manifold boots came off but found something, please help

[dgeorge]

Re: ok mm to cm

Re: ok mm to cm

are there 10 mm to a cenimeter? cj

yes. Also if you have an inch pound torque wrench 6' pounds = 72" pounds.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Re: manifold boots came off but found something, please help

Well Keitheretta, if it makes you feel better, you're a close 2nd.

Earl

The best person on this site at rebuilding and tuning carbs is a woman.

Who are you talking about Earl?

Keitheretta?? 8O :? OK, Earleen.
Close second? Not possible. At least on the rebuilding part.
As for tuning, I'm sure some others have more knowledge with a greater variety of carbs and models, so if that makes me second...

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

cj, a little more info regarding preparing for a carb synch.
Get a couple of fans. Don't over-heat the motor if it takes you a while, being new to synching?
For the fuel supply, I use the gas tank sitting on my workmate bench. You'll need some extra fuel (5/16") and vacuum line if you do this. Others use a small reservoir for the fuel and hang it on the bars.
Warm up the bike first, then attach the vacuum tool. After observing the initial levels, it's generally easier to adjust the higher vacuum level(s) down, to match the lower ones.
Going by the book, the ignition timing and valve clearances must be correct to get the most accurate synch too.

 

[earlfor]

Re: manifold boots came off but found something, please help

Well, its either 2nd or 3rd. I'm not sure.

Earl

Close second? Not possible. At least on the rebuilding part.
As for tuning, I'm sure some others have more knowledge with a greater variety of carbs and models, so if that makes me second...

 

[Anonymous]

can't find why its leaking

can't find why its leaking

in the float bowl, there is a float needle that the float pushes against to close the valve which stop fuel from entering the bowl. The needle drops into a brass insert. The insert is a mild press fit. Removing the insert, you will find that the insert sits on a small "O" ring. When the float needle drops into the brass insert, it is this small "O" ring that is the fuel inlet seal.

I took the carb apart and I had put the o-ring on this insert that the float needle sits in. I replaced it incase there was something wrong with it. The float is at 22mm, so that is in its range. I made sure all other jets were ok and where they belonged. I put it back together yesterday to only have it to still be leaking. It is together like the other 4 (as I took them apart again to check). The other three are find but number 1 wants to dribble.

Any other suggestions :?:
thanks cj

 

[Hoomgar]

Re: manifold boots came off but found something, please help

Sorry Mark, no beer for you for 30 days.

Earl

Peppermint Pattie I believe

All right then Earl, tell us who it is man! Come on! Please :lol: :wink:

 

[Hoomgar]

Re: manifold boots came off but found something, please help

As for tuning, I'm sure some others have more knowledge with a greater variety of carbs and models, so if that makes me second...

This is the sole reason I bought the bike I did. Just because I knew it had the carbs on it that Keith specialized in :lol:

 

[ptm]

Re: can't find why its leaking

Re: can't find why its leaking

I put it back together yesterday to only have it to still be leaking. It is together like the other 4 (as I took them apart again to check). The other three are find but number 1 wants to dribble.

Any other suggestions :?:
thanks cj

Is it leaking through the vent/overflow hose? I had that happen after doing a complete carb rebuild. The first time it happened I took them off again and replaced the needle and seat on that carb. When I put them back on another one started doing it. I tapped the bowl of the offending carb with a block of wood or screwdriver handle and that 'fixed' it. I think the float had become slightly cocked in the process of putting the carbs back on and the tapping was enough to get it unstuck. Worth a try, and and you can quickly see if it works, just don't hit it too hard.

 

[Hoomgar]

Cj, do you maybe have a worn float needle or needle seat? Your saying it is leaking gas right? If you have even the smallest particle of anything in the float needle area it will stop the needle from shutting off the gas. Has anyone asked you to check your petcock to see if it is shutting off correctly when the engine is not running?

 

[Anonymous]

can't find why its leaking

can't find why its leaking

ok, 1st its leaking out the boot into the air cleaner.
I will try taping on the carb bowl to see if the float stuck when putting carb on.

2nd: It is a total rebuild except for the jet(?) directly under the main jet.
When I took the carb off to see why it was leaking I took the needle seat out and put on another new o-ring and used air to blow it out to make sure nothing got in there. then put the needle back in and then the float.
I measured the float in case I put a finger on it and took it out of line when putting it back together but it is in its tolerance level.

I will try this taping on the bowl when I get home. Makes sense that it could have gotten stuck while putting it back on.

cj

 

[Hoomgar]

Also make sure you have a good fuel filter inline. If you have any sediment in your tank it will be at the bottom where you do not see it. You hook it back up and immediately you get dirt particles back into your carbs and those float needles is the first place they go!

I say this because this happened to me. Twice. I now use a fuel filter. Just something else to check.

 

[Anonymous]

fuel filter

fuel filter

yes i did do that. Since I could not replace the one in the tank. I put in a in-line. Yes I did get a lot of goo out of the carbs when I rebuilt them. I am surprised she ran at all. Now she wants to give me grief and she is all new again. lol

 

[earlfor]

Re: can't find why its leaking

Re: can't find why its leaking

If its leaking out of the boot into the air cleaner, I suspect the petcock is leaking. There would be no leak into the air cleaner even if the float needle valve was leaking because there would be no flow in the first place.

To verify the petcock is leaking, you can disconnect the fuel line from it to the carbs at the petcock. Put a short spare piece of line on the petcock and the open end into a cup. Leave it overnight and see whats in the cup the next day.

Earl

ok, 1st its leaking out the boot into the air cleaner.
I will try taping on the carb bowl to see if the float stuck when putting carb on.

2nd: It is a total rebuild except for the jet(?) directly under the main jet.
When I took the carb off to see why it was leaking I took the needle seat out and put on another new o-ring and used air to blow it out to make sure nothing got in there. then put the needle back in and then the float.
I measured the float in case I put a finger on it and took it out of line when putting it back together but it is in its tolerance level.

I will try this taping on the bowl when I get home. Makes sense that it could have gotten stuck while putting it back on.

cj

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Re: can't find why its leaking

Re: can't find why its leaking

If its leaking out of the boot into the air cleaner, I suspect the petcock is leaking. There would be no leak into the air cleaner even if the float needle valve was leaking because there would be no flow in the first place.

Earl, it could be the petcock as you say and I test for a leaking petcock just like you said, but don't rule out the float assembly/float valve still leaking. I've seen many bikes with a good petcock leak at #1 carb. They can leak because after shut off, there's enough fuel in the fuel line and fuel passages to the float chambers to overflow the bowl. Carb #1 being the lowest, is the most common one to leak. They sometimes leak for no apparent reason.
Now if the leak just continues beyond the amount that can be in the fuel line/passages, then it's a leaking petcock.

