Lube Free Chains, Good or Bad?

[rhoff71]

I'm getting ready to do a 630 to 530 conversion on my '77 GS750
and I was wondering what everyone's thoughts are on Lube Free Chains?

I've got a brother that uses one and he likes it but it's not totally maintenance free. I've also heard that dirty environments can be
bad for them also.

 

[KGB]

hmmmmmmmm

never heard of "lube free" I have heard of sealed o-ring or sealed x-ring.

The chain is exposed to al lkinds of weather and elements.
Plus it's subjected to heat and cooloing cycles.
With that being said, and IMO, I would still spray it with some type of wax or lube to protect it.
What's the warranty/guarantee on one of these lubeless chains?

But that's just my opinion.

 

[rhoff71]

The chain is impregnated with oil and is supposed to last quite a long time
And I do think you do need to put some lube on it periodically.

There is an HSL series that Tsubaki makes that is lube free.

 

[lecroy]

There was not a lot of information on Tsubaki's site about it. I have never used one, or know of anyone who has tried one.

MANUFACTURER?S STATEMENT TSUBAKI LIMITED WARRANTY
......
Excluded are modified motorcycles whose application deviates from equivalent original equipment manufacturer?s application as to chain type, size, pitch and gearing.

So, the way I read this, you voided the warrenty as soon as you put the chain on your bike because you did not use the 630 size that was OEM.

 

[Jethro]

I used a "lube free" chain last time... it's only lube free if you don't ride your bike outside, and it never, ever gets wet, and you never wash your bike with soap, and sand does not exist where you ride, and....

 

[QuaiChangKane]

O-ring or X-ring chain, YES. Non-O-ring chains should be left for the history books.



But don't let them fool you - just because the lube is "impregnated" doesn't mean they're maintenance free. You still need to clean, lube, and adjust them regularly.

-Q!

 

[lecroy]

O-ring or X-ring chain, YES. Non-O-ring chains should be left for the history books.

-Q!

If it were a non-performance group I would agree but it you want some free power, go with a non-O-ring chain. Why waste power with all that rubbing action?

I think there was a post on this subject (miles between chain changes), but I had about 20,000 miles on my last O ring type.

 

[Billyboy]

I got a cheapo non-o-ring chain, cause I'm broke. I don't think it'll hold up like an o-ring, but I'm not overly concerned. I don't give it time to rust up and I l;ude it every 2nd tank. I'm not going to convert to 530. I like the beefier chain. I'm heavy, and so's my wrist.

 

[QuaiChangKane]

If it were a non-performance group I would agree but it you want some free power, go with a non-O-ring chain. Why waste power with all that rubbing action?

I think there was a post on this subject (miles between chain changes), but I had about 20,000 miles on my last O ring type.

I can see where you're coming from, but I'd take a 530 X-ring over a 630 standard, with no loss of acceleration due to the weight savings. 630 chains are way overkill with today's manufacturing standards.


The gains would be negligible and probably not noticeable on a street bike. It's like telling someone that thinner oil will allow their engine to rev up quicker, which is true, but hardly noticeable.

A lot of modern SS riders convert from 530 chains to 520 because they're told it's an easy performance mod - with seldom noticeable results.


At least the O- or X-ring chain won't rust between the rollers and the plates.


YMMV.



-Q!

 

[scotty]

"If it were a non-performance group I would agree but it you want some free power, go with a non-O-ring chain. Why waste power with all that rubbing action? "

:-D :-D :-D :-D

 

[lecroy]

I can see where you're coming from, but I'd take a 530 X-ring over a 630 standard, with no loss of acceleration due to the weight savings. 630 chains are way overkill with today's manufacturing standards.

The gains would be negligible and probably not noticeable on a street bike. It's like telling someone that thinner oil will allow their engine to rev up quicker, which is true, but hardly noticeable.

-Q!

Go to any NHRA or Prostar event and count the number of sealed chains you see. I only wrote this because you had made the comment "Non-O-ring chains should be left for the history books."

Again, if your just riding your old GS back and forth to work, who cares get an O ring chain and be done with it. But if your big in performance and going balls to the wall, friction is a bad thing.

Your right, there is some savings in the weight of the chain to be had as well. Not just by the size of the chain but also by the strength. Shown are two 630 chains. The small chain would be something like what you would see on a top gas bike, the thicker on maybe a funny bike. Both, non-sealed.

 

[quakeholio]

I've always seen people go on about the performance gain of the standard chain to the o-ring chain. Has anyone ever done a study or anything like that to produce numbers as to how much power they lose?

Is this increase anything that will get you anything on the street? Just because something is true or good in the reality of the track dosen't mean that it is true or good in the reality of the street. I've often wondered why people try to copy the smallest things about racers while leaving the big things behind. If you run standard chain with this argument I DEMAND to see the racing carbs on your bike!

I've never seen a "race proven" rain suit.

Why am I reading this, I've seen the light! I've been shafted baby!

 

[lecroy]

"Just because something is true or good in the reality of the track dosen't mean that it is true or good in the reality of the street."

