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Lucas Carb Cleaner

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GS1100G

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I used this in my bike (recomended dose) and it does not like it... 2 tanks of hi test later bike still runs like shat, takes a lot more fuel to get the same power, is spits and sputters and bogs way down... What did I do to the bike?!?!? The bottle never said that it couldn't be used in motorcycles... HELP!!!!:-?
 
What did I do to the bike?!?!?

You put snake oil in it. Drain the gas, put real gas in it, and go.

If you want to "clean" the carburetors, remove them and clean them. There are no shortcuts.
 
Well it was suppose to lube the valves and piston rings, and what is "snake oil"
 
If you engine is running it is constantly lubing the valves an piston rings.

Snake oil is any one of many, many substances sold that claim to help/fix something that it can't possibly do...like fuel injector cleaner and "headgasket in a can" and pretty much anything that has "stop leak" in the title.
 
oh Well, I guess ur right about the add-ins I have learned my lesson, no more "snake oil" I did look at it some more and noticed the fuel valve was on reserve, I also just for ****s bleeded the pans in the carbs, all of them flowed freely except for the one 3rd from the left I had to take the screw almost all the way out to get the gas to flow free then I tightened it and loosened again and if ran free hope this was part of my problem....
 
You may just have a bit of sludge in the fuel system. When was the last time the carbs were cleaned?


Also, was there any ill running issues occurring prior to adding the lucas stuff?
 
the carbs were cleaned before put away, about 6 months ago before it's last run we put 2 tanks of fuel with stabul in it for the carbs sake... and I wanted the cleaner just to take the small stuff out... never again... and the tank was put away full with stabul to prevent rust and was drained before I started it... and with a quick charge of the battery and fresh gas it fired right up... and I know someone is going to say "If it ain't broke don't fix it" I already figured that out...
 
well sometimes it's just too hard to not over-think things.

Just keep in mind anything you run through your fuel system will alter tune one way or another, despite what that additive is supposed to be doing. I'd throw fresh gas in her and not worry about it. If it doesn't go away with a tankful, or if the situation worsens, I would start worrying.
 
sounds like a plan the test will be in the morning when I go to work... that is when it throws a temper tantrum, i don't think my bike is a morning bike like me i hate mornings
 
I have never used the Lucas cleaner, but I do have experience with Sta-Bil.

By filling the tank with a mix that includes Sta-Bil, you did OK. that is pretty good stuff and I have used it for years. However, I have recently discovered that Sta-Bil has a shelf life. If you have a small bottle of it and pour the entire contents into the tank, that is not a problem, but if you have a larger (1 quart or so) bottle and keep it from year to year, it can go 'stale'. When you go to start the engine, there is no need to drain the Sta-Bil-ized gas, just fire it up and go.

I have more recently turned to using Seafoam instead of Sta-Bil. It has some remarkable cleaning properties, and can also be used as a stabilizer. I used it as a stabilizer for the first time last fall when I stored my lawn mower. It started up this spring just as easily as it ever did with Sta-Bil.

I was intrigued by the first two statements:
I used this in my bike (recomended dose) and it does not like it... 2 tanks of hi test later bike still runs like shat, ...

Drain the gas, put real gas in it, and go.
I don't know if Lucas can be considered "snake oil" as I have never used it or even read the can for claims, but I do agree with the suggestion to put 'real' gas in it. Just one thing to consider, though, unless your bike has been 'enhanced' with higher compression, cams, header, etc, there is likely no need for 'hi test' gas. Many users use 'hi test' on the assumption that it makes more power. It does not. In fact, there are fewer BTUs in a gallon of 'hi test' than there are in a gallon of 'regular'. These bikes were designed to run on 'regular' gas. 'Hi test' gas is harder to light and burns slower, so you are not achieving peak combustion pressures until it's too late in the combustion cycle. This will usually result in unburnt deposits on the valves and pistons, which will lead to other problems.

.
 
^I love it when another person actually understands how octane works.
 
Not sure about Lucas in particular but there are some good fuel system cleaners in the market: Techron and Seafoam are a couple of them. My stepsons Toyota failed it's CA emissions test big time - labled as a "Gross Emitter". Couple of tank of gas later, with Techron, and the car passed. I don't think this stuff is magic or anything but I think it would help a bike with a mild case of carb congestion so to speak (assuming the O-rings are are reasonably fresh that is). If the O-rings are old, go staight to full tear down.
 
well with the regular the valves rattle with hi-test they don't, and i plan to use the storage gas little by little to use it up b/c it is liquid gold, and the stabul was brand new, I guess I just over thought the situation... although i did get some chunkies from the pan of the carb 3rd from left... all others were fine
 
and the carbs were rebuilt mid last summer... full tear down... pain in my as$
 
On some level it probably did what it's supposed to do. It broke some deposits loose which then clogged the carb.
 
well at least I am not the only one who thought that...^^^ I thought I was a little optimistic
 
sounds like a plan the test will be in the morning when I go to work... that is when it throws a temper tantrum, i don't think my bike is a morning bike like me i hate mornings

I ran a bottle of Lucas thru my car and it didn't hurt anything - but the car ran fine before too. I've used Stabil for years in stored cars always with full gas tanks and all manner of vehicles with great success. Never drained it out just ran the engine come spring no problems.

I used Seafoam recently with great success but/and it loosened up rust so fine it went thru the petcock screen and got into the carb bowls. Also the drain bolts on my carbs were rusted on the tips and when I really got on it lowering the gas level it would suck crude into the carb and the bike would run rough at 3-4k but idled great and under full throttle was okay. Once I put a filter between the tank and the carbs, replaced the rusty drain bolts and flushed the bowls using the prime setting 3 times into a white plastic cap...all is now well. Didn't have to rebuild the carbs and that was 2000mi ago:) Even a pro GSer said I didn't need to with kit in hand.

Got the valves adjusted, carbs synched and will leave the pre filter on to keep any more rust from getting into the carbs. The things one learns the hard way will always stay with us.

Good luck in the morning.
 
well i ran a 32 oz bottle through my explorer at one time and it helped tremensly... but bike engines are a little more high preformance and tighter specs... so i thought it would effect the engine differently...
 
On some level it probably did what it's supposed to do. It broke some deposits loose which then clogged the carb.
That's what happened. If you ran several tanks through it the additive is long gone. Pull the pita carbs and clean them again.
 
I was afraid someone would say that, I am really anal when it comes to my carbs so to clean them means taking each one apart setting aside the O-rings and scrub them with cleaner ( kerosine with hi-test fuel) cuts shat pretty good, and don't forget the good ol' spray cleaner in a can... it means 4+ hours of work PER carb... Quality time with Mr.Toothbrush
 
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