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Looking at 81 GS750E needs airbox

  • Thread starter Thread starter jdvorchak
  • Start date Start date
J

jdvorchak

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I'm looking at a 81 GS750E that is mostly complete and certainly inexpensive but missing both the front Airbox, boots and rear air cleaner box. I'm not finding any on eBay but I am seeing a couple from 82 model. They certainly look similar but you know how that goes.

https://stlouis.craigslist.org/mcy/5647580389.html

The Kawi is gone and he wants $400 for the GS. Any thoughts? Looks like Mikuni BS34? carbs so pods are out of the question. He texted me some photos of the carbs and they are CV mikuni.

Also missing the side covers.
 
What, you want to skip pod fun? Seller seems desperate, so offer $300. Pick up the 82 airbox from that Colorado ebay seller- I'd guess it would fit.
 
What, you want to skip pod fun? Seller seems desperate, so offer $300. Pick up the 82 airbox from that Colorado ebay seller- I'd guess it would fit.
Actually I was thinking of $250 offer and see what he does.
 
Looks like Mikuni BS34? carbs so pods are out of the question. He texted me some photos of the carbs and they are CV mikuni.

BS34's work fine with pods if you jet them correctly. My 1100E and many others here are proof of it.


Put pods and a Dynojet kit in it.
Not all smoke and mirrors.

+1. No mystery, just careful , methodical tuning required.


Actually I was thinking of $250 offer and see what he does.

That sounds like a good start. If it isn't running then he is stuck with a parts bike and that isn't worth much.


Mark
 
I actually started to think that a Dyno jet kit and pods would be a viable solution. Then I looked up the price. $70 for pods and $113 for the Dynojet? I think I'll try to source a stock air box. Sorry guys I'm looking for ride ability not performance and on a budget.

I have not heard back on my $250 offer but he may be at work today and can't respond. He has had it for sale for 2 weeks so... Depends on whether he needs the money or not. I'm hoping he takes the offer or at least counters with $300.
 
Well he took $250 and I'm on my way home with it on the trailer. If my son doesn't kill us with his driving. Post pics when we get it home.
 
It's pretty rough shape but I can work with what I have. First glanced I need new tires, battery, chain, carbs cleaned, air box (both), front brakes, fluids.. Just what you would expect for a garage/barn find.





 
Is that a mural on the tank or just rust?

I've started with worse - you shouldn't have too much trouble getting it running by the looks of things.
 
It's a decal of a dragon. Inside of the tank is very minor rust. Hooked up a battery and at least the engine spins free. He had the plug wires on the wrong spark plugs so it would have never started like it was. The oil level sight glass is useless so before I try to even run compression check I'll drain oil, if any, and refill. According to the last inspection sticker it was 2003 since last on the road. So I have to be careful not to damage anything internal.
 
Is that a mural on the tank or just rust?

I've started with worse - you shouldn't have too much trouble getting it running by the looks of things.

Thanks for the vote of confidence. I'll get more in depth checking tomorrow. Supposed to rain so what else have I got to do?
 
Ok this is a first for me. I decided first thing was to drain the oil. Well I guess there's some oil in there but mostly pulled out about 2 gallon of water. I've seen water in the oil before, but never this much!

Heading down to the auto parts store for oil and a filter. Thinking I'll put about 3 qts of diesel fuel (kerosene) in the sump and spin the engine for a while to help flush out any remaining water. Then see if I need to do that again before putting new oil and filter in. Should have seen me laughing when I pulled the drain plug!!!!
 
Are you sure it's water? Could be gas diluting the oil from a leaky petcock.

At least verify proper operation of the petcock before trusting it to hold back the gas.

.
 
Yes I'm sure it's water... Looks like a milkshake And I already know the petcock leaks in the "on" position so I'll have to rebuild it. This is all pretty normal stuff for reviving an old barn, or in this case, back yard find. I did confirm it has spark so there is a chance it will run once I get the carbs cleaned. I'll pour a few quarts of kerosene in there and spin the starter with the spark plugs out then drain it again and see if I still have water. What ever water is left will boil out on the first run of 20 minutes or so. I am going to pick up oil and a filter in a few minutes then probably try a compression check with the new oil. I expect it to be a little low but some MMO in the cylinders will finish cleaning that out. This is not going to a fast revive. Every inch of this bike needs attention. Wires, fluids, switches etc. But that is why I bought it. I needed a project and got one.
 
And I already know the petcock leaks in the "on" position so I'll have to rebuild it.
Save your money and some aggravation, just replace it.

Seems that the overall success rate with rebuild kits is only 10-15%, after which you will have to buy a new one, anyway. :-\\\

.
 
I agree that the success rate is small but I always end up taking them apart and seeing what's wrong then make the determination of rebuild or replace. I just rebuilt my KZ1100 and it's fine. But it had the diaphragm torn so it was an easy fix. Last Suzuki I had I couldn't get it to stop leaking so I bought a new one. Usually all it costs me is an O-ring, which I have plenty, or a new 5 hole gasket. I'm about 50/50 on rebuild success over the past dozen or so.

FYI I revive a lot of old UJM's. Gives me something fun to do. Then I usually flip them and go buy a couple more.
 
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