manifold boots came off but found something, please help

[Anonymous]

1980 GS850GL
I was sucessful in getting the manifold boots off with alot of cursing and a 1/4 can of pb. lol

I found that the o-rings were has hard as rocks and one had a piece miss out of it just like the photo. So thank you for all your help.

I have a couple questions:

1) It says use high temp grease when putting this back together. Does this go in the groove when putting in o-rings or on the surface that will make contact when putting the bolts back in (replacing screws)?

2) It says torque at 6 lbs, My torques lowest # is 20 lbs. so is it just snug and no muscling it?

Now for the bad news. When taking the airbox and boots off carb. The carb on the left (#1) was leaking gas into the airbox. (Another culprit to hard starts and not idling). I just rebuilt it and then took it to have it sync and they took it apart to make sure I did it right (i am a women and the mechanic said women don't know how to do this type of thing) so i do not know what they did. I am assuming that the jet under the main jet is the culprit? If I am right why would it do this. I did not open it up this even figured I would come in and ask questions they go back at it tomorrow night when i get home.

Thanks cj

 

[earlfor]

Re: manifold boots came off but found something, please help

Just smear a little grease on the rubber "O" rings with your finger. A little too much wont hurt anything, so you dont have to worry about it. Just smear em eup. You can coat the bolts with a little grease or anti seize also. It will help to make them easier to remove the next time.

My torque wrench doesnt go down to 6 ft lb either. Just use a small wrench or a 1/4" drive ratchet and snug them down with about the same force it takes to pick up a 12 pack of pepsi. Its worked for me a long time.

As for taking your carb apart because it was rebuilt by a woman...........
well, I have to admit that frosts me. The best person on this site at rebuilding and tuning carbs is a woman. If you carb was seeping fuel. there are only two possibilities. The float level was set too high, or the "O" ring beneath the fuel inlet valve in the float bowl needed replacing.
(in the float bowl, there is a float needle that the float pushes against to close the valve which stop fuel from entering the bowl. The needle drops into a brass insert. The insert is a mild press fit. Removing the insert, you will find that the insert sits on a small "O" ring. When the float needle drops into the brass insert, it is this small "O" ring that is the fuel inlet seal.
Its common for someone not to know these little "O" rings are there.
If you missed this one, dont feel bad. Most of the "know it all" mechs dont know about them either.

Also, if you can rebuild your own carbs, then you certainly can do you own
vacuum carb synch. No reason to pay someone to do the easy stuff.

Earl

1980 GS850GL


I have a couple questions:

1) It says use high temp grease when putting this back together. Does this go in the groove when putting in o-rings or on the surface that will make contact when putting the bolts back in (replacing screws)?

2) It says torque at 6 lbs, My torques lowest # is 20 lbs. so is it just snug and no muscling it?

Now for the bad news. When taking the airbox and boots off carb. The carb on the left (#1) was leaking gas into the airbox. (Another culprit to hard starts and not idling). I just rebuilt it and then took it to have it sync and they took it apart to make sure I did it right (i am a women and the mechanic said women don't know how to do this type of thing) so i do not know what they did. I am assuming that the jet under the main jet is the culprit? If I am right why would it do this. I did not open it up this even figured I would come in and ask questions they go back at it tomorrow night when i get home.

Thanks cj

 

[Anonymous]

manifold boots came off but found something, please help

I only took it to have it sync as I did not have the sync tool. Yes it frosted me quite a bit. As I was a mechanic in the service for 11 years.

thank you i will check the o-ring that you speak of. I do remember putting one on the needle when I installed it under the float. But I do not know if something got moved or missed when they felt they had to see what I did

Now that I will have the manifold leak fixed and hopefully the carb leak, will I need to have it re-synced?

also it looks like they set the air pilot out 1 1/2 turns and the book calls for 3 1/2. Is 3 1/2 really what I want? And do I need to put those guards back in that is suppose to prevent people from messing with them? the reason I asked is if you need to adjust my screwdriver does not fit with them in there.

thank you so much for your help. :wink:

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

cj, the vacuum synch wouldn't be accurate with an intake leak present. The vacuum synch must be done again.
I don't know what your model calls for regarding the mixture screw settings, but for a stock motor, 3 1/2 turns out seems too far (too rich). 1 1/2 to 2 turns is more common. Test the bike at 2 turns out and see if you have any starting or low speed complaints. Keep a record when you begin any adjustments so you can return them if you don't like the results. The "tamper caps" don't need to be replaced.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Re: manifold boots came off but found something, please help

The best person on this site at rebuilding and tuning carbs is a woman.

