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Machine Shop Question

Do NOT get a copper gasket if you care about oil tightness. Copper is for race engines where a little weepage is acceptable.

I was wondering why I'd never heard someone suggest it before, lol. Thanks Nessism.
 
Measuring the bores to see whether there is any 'out of roundness'/egg-shaped wear is highly recommended:I don't own an inside micrometer..
I had used a 3-stone spring loaded hone and done a quick glaze-braking in the past on many cylinders and installed new rings.A few of those engines started using oil even with new rings.A bore job is more expensive but if there is elliptical/out-of-round wear in the bores,this will give you back a fully round bore and the rings will break-in nice and you'll have plenty of excellent,consistent compression/ring sealing:the rebuild will last a long time.;) I would love to have a shop with machinist tools including a precision 4-stone hone such as an expensive Sunnen.. for now I live in a cheap apartment so I bring my parts to a professional machinist and pay the $.

If the piston clearance is to great, or if the cylinders are out of round then new rings can be futile. I do always tell people to scrub their bores with a brush, and a strong detergent after honing. Then you dry them with heat, like a hair drier and oil them down to prevent rust. Washing the cylinder with just solvent can leave behind abrasive residue, and that is a death sentence for a ring job.

I was wondering why I'd never heard someone suggest it before, lol. Thanks Nessism.
One thing I didn't see mentioned is if you can still see hone marks in the cylinders you don't have much to worry about in the cylinder wear department. Lots of good stuff in this thread, it'd always great when you can draw on others experience.
 
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