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Longest-lasting/best aftermarket R/R?

  • Thread starter Thread starter randyshipp
  • Start date Start date
R

randyshipp

Guest
After spending the evening in the garage with the multimeter, it seems clear that the alternator in my 1980 GS850GL is OK, but the R/R isn't. I've seen lots of suggestions of replacements, but I really prefer to get this right the first time. Which replacement R/R has worked dead perfect for you in the past? Thanks in advance.

Randy...
 
Well, i don't have a whole lot of experience with R/Rs, but mine recently went bad and my stator also. I changed them both out. Replaced the stator with an Electrex and got a Rick's R/R because it was consideribly cheaper than an Electrex R/R, and also on-hand at denniskirk.com. As soon as I replaced the parts everything was in specs and no troubles since. But you could also take the cheap route and get a Honda R/R on eBay and do the conversion. Use the Search feature here in the forum to do the research and decide for yourself.
Good luck.

PS - Do yourself a favor and clean/protect every ground and electrical connection you can find on your bike before replacing anything.
 
If you're buying new let's hope it's the Suzuki replacement model from Rick's Motorcycle Electrics from DennisKirk.com. 'Cuz that's what I just bought. $90.

I tried to go the used route and ended up buying a fried piece of junk. I'm not going to trust a brand new, $133 stator to some potentially bad R/R.

It's a shame, but buying used electrics is an open invitation to be screwed.
 
Nah, not bitter, really. I knew the chance I was taking and it wasn't all that much $. More the hassle than anything. Most of the stuff being sold is untested and the seller really has no idea if it works or not.
 
RR units can be tested with a multimeter. New ones should be tested too because they are known to be DOA as well.
 
duaneage said:
RR units can be tested with a multimeter. New ones should be tested too because they are known to be DOA as well.
Click to expand...

Right. Which is why I went with the unit from Rick's. Another aftermarket maker has been reported selling a bunch of deaders.
 
duaneage said:
RR units can be tested with a multimeter. New ones should be tested too because they are known to be DOA as well.
Click to expand...

testing a R&R with a multimeter will only tell you if the rectifier side is good.
the only way to test if it will regulate correctly is to put it on and see what it does.
I have one of those electrosport POS's that test good using the stator pages but it don't let enough juice pass.
second hand R&R from a EX-Canadian 850 works perfectly.
 
I bought a used r/r online, and it passed the multimeter tests, but did not regulate the voltage. It allowed the voltage to go up to 17 volts.

It only cost 20 bucks or so.

I bought a second one for about 15, and it works great. It is also beefier than the original, so I think it should dissipate heat better. It keeps the voltage at 13.8 volts.

So, I still paid less than I would have if I bought a new one.

Matt
 
If your RR is dead chances are (100%) your stator is too, usually when the stator goes it takes the RR and battery with it, check it all out .
 
I put a used Honda one in that I picked up from a bike wrecker about a decade ago. It still works fine. 8)
 
mrbill54 said:
If your RR is dead chances are (100%) your stator is too, usually when the stator goes it takes the RR and battery with it, check it all out .
Click to expand...

I would estimate the chances to be more like 90%. It's possible to cook your R/R from causes other than a bad stator. If you catch it soon enough (before you overheat the stator) it's possible to save it. It's happened to me. But definitely if one part of the charging system is bad, check them all - including all connections.
 
Hotblack said:
I would estimate the chances to be more like 90%. It's possible to cook your R/R from causes other than a bad stator. If you catch it soon enough (before you overheat the stator) it's possible to save it. It's happened to me. But definitely if one part of the charging system is bad, check them all - including all connections.
Click to expand...

I ran the no-load alternator test in the Clymer's book, and got 75V AC on each pair of wires, which they said indicated an OK alternator. So I'm just going with a replacement R/R as a start.

Thanks!

Randy...
 
mrbill54 said:
If your RR is dead chances are (100%) your stator is too, usually when the stator goes it takes the RR and battery with it, check it all out .
Click to expand...

If a stator goes bad it will produce less voltage. This will not necessarily damage a Rectifier Regulator. Typically the regulator goes bad trying to deal with a weak battery and when the regulator develops a problem it damages the stator by shorting out the leads from the stator.

Other factors such as wiring shorts, overloading the bike with radios and lights, etc contribute to the problem.
 
randyshipp said:
Hotblack said:
I would estimate the chances to be more like 90%. It's possible to cook your R/R from causes other than a bad stator. If you catch it soon enough (before you overheat the stator) it's possible to save it. It's happened to me. But definitely if one part of the charging system is bad, check them all - including all connections.
Click to expand...

I ran the no-load alternator test in the Clymer's book, and got 75V AC on each pair of wires, which they said indicated an OK alternator. So I'm just going with a replacement R/R as a start.

Thanks!

Randy...
Click to expand...

Great news, sounds like you made out well. Once that R/R goes you don't have long until the stator follows, so you got it just in time.
 
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