Who are you talking about Earl?

 

[Anonymous]

air mix

air mix

I don't know what your model calls for regarding the mixture screw settings, but for a stock motor, 3 1/2 turns out seems too far (too rich).

Would being too rich also make it hard to start? thanks cj

 

[Hoomgar]

Re: manifold boots came off but found something, please help

The best person on this site at rebuilding and tuning carbs is a woman.

Who are you talking about Earl?

Peppermint Pattie I believe

 

[scotty]

Re: manifold boots came off but found something, please help

The best person on this site at rebuilding and tuning carbs is a woman.

Who are you talking about Earl?

My guess is the Bunny MAYBE PMINT TOO BUT I KNOW JANET WAS DOING HERS A COUPLE OF YEARS BACK. TOUGH CHICK THAT JAN

 

[earlfor]

Re: manifold boots came off but found something, please help

A leaking float needle has no effect on carb vacuum synch. An intake manifold leak would not have any effect on carb synch on the airbox side, but there would be an effect on the engine side of the intake. How much would depend on how much of a leak. You may, or may not need to resynch the carbs. to be safe, its probably best to recheck them for vacuum levels. It would have an effect on the required mixture adjustment. Since vacuum synch is balancing flow and leaks usually are of a small volume, I would not expect there to be a large change in the balance between the carbs. However, a synch should be within 1 cm between all four carbs, so at least recheck.

If 3 1/2 is what the book calls for, I would go with that if you have a stock airbox and exhaust system. If pods and aftermarket, I dont know exactly what the setting should be. Most CV carbs (the ones with the tops that look like little upside down pots and have four hold down screws on the pots) have a mixture screw on the top front induction tube between the carb and cylinder head. Standard setting for the mixture is about 3-3/12 turns out. The airscrews for these carbs are on the side between the carb and airbox (inside the boots)

You ask about putting the plugs/guards back in. It is only the mixture screws that have the plugs/guards. No, there is no need to reinstall the plugs/guards. Just set the screws to what the book says. Resettting the mixture screws will not require re synching.

Earl

I only took it to have it sync as I did not have the sync tool. Yes it frosted me quite a bit. As I was a mechanic in the service for 11 years.

thank you i will check the o-ring that you speak of. I do remember putting one on the needle when I installed it under the float. But I do not know if something got moved or missed when they felt they had to see what I did

Now that I will have the manifold leak fixed and hopefully the carb leak, will I need to have it re-synced?

also it looks like they set the air pilot out 1 1/2 turns and the book calls for 3 1/2. Is 3 1/2 really what I want? And do I need to put those guards back in that is suppose to prevent people from messing with them? the reason I asked is if you need to adjust my screwdriver does not fit with them in there.

thank you so much for your help. :wink:

 

[earlfor]

Re: manifold boots came off but found something, please help

Well Keitheretta, if it makes you feel better, you're a close 2nd.

Earl

The best person on this site at rebuilding and tuning carbs is a woman.

Who are you talking about Earl?

 

[earlfor]

Re: air mix

Re: air mix

Not usually, a little on the rich side normally makes it easier to start.

Earl

I don't know what your model calls for regarding the mixture screw settings, but for a stock motor, 3 1/2 turns out seems too far (too rich).

Would being too rich also make it hard to start? thanks cj

 

[earlfor]

Re: manifold boots came off but found something, please help

Nope Scotty, no pepperoni for you old fella.

