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List of causes for high idle?

  • Thread starter Thread starter WilliamGLX81
  • Start date Start date
Sure thing.

The balancer tool I'm trying to use is simple. I could make it more complex, but I don't think that would necessarily help.

It's made of 4 pieces of equal length clear vinyl tubing (about 40", which I'm going to add to and get closer to 80"). They are all linked at the bottom - each pair of long lines are connected to the "top bar" of a barbed T-fitting, and the | has a short piece connecting the two loops. The lines are filled with ATF about halfway.
With no restrictors in the lines, the atf moves far too quickly from one line to another and towards the intakes. I don't have time to make any adjustments before I have to kill the engine.
I saw plans for the same basic synch tool for twins, basically made two and linked them together.

I could probably modify this design using 4 sealed containers and having an air gap, but that would be harder to seal.

I also think I set up the butterflies backwards when I did the bench synch. The inside should have lower vacuum than the outside, but I set the inside more closed than the outside. Oops.


I'm convinced I don't have any intake leaks because of the absolute lack of response from the soapy water and starting fluid.

Do the CV carbs have any other adjustments besides the mixture screw? Those are all set to 2 full turns out from gently seated.

My #1 exhaust pipe was less hot than the others before I did the synch. Don't know if that's relevant. It wasn't cool, but it was less hot. Not sure if that's relevant.
 
Good luck with your carb sync tool. After many hours of frustrated attempts, you will finally see that the $100 or so for a Carbtune is well worth it.

The only adjustment on your carbs is the mixture screw. Start with it THREE full turns out for better results. They might end up in the 2 to 2 1/2 turn range, so starting at 2 turns is too lean for a reliable starting point.

Your #1 might have simply been closed too far (a sync job will take care of that), it might be running too lean to fire (a mixture screw adjustment will take care of that) or it might not have good connection in the plug wires and plug caps.

.
 
Ah, I'm pretty obstinate, creative, and resourceful. I'll find a way to make it work.

I checked the plug contacts, and they're good. Didn't remember to check the temps of the exhaust tubes though.

I'm not sure how to do the mixture adjustment yet (highest idle method, I'm guessing?), but the 2 turns came from basscliff's CV rebuild guide.

This is a few tweaks from my end result: (Mind the foul language towards the end)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3qfVwyWJZK0

And here is someone else using the same sort of setup on an R1.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2J_N4VVGGo

It sounds MUCH better. Can't wait to take it for a test ride. The vacuum restriction orifices really made the difference.

I'll post photos of the fittings I made for the carb vacuum ports between now and the end of the weekend for anyone who is curious.
 
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Ah, I'm pretty obstinate, creative, and resourceful. I'll find a way to make it work.
Click to expand...
That's the spirit!
I'm not sure how to do the mixture adjustment yet
Click to expand...
Essentially you're looking for the engine's response when you 'blip' the throttle from idle. If the revs 'hang', then the mixture is too lean, so you need to wind the mixture screws OUT. If the revs 'dip' below the set idle speed after you blip the throttle, then the mixture is too rich, and you need to wind the screws IN.
 
For the mixture adjustment, many have found the answer using the method from the link in my signature.
Best of luck.
 
WilliamGLX81 said:
I'm not sure how to do the mixture adjustment yet (highest idle method, I'm guessing?), but the 2 turns came from basscliff's CV rebuild guide.
Click to expand...


Better go back and read basscliff's CV rebuild guide, because pretty sure there is no reference to "2 turns" there.
Also, your video of the sync process seems to show the bike at idle. You are not supposed to sync at idle and doing so may lead to inaccurate adjustment.
 
Oh, it was the doc linked in koolaid kid's profile. "Turn all the screws to the same setting, usually 2 - 2? turns counter-clockwise from being lightly seated."
But that's for initial setup before tuning. Whups. I expected to do another go-round with the synch because I hadn't set the mix screws.

It was at 1750, though it did drop and I had to raise the idle with the knob once or twice during the procedure.

Cheers!
 
Oops. Seldom would you end up at the start. That is to say, 2-2 1/2 turns will get the engine running, but you are far from done. And yes, I would be greatly surprised if you do not have to adjust the idle screw during the procedure. Don't forget the test ride as well; many times I have had to tweek the mixture screws a bit after the garage adjustments.
 
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