Light issue.

[APmech]

When I put my bike back together I had forgotten exactly where some things mount and how the grounds were routed. When I was trying to get it running while disassembled I had the grounds bolted on the the starter solenoid housing and would hook the jumper cables to that and the hot wire. All the lights worked at that time. I put the air cleaner housing and battery box on to the best of my memory and deduction after having torn it apart over a year ago. Now only the oil pressure and high beam indicator, tach light, signals work, and starter work (stop and tail may work but there is no bulb) the highbeam light did work for a little bit but has gone out, has no ground and will not come back. The wiring and connections look fine, I have a battery ground ran to the starter solenoid to ground the airbox and the two grounds that looked like they should go there. I did the test for the rectafier (13.?? @ 5000rpms) its fried with no continuity. I've been pouring over the diagram and can't really find a smoking gun for the light issue.

 

[Steve]

Exactly WHERE on the starter solenoid do you have your grounds? :-k

Hopefully it's on one of the screws that hold the housing to the side of the battery box.

If you have your grounds connected to either of the large terminals on the top, you will not only have a "smoking gun", you will have a smoking BIKE as it burns to the ground.

Those large terminals are HOT terminals. One is connected directly to the battery, the other one is connected to the starter and becomes hot when you push the starter button.

.

 

[APmech]

It starts and runs so... they're under the mounting bolts unless they were different originally the housing needs a source to ground. Also the gear indicator works correctly.

 

[Gorminrider]

The headlight uses the same ground as the turn signals, hi beam indicator, lights for gauges etc. on the other hand, the gear indicators, neutral light, oil indicator do not use the same ground. They are grounded at their switches , through the engine.

Given you have the symptoms described, the Likely trouble is at your bulb, or switch getting "positive" juice, not the ground unless you have disconnected it.

 

[APmech]

One more is SH-775 the part number for the Polaris regulator.

 

[Steve]

SH-775 is the Shindengen part number, but it is shown on all of the Polaris units that have their part number 4012941.

If you insist on a NEW unit, click HERE to see the results of my comparison shopping on March 20.

If you don't mind used, there are plenty on eBay, but you have to shop VERY carefully. There are many out there that look just like it and use terms like "replaces Polaris 4012941" or maybe "SH-775 style regulator". Most of these units are under $25, all listed in "Brand new" condition and come from China. The used 775 units will say "used", usually show some dirt in the picture and run about $45. One of the best things to look for is a picture of the fin opposite the connectors that shows the SH-775 wording.

If you would like help with the decision, let me know, I can weed them out for you.

.

 

[APmech]

Thanks for the help and link Steve. The lights turned out to be the improbable, every one of those bulbs were blown. Probably because the glass fuse holders were clipped together. I replaced it with a sealed inline mini fuse. (15a)
Edit the headlight ground terminal had broken as well so I soldered the wire to the terminal.

 

[LAB3]

Thanks for the help and link Steve. The lights turned out to be the improbable, every one of those bulbs were blown. Probably because the glass fuse holders were clipped together. I replaced it with a sealed inline mini fuse. (15a)
Edit the headlight ground terminal had broken as well so I soldered the wire to the terminal.

Occams Razor: Given an equal set of outcomes, the simplest answer is best!