If your driving on the street, who would care?

 

[Billy Ricks]

"Just because something is true or good in the reality of the track dosen't mean that it is true or good in the reality of the street."

If your driving on the street, who would care?

Exactly, I know the point you're making. Virtually every type of racing utilizes non-ringed chains. If you're caring for a chain properly even non-ringed chain is fine for the street. If you want to be lazy about it then ringed is the way to go.

 

[quakeholio]

Just another couple of questions about chains on race bikes? How old do the race chains get, like milage or number of races? How clean is the track they are on? Dose the chain on a race bike ever see moisture? How often do they check the chain tention?

I think that a race chain will need moretensile strenght then a o-ring chain, but I think the environment that the race bike chain lives in is nicer then that of most street bikes.

 

[Billy Ricks]

Just another couple of questions about chains on race bikes? How old do the race chains get, like milage or number of races? How clean is the track they are on? Dose the chain on a race bike ever see moisture? How often do they check the chain tention?

I think that a race chain will need moretensile strenght then a o-ring chain, but I think the environment that the race bike chain lives in is nicer then that of most street bikes.

All the conditions you asked about effect ringed chains as well. If you're properly cleaning and lubing even a ringed chain then it's a non-issue with a performance non-ringed chain. The sealed chains only protect the inside of the rollers anyway, it's doing nothing to protect the plates or roller surfaces.

 

[lecroy]

Just another couple of questions about chains on race bikes? How old do the race chains get, like milage or number of races? How clean is the track they are on? Dose the chain on a race bike ever see moisture? How often do they check the chain tention?

I think that a race chain will need moretensile strenght then a o-ring chain, but I think the environment that the race bike chain lives in is nicer then that of most street bikes.

I would be willing to bet if you ask 10 guys this you will get 10 different answers. Every track is different. Every rider will treat their gear different and decide when it is best to change out parts. For the racing we do, the bike is backed in and out of a water box and the tire is spun, but little of the water ends up on the chain. Most of the guys have enclosed trailors, so rain is not much of an issue.

This weekend I think we made 10 passes average on each bike. If we raced every weekend for 6 months, thats 240 passes or about 240 miles when you consider pushing the bikes back. We normally change them once a season but we did just put the third chain on the kids bike this year. All of these bikes run in the 8's. I would guess that the guys running in the 6's change them much more often than us and the guys who race the street bikes (real street bikes, not shoot out bikes) have thier chains for years before they swap them out.

We check the chain tension every run for the most part and adjust them maybe every 20 passes or so. (The clutch is much worse). From what I have seen , its not so much the stretch that causes us to change a chain as that they start to bind. So, we don't change the gears like you would with a street bike every time you change the chain.

You did not ask, but we lube the chains every couple of passes on average.

The strength is going to be a question of how much power you want to plant and how often you plan to change the chain.

 

[Jethro]

I got a cheapo non-o-ring chain, cause I'm broke. I don't think it'll hold up like an o-ring, but I'm not overly concerned. I don't give it time to rust up and I l;ude it every 2nd tank. I'm not going to convert to 530. I like the beefier chain. I'm heavy, and so's my wrist.

Strength is a non-issue. I'm a 260lb tank arse and I beat the ever loving snot out of my 1100 with a 530 chain- wheelies, massive engine breaking, redline all the time... some of the high performance 530 chains are way higher strength than you can ever get a 630 in. Plus, if you like saving money, the 530 is the way to go. 630 chains and sprockets are more money.

 

[quakeholio]

The one that conviced me to go on to the 530 (quite riding the bike before it happened though) was someone mentioned that the GSXR1000 was running 530 as I recall. The bike puts out more power then most any gs1100.

Interesting note that the chains last longer on the race bikes then chains. I've always figured that the clutches on the racers didn't have an easy life, but I didn't know that was the extent of it.

 

[lecroy]

some of the high performance 530 chains are way higher strength than you can ever get a 630 in.

Show me! Find something with over 30000 tensile strength in a 530.

630SHB-Z: The Chain for H-D Top Fuelers
With an unsurpassed 30,000-lb. tensile strengh, the 630SHB-Z is specificaly designed to handle the brutal horsepower of today?s V-twin top fuelers.
Recommended application: V-twin top fuel drag racing
Tensile strength: 30,000 lbs.
Available lengths: cut to order though

"The one that conviced me to go on to the 530 (quite riding the bike before it happened though) was someone mentioned that the GSXR1000 was running 530 as I recall. The bike puts out more power then most any gs1100."

My GSXR1100W I think had 150 HP from the factory and has a 532 chain. I think my GS was 108 HP with the 630 chain. From that I can understand where your coming from. But these were stock low performance engines. Add some pistons and turbo to that old GS with 20 pounds of boost and then add a car tire to the mix and things start to happen. The GS can pull well over 300 HP. Way more than the stock GSXR. And while you can thrash an old GS with a little street tire all day long, a 10" drag slick tends to not be so forgiving on parts.