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Low rpm bogging an no top end power

  • Thread starter Thread starter Cdnpt1
  • Start date Start date
C

Cdnpt1

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On the 82 750E I have dipped and blown out the carbs, new orings, intake rubber is nice and pliable, new seal on the stock air box cover, valves adjusted, mixture screws at 2 1/2 turns. She idles nice and smooth at 1k rpm and revs nicely up to limit on the stand but as soon as i get under way, from 1k to about 3500 rpm she bogs down, even worse if i am on a grade, no power at all. If i can nurse her past this she does ok until about 6500 or so but tops out power wise, no acceleration on the shift to 2nd either. everything is stock. I will put new plugs in and switch out the air filter but i wouldnt think these would make the difference. Any insight? Oh, she takes about ten minutes to warm up as well, even in 80 degree weather. My 450 takes about two minutes and goes like stink in an elevator so this is super frustrating.
 
Wow..sounds a bit like my bike. Have you done anything on the electrical? I'm putting in a new R/R and Dyna ignition. I hope that fixes my bike.
 
I havent done anything electrical as yet, i am going to go start her up and look at plugs though, i just read about trimming the wires back a bit and reattaching the plug caps to get fresh contact, maybe not a good spark? I will let you know what happens. Thinking it may be a petcock issue too so will try running on prime and see as well. One change at a time though to rule stuff out.
 
Well, one question answered, 3rd spark plug was shot, was only running on 3 cylinders, now if I only had the spark plug socket I conveniently left in another garage an hour away...
 
Just the stock recommended NGk's but I suspect these are the first set put in so I am going to switch them out, I had the same issue with the 450 when I was getting it going. Something i should have done just as a matter of course. Hopefully this will take care of the issue. Then she's off for new tires and inspection.
 
Always check/adjust the spark plug gap before installing new plugs. ;)
I recommend .028" gap.

Eric
 
Check. New plugs gapped and in, idles well, revs excellent until warmed up, which happens much quicker now. Once warm she would only rev with the choke, figure leaning out so i pulled the air filter: no seal left. When i plugged the inlet pipe with my hand she revved quick, put new filter in and replaced cap, will rev to about 3500 then holds for about three seconds then slowly rises. Despite pliable hoses I suspect just too old and there is a leak in the connections. Looks like one more order for boulevard for new rubber bits and I should be good. Thank god its a three paycheck month. On the plus side my brake lines came in, ,now just have to block the anti dives and throw those on while I wait.
 
Hi,

Have you replaced the intake boot O-rings too? Have you sealed the entire air intake system?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
These dont use the flat face tube and oring but rather just a plain pipe with clamps. The set between the carbs and head are good, i just ordered a new set of tubes from the air box to carbs and the rear airbox connector tube. that should do it knock on wood.
 
OK, new rubber through the entire system now. So I fired her up, and it took a while to warm up, response to choke was up and down, not consistant at all. Once she warmed up I reset the idle at about 1200, she revs smoothly through the range on the stand but on the road, she will die starting out unless I feather the clutch, and forget about starting on any type of hill. Once she finally hit 5k rpm though she goes like a bat! Above 5k she is scary powerful. So I am thinking despite the carb dip and rebuild, I have some crud in the pilot circuit. Any thoughts or advice? Anyone else seen this? I don't mind running above 5K rpm but it sure would be nice to get there a little quicker : )
 
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