Earl

My guess is the Bunny MAYBE PMINT TOO BUT I KNOW JANET WAS DOING HERS A COUPLE OF YEARS BACK. TOUGH CHICK THAT JAN

 

[earlfor]

Re: manifold boots came off but found something, please help

Sorry Mark, no beer for you for 30 days.

Earl

Peppermint Pattie I believe

 

[Anonymous]

manifold boots came off but found something, please help

If 3 1/2 is what the book calls for, I would go with that if you have a stock airbox and exhaust system.

My airbox is stock and i replaced the megaphone mufflers with extra long reverse cone megaphone muffler. Would these mufflers make that big of difference on the mixture (sorry for giving wrong term I did mean mixture and not air)? they are probably 2 inches longer than the stock ones.

the Air mixture ones are just snugged down correct? no turning out on these correct? thanks cj

 

[earlfor]

Re: manifold boots came off but found something, please help

I doubt replacing the megaphones would make a big difference to mixture settings as mixture settings are predominately idle range adjustments. Some slight "tweaking" may be in order, but it shouldnt cause a problem.

The "air mixture" ones are not mixture settings. They are just pilot air jets, and there is no needle to adjust. Just snug them down lightly.

Earl

If 3 1/2 is what the book calls for, I would go with that if you have a stock airbox and exhaust system.

My airbox is stock and i replaced the megaphone mufflers with extra long reverse cone megaphone muffler. Would these mufflers make that big of difference on the mixture (sorry for giving wrong term I did mean mixture and not air)? they are probably 2 inches longer than the stock ones.

the Air mixture ones are just snugged down correct? no turning out on these correct? thanks cj

 

[Anonymous]

idle stop adjustment knob??? & carb sync

idle stop adjustment knob??? & carb sync

1) the Idle stop adjustment. Where is the starting point on it to be set? or is there a starting point?

2) is there instructions on how to sync the carbs when I am done and what tool(s) i will need? thanks cj

 

[earlfor]

Re: idle stop adjustment knob??? & carb sync

Re: idle stop adjustment knob??? & carb sync

For the idle stop knob, I normally turn the knob in until it makes contact with the plate and will begin to move the linkage. At that point, I turn it in about two turns as a starting point, then start the bike, and adjust as needed. There really is no spec starting point. Just turn it in or out until you get the idle rpm you want. That is usually around 11-1200.

To synch the carbs, you will need a set of mercury stix and a 5 mm allen wrench to unscrew the vacuum plugs on the intake minifolds. You can get a mercury stix from cyclerecyle (crc2online catalog)

There isnt any itemized list of steps that I know of for synching carbs. If you decide to do your own, when you are ready, just give a yell and we will walky you through it while youre in the process. The first couple of times, it probably will seem a bit confusing, but trust me, it gets much easier with little practice. It only takes me about 5 minutes on average to synch a bank of carbs.
http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm

Earl

 

[Anonymous]

where do you find a measuring rule for floats?

where do you find a measuring rule for floats?

Does anyone know what the float should be set at? With car carb kits it comes with a gauge to check float but motorcycle one did not. Where do I find? thanks and I think I am done bothering you until its together with either good news or bad. lol thanks cj

 

[earlfor]

Re: where do you find a measuring rule for floats?

Re: where do you find a measuring rule for floats?

I dont have a book on an 80 850GL, but being an 80, I will assume it has CV carbs. Commonly, CV carb float levels are set to 21 to 23mm. The height is measured with the carb upside down with the float tang resting on the float needle assembly which will be holding it in the closed position. The distance is
measured from the float bowl gasket surface of the carb body (without a gasket in place) to the top of the float. I usually just cut a stiff piece of cardboard or a corner off a note card making the "guage" an L shaped piece of cardboard.

Its not a bother at all. It wouldnt be much of a tech section if no one had a question. LOL Anything at all, feel free to jump in here.

Earl



quote="cjexotic"]Does anyone know what the float should be set at? With car carb kits it comes with a gauge to check float but motorcycle one did not. Where do I find? thanks and I think I am done bothering you until its together with either good news or bad. lol thanks cj[/quote]

 

[Anonymous]

ok mm to cm

ok mm to cm

are there 10 mm to a cenimeter? cj