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Lubed choke cable, slides... choke won't stay open

  • Thread starter Thread starter WilliamGLX81
  • Start date Start date
W

WilliamGLX81

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I got lube-happy lubing cables with my fancy teflon dry-wax spray on lube.

Clutch and throttle cables are feeling gooood now. Choke not so much. The choke won't stay out more than 1/4 of the way unless I hold it. What gives? Aren't you supposed to lube all of the cables? Maybe mine is broken; I wouldn't be surprised.
 
You have the lever on the left handlebar, right? Tighten the screw underneath.
 
There is a pivot screw in the center of the thumb choke lever tighten it up

It is the friction lock
 
Ah, sorry, I should have described it to begin with. I have a pull-out center mounted choke. I have a hunch somebody maybe swapped the hand controls.

There are two plastic nuts that thread onto different diameter parts of the choke body. I think the big one locks the body in place.

There is a plastic mandrel-looking thing in the center of a plastic washer under the smaller nut, but it doesn't seem to actually do anything, or maybe the threads are stripped off the smaller nut.
 
As far as I know, the 81 650 had choke knob in steering tube- if tightening plastic nut doesn't work, clean teflon goop off, add fine sawdust for friction. Basically, you'll be holding the choke out full for cold start, but quickly drop it to 1/4 out to keep revs from shooting up. It it holds at 1/4 out, be happy, cuz it won't need to stay there long
 
OK I thought the L had the lever. Maybe you could shoot some carb cleaner down into the hole the knob goes into to remove some of the oil? Maybe Tom's sawdust idea would work. It's made to have a certain about of friction, lubing that part wasn't good. The choke cable doesn't move much, it isn't used constantly like the throttle or clutch cable. I wouldn't lube it at all.
 
you should be able to tighten the top nut. If that doesn't work, something is malfunctioning.

I've had this specific situation a couple different ways.

The headset-location choke has several tightening nuts. the top nut controls the friction on top section of the choke cable that is solid. This top nut is plastic and can strip. No good solution if it is stripped other than a replacement cable is only like $17.

chokecable_zps9d8b4869.png
 
I guess there may be a way to augment the stripped nut by a hose clamp. Not at all elegant though.
 
All 81 650's had steering stem pull 'choke' cable, 82-83's incorporated left handlebar lever style. What Andrew pictured is the solution to your problem. If the top nut isn't broken or stripped, tightening that will hold the cable 'up'.
 
Last edited:
The top nut is indeed stripped. I wonder if I could replace it or add a washer to some effect.

I take it the cable comes with the tensioner and mount and pull-out piece?
 
WilliamGLX81 said:
The top nut is indeed stripped. I wonder if I could replace it or add a washer to some effect.e?
Click to expand...

no,

1 - unless you figure out how to remove and re-install either end. And then you'd have to figure out the thread size/pitch. But if you do, put on a metal nut.

2 - a washer won;t help since it will be even less threads catching.

without that, try a hoseclamp and then you can decide if you want to get a new cable.

WilliamGLX81 said:
I take it the cable comes with the tensioner and mount and pull-out piece?
Click to expand...

yes, its a plug-and-play install <10min. this is really the way to go.
 
tkent02 said:
OK I thought the L had the lever.
Click to expand...

recycled64 said:
All 81 650's had steering stem pull 'choke' cable, 82-83's incorporated left handlebar lever style.
Click to expand...
Wasn't just the 650s, all of the '82-and-newer four-cylinder GSes had the lever under the left-side switch assembly.

As far as the two-cylinder bikes go, the 450GA got the lever in '82, the 300L and 450L got it in '83. Apparently, the 450E was never blessed with it.

.
 
850 Combat said:
I use a clothes pin. Those cables just don't last that well.

I keep it on the clutch cable.
Click to expand...

My choke cable wouldn't stay pulled-out either because the inner threaded portion was both stripped and cracked. I was using small vice grips to hold it open.

I ended up buying a replacement OEM cable and it works fine now.
 
I have a similar issue: I do use the choke a bit but it sometimes takes two hands to pull it out. :)

How did you get the lube in the sleeve anyways? I can't seem to find a way how.
 
Revjoel said:
I have a similar issue: I do use the choke a bit but it sometimes takes two hands to pull it out. :)

How did you get the lube in the sleeve anyways? I can't seem to find a way how.
Click to expand...
If it has gotten that bad, it might be beyond the point of resurrection. :eek:

Splurge. Get a new one. Part number 58400-45110 will cost you $18.18 at Parts Outlaw.
icon_thumbsup.gif


While you are on that page, go ahead and order new throttle and clutch cables, too. It will feel like a much-newer bike. :D

.
 
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