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Loose change in my valves? Ratta, tat, tat...Sounds like

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Anonymous

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Hello all. I am writing today to ask if it is just a usual thing for the 1978 GS 550 to sound like it has valve parts and loose change banging arround inside the engine as it is warming up and idling. I can give it some gas and it smooths out. What is this sound, should I be alarmed, should I be afraid? Just asking as a guy said that it should sound this way, as "all old Japanese bikes do." Any help would be greatly apprecieated.
Thanks
 
Bend over and see if the knob on the cam chain tentioner is moving, if so: replace/tention the spring/stop and thighten clockwise - restart. One or all of the above vil fix it, but some are more temporarely than others.
 
take you cam chain adjuster off and clean it and reset like it sez in the manuel. if you still have nickels in the top end maybe loose valve shims.

-ryan
 
Here's how to service the tensioner.

With the tensioner removed from the cylinder block loosen the lock nut on the left side of the tensioner and back the slotted bolt out ? turn. Turn the knob on the right side of the tensioner, which in the Suzuki service manual is called a lock shaft handle, counterclock-wise. As you are turning the knob counterclock-wise push the pushrod all the way back. Keep turning the knob until it refuses to turn any further.

With the pushrod still pushed in as far as it will go tighten the slotted bolt so that the pushrod will not plunge out.

Remount the tensioner to the cylinder block. If the tensioner is not going in turn the crankshaft clockwise slowly to get slack in the cam chain on the intake side of the block.

Loosen the slotted bolt ? turn allowing the pushrod to advance towards the cam chain. Tighten the lock nut but leave the slotted bolt loose by that ? turn.

While turning the knob counterclock-wise, slowly rotate the crankshaft in reverse direction, counterclock-wise. This causes the chain to push the pushrod back.

Release the knob and slowly turn the crankshaft in the normal direction, clockwise. You should see the knob rotate as the chain becomes progressively slackened. If it does the pushrod is obviously moving forward under spring pressure signifying the tensioner is in good operable condition. If it moves sluggishly or not at all that means the pushrod or the slotted bolt is sticking. If so remove the tensioner from the block again and inspect the pushrod. It could need cleaning or could be bent or galled. Further crank rotation will take the slack out of the cam chain.
 
Question:

I'm adjusting my valves, and will be cleaning and checking the tensioner.

Does it come out cleanly without having to remove the head/cam/chain?

I would very much prefer not to have to remove the cam chain for this.

If I have to remove the cam chain, may as well do the valves the easy way and remove the cams.
 
Dark Jedi said:
Question:

I'm adjusting my valves, and will be cleaning and checking the tensioner.

Does it come out cleanly without having to remove the head/cam/chain?

I would very much prefer not to have to remove the cam chain for this.

If I have to remove the cam chain, may as well do the valves the easy way and remove the cams.
Click to expand...

It bolts right off. Make sure you follow the procedure correctly and lock it up before removal or the spring/piston may fly across the room. I just reset my tensioner on my 77gs550. I was getting the bag full of nickles sound from my engine....now its all gone!!! :D I had to take off the carbs to get at it with the tools I was using. You may be able to get at it without removing the carbs but I wasn't able to swing it. Its a tight fit.
 
You'll need to take the carbs off to remove the cam chain tensioner.
 
knelson said:
You'll need to take the carbs off to remove the cam chain tensioner.
Click to expand...

grumble grumble grumble. You what a pain that is on the 650G? :lol:

I kinda figured I would. Might as well clean em while they are out. Due to be re-synced anyway.
 
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