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Loose fitting CV Choke Boots a Problem?

Nessism

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I've read over on KZ Rider from at least one guy that says his bike runs perfectly with the boots removed completely but could use more opinions. Reason for asking is because I'm finishing up on a set of KZ Mikuni BS CV 34's and the boots are completely falling apart. Kawasaki's version of the BS carbs is slightly different in details such as the type of boots. I'm planning to switch over to the Suzuki cap boot but the ones I've got are a sloppy fit on the plunger.

Feedback?
 
Arent they basically dust boots anyway?? Maybe a drop of super glue to stop them from rotating on the brass bases??? Little RTV??? Your carbs or a customers..it may not matter which if they are your keepers.
 
The loose fit part is not to the brass base, it's to the plunger itself. Air can draw past it, assuming there is vacuum behind that is. Guess I need to study the way the choke system works. I know it's basically a controlled air bleed but I'm just not sure if the boot is functional or just a dust cap as you suggest.
 
Its my assumption the raised ring at the bottom of the hole seals against the rubber tip insert of the plunger itself. So maybe a little side to side looseness isnt a problem????
 
The boot is essentially a wiper for plunger shaft, Ed. Vacuum is confined behind O-ring.
 
The boot is essentially a wiper for plunger shaft, Ed. Vacuum is confined behind O-ring.

Leakage past the o-rings is shown in RED, leakage past the boot in BLUE.

On further study it seems that the close fit of the plunger in the carb body is what controls sealing. Think I'm going to be okay regardless of how well the plunger boot seals.

CV choke.JPG
 
The rubber cap is just a dust boot to keep crap out of the bore so the slide will work.

Guess I need to study the way the choke system works.
When you activate the "choke", the plunger is pulled sideways, unblocking an air port. The source of the air is the oval at the top of the carb intake. Air passes under the diaphragm and out the hole that is usually blocked by the "choke" plunger, then down to the outlet of the carb, downstream of the throttle plate. Note that when the "choke" plunger is pulled enough to open the air passage, the pin on the end also opens up a fuel passage from the float bowl. Together, these air and fuel ports comprise the enrichening system. You can modulate engine speed while on "choke" by varying the size of the air opening with the "choke" lever or cable, but do NOT use the throttle, or you will destroy the high vacuum that this system needs to operate.

Yes, I'm sure that you know how to start a bike with the "choke", this was meant for the newbies that are reading this, too.

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