...

Its only $15 for the whole kit at oldbikebarn. I guess I really dont have much choice. Alot going on right now but I guess it shouldnt take me tooooo long to rebuild four carbs.
 
mortation said:
Its only $15 for the whole kit at oldbikebarn. I guess I really dont have much choice. Alot going on right now but I guess it shouldnt take me tooooo long to rebuild four carbs.
Click to expand...
You dont have to rebuild just replace the needle valve, needle valve seat and 0-ring. Just take the bowl off and the float.Then pull on the needle vale seat and it will come out.i would take the carbs off and do all four.It's easy and wil take about 30 minutes to do.i just got done doing mine and no more leaks.
 
tconroy said:
You dont have to rebuild just replace the needle valve, needle valve seat and 0-ring. Just take the bowl off and the float.Then pull on the needle vale seat and it will come out.i would take the carbs off and do all four.It's easy and wil take about 30 minutes to do.i just got done doing mine and no more leaks.
Click to expand...

Well, thats all the parts in the rebuild kit and I just ordered 4 so thats the plan :) Hope it only takes me 30 minutes minus the polishing time :)
 
mortation said:
Well, thats all the parts in the rebuild kit and I just ordered 4 so thats the plan :) Hope it only takes me 30 minutes minus the polishing time :)
Click to expand...
Do yourself a favor and go to ace hardware and replace those phillips head screws with allen heads.Also look to see where your slides are set. This would be a Good time for a bench sync.
 
tconroy said:
Do yourself a favor and go to ace hardware and replace those phillips head screws with allen heads.Also look to see where your slides are set. This would be a Good time for a bench sync.
Click to expand...

Where are they supposed to be? :)
 
They hold the carb bowls on.4 per bowl,you will need 16 of them.It will make it easier the next time.You will probably also need an impact screwdriver for the needle seat valve screw that are inside the bowls.I had one that would not come out with a screwdriver. If you go to the home page you will find a full discription with pictures on how to take your carbs apart.you can see how everything comes apart on it.It's called the carb cleanup series.If your refering to the carb slides as to where they are suppose to be,your #3 carb is where they should be.It is non adjustable. Set the others evenly across to the same height as the #3.After you get your carbs back on you will want to do a carb sync to get them perfect.
 
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tconroy said:
They hold the carb bowls on.4 per bowl,you will need 16 of them.It will make it easier the next time.You will probably also need an impact screwdriver for the needle seat valve screw that are inside the bowls.I had one that would not come out with a screwdriver. If you go to the home page you will find a full discription with pictures on how to take your carbs apart.you can see how everything comes apart on it.It's called the carb cleanup series.If your refering to the carb slides as to where they are suppose to be,your #3 carb is where they should be.It is non adjustable. Set the others evenly across to the same height as the #3.After you get your carbs back on you will want to do a carb sync to get them perfect.
Click to expand...

Cool thanks. I will start tearing into them as soon as the carb kits show up :)
 
tconroy said:
They hold the carb bowls on.4 per bowl,you will need 16 of them.It will make it easier the next time.You will probably also need an impact screwdriver for the needle seat valve screw that are inside the bowls.I had one that would not come out with a screwdriver. If you go to the home page you will find a full discription with pictures on how to take your carbs apart.you can see how everything comes apart on it.It's called the carb cleanup series.If your refering to the carb slides as to where they are suppose to be,your #3 carb is where they should be.It is non adjustable. Set the others evenly across to the same height as the #3.After you get your carbs back on you will want to do a carb sync to get them perfect.
Click to expand...


Question, there are some parts that need to be replaced according to the guide that are not in the carb kit. Such as the connector o rings and gaskets, and plugs. Does anyone have a parts list for these to order them? I am not sure what they are by looking at diagram :(
 
mortation said:
Question, there are some parts that need to be replaced according to the guide that are not in the carb kit. Such as the connector o rings and gaskets, and plugs. Does anyone have a parts list for these to order them? I am not sure what they are by looking at diagram :(
Click to expand...


Hmmm. Looks like the rebuild kit I ordered wasnt a complete kit. I ordered:

http://www.oldbikebarn.com/part.php...arb Rebuild Kits&bike=GS850&DisplayPerPage=20

And I should have ordered:

http://www.oldbikebarn.com/part.php...arb Rebuild Kits&bike=GS850&DisplayPerPage=20

:shock: Damn. Hope I can salvage the parts I cant replace [-o<

Does anyone know where I can get the carb cleaner dip stuff the GS doc mentions? I didnt see it at VIP or Robins.

OH!

And does anyone have a tip for measuring float levels? The Clymer manual I have (not for the GS, its not here yet) doesnt give very good details on this.
 
There might just be a bit of dirt or ? interfering with the float valve seating. Rust from the tank will do it too. Small chips of rubber, like from the petcock rubber parts, can go down and lodge above the valve.
 
Save all your old parts. The carb kits are crap, you will see brass shavings when you install the new parts, (where will those little shavings end up)the jets are inferior and you will end up cleaning and reusing your old parts because it won't be quite right with the kit parts. An O Ring kit from www.cycleorings.com is probably all you would need and it's less than $13.00. The ORing around the float valve is probably letting fuel by, not usually the valve itself.
 
As said earlier, you shouldn't need to replace any brass parts. Mikuni jets are more precision made than the jets that come in the various kits.
If you have the normal wear and tear inside your carbs, all you'll need is the bowl and top gasket, and replacing all inner o-rings from Robert Barr is advised.
Only additional part(s) you may need are the float valves. The valves do wear and if the tip is worn enough or the small spring gets weak, then that valve will start leaking. As with the jets, the valves that come in kits can be inferior. Problem is that the factory valves are very expensive. I think long term and always buy the factory valves.
Of course, any part can fail, but I only consider the gaskets and inner o-rings as necessary to replace. If you have a leaky carb, inspect/clean it first. If no dirt, etc, then check the floats condition and adjust if necessary. Check the valve tip for grooving and check the spring. Replace as necessary. Keep all carb parts as a unit. Don't mix them up.
 
When ever you measure the float level make sure to do it with the gasket off of the carb to get a good reading.Somebody with an 85o will probably chime in and tell you what the levels are since they are probably different than mine and I would hate to give the wrong specs.Do order the o-rings from robert.They are good quality and the right size.Also they are individually packed and labeled to where they belong.You could'nt ask for anything better than that!
 
Also, oldbikebarn is on our deadbeats list. Near the end of the thread, it appears they are trying to fix their reputation. Read it and decide for yourself. "Partsnmore" sells simple rebuild kits consisting of the two gaskets and float valve. Remember, the valve isn't made as well as the factory valve. That doesn't mean it won't work. It just means it's inferior.
I haven't shopped around that much, but if it was me, I'd just buy the gaskets and order the inner o-ring kits from Robert Barr. Then I'd replace any worn valves with factory.
 
OK I ordered the o ring kit :) Sweet hope this works lol. Never done carbs before :)
 
Read the CV carb article at this site. If there's anything that stumps you, just ask us before you do something you're not comfortable with.
Use tools that fit your parts, keep parts separated and in a group/for each carb... use a towel to keep stuff from dropping and rolling away... install parts carefully, be careful when handling the rubber diaphragms... be careful of removing the pin that holds the floats because many use too much force and break a tower, many of those pins go in/come out one way...be careful when cleaning, using a piece of wire to poke into passages can sometimes create a burr in the soft carb material...just common sense really.
Like I said, just ask us. It's not hard if you take your time.
 
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