ok i assume you didn't remove the basket???
this is very important.
remove and inspect the back side of the basket.
this is very important.
remove and inspect the back side of the basket.
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Clearly it is junk...A little more detail...
Don't mind the cel phone pics. It was handy.
R
Roostabunny
Guest
No, I removed it. Just wasn't sure what I'm looking for and didn't see any obvious damage like on the hub. What am I looking for on the backside?
The one thing I was uncertain about and didn't see in the shop manual was how to remove the coil springs. They show measuring with a caliper, do they just pry out through the slots they're in?
it looks better than most i have seen.
can you move the gear forward and backward separate from the basket?
can you move the gear side to side away from the basket?
i'm sure the spring are loose....and no do not pry them out...that's not how it's done.
you have to drill the rivet's out and all this crap.
i'm sure it's probably fine from the pics as long as the gear/basket is solid with each other.
can you move the gear forward and backward separate from the basket?
can you move the gear side to side away from the basket?
i'm sure the spring are loose....and no do not pry them out...that's not how it's done.
you have to drill the rivet's out and all this crap.
i'm sure it's probably fine from the pics as long as the gear/basket is solid with each other.
R
Roostabunny
Guest
Oh. Well, I felt kind of dumb about the springs, but now I'm glad I asked, thanks!
The shop manual shows a naked spring being measured by a caliper, but nothing on how they got that spring. I take it they're to be measured in place if you're just inspecting. Well, even shop manuals are fallible.The gear/basket connection is rock solid - no movement. And barring an out-of-spec spring, I won't plan on drilling anything or upgrading springs, so my basket will go back in as-is.
OK, so I think next steps are...
- obtain a replacement clutch hub (due to the damaged splines)
- obtain a new lock washer and piano wire clip (old washer might be OK, but I'm assuming they're cheap)
- eval the springs
- eval the plates (they look like any one of the used clutches I see on Ebay, but I'm thinking I might have felt some high-rpm slippage recently and it's nothing to put the caliper to them)
Couple of questions/observations...
1.) Not getting much love from my go-to parts site (Z1) on piano wire clips and lock washers (or clutch plates if I need them, for that matter). Pretty sure Bike Bandit will have everything
2.) Opinions on after-market clutch hub nuts? Mine looks OK, mainly interested if there's a consensus that after-market stays on significantly better.
R
Roostabunny
Guest
Don't mind the cel phone pics. It was handy.
Well, that's a fine example., especially side-by-side with mine.
Sent you a PM.
why do you need a piano wire?
that is only used to hold the inner plate to the hub.
if you get a used hub just make sure it has the plate still installed(common).
i like OEM fibers..
there are many GS models with the same fibers that are in your 850.
if used will work for you...there should be many sets available for cheap.
on the hub nut you could get a chrome moly HD nut from APE but on an 850 this would be overkill.
an 1150 nut would be an upgrade.
IMO....
stock will be fine for you.
that is only used to hold the inner plate to the hub.
if you get a used hub just make sure it has the plate still installed(common).
i like OEM fibers..
there are many GS models with the same fibers that are in your 850.
if used will work for you...there should be many sets available for cheap.
on the hub nut you could get a chrome moly HD nut from APE but on an 850 this would be overkill.
an 1150 nut would be an upgrade.
IMO....
stock will be fine for you.
I does....
Has a little bit of 'light' rust on the steel in spots which should come off** with scotch-brite pad.
** and it did.
I'll take a punch to the small raised bump showing on the front side of the hub.
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R
Roostabunny
Guest
Yeah, I assumed I'd need to install the inner plate from my hub. I read from Dale's post that I probably won't.
I count 8 fiber plates on the fiche, sound right? I can count my plates, I know, but I'm just at my desk at the moment and checking ebay. (Edit: Oh man, sorry, that was lazy.)
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R
Roostabunny
Guest
Quick update...
Parts are on the way from Dale and others, though it feels like the ordered parts are going to get here long after Dale's more prompt clutch hub.
I'm sorely tempted to re-assemble the whole thing with the old hub nut and lock washer, but I feel like one of those must have been the source of the failure in the first place, so I'll wait. And wait.
Parts are on the way from Dale and others, though it feels like the ordered parts are going to get here long after Dale's more prompt clutch hub.
I'm sorely tempted to re-assemble the whole thing with the old hub nut and lock washer, but I feel like one of those must have been the source of the failure in the first place, so I'll wait. And wait.
i have reused folding tabs and stock hub nut's to many times to count..
worry about real problems grasshoppa
worry about real problems grasshoppa
R
Roostabunny
Guest
i have reused folding tabs and stock hub nut's to many times to count..
worry about real problems grasshoppa
Well, then maybe I'll be riding sooner than I thought.
But I'm still kinda puzzled how that nut gets loose.
G
Guest
Guest
Eric suggests, Red lock tite and an impact gun...Well, then maybe I'll be riding sooner than I thought.
loctite is a waste because it is a spline.
i always impact hub and sprocket nuts(large items).
just common sense...
i always impact hub and sprocket nuts(large items).
just common sense...
Negative on the red lock-tite.
R
Roostabunny
Guest
Uh oh.
Trying to re-install my clutch basket, and with a new kind of leverage on it (engaged with the drive gear) I got some noticeable movement between the basket and the gear that I hadn't found when I just had the assembly loose in my hands. The basket was able to twist the basket a fraction of an inch in either direction relative to the gear.
So I had no in/out play, and no side/side play, but it seems that I have some rotational play. I assume this is a problem and means I need to also replace my clutch basket?
Trying to re-install my clutch basket, and with a new kind of leverage on it (engaged with the drive gear) I got some noticeable movement between the basket and the gear that I hadn't found when I just had the assembly loose in my hands. The basket was able to twist the basket a fraction of an inch in either direction relative to the gear.
So I had no in/out play, and no side/side play, but it seems that I have some rotational play. I assume this is a problem and means I need to also replace my clutch basket?
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that just means it's like 99% of the basket's out there.
on an 850 i would not sweat it.
now side to side would be a different story.
on an 850 i would not sweat it.
now side to side would be a different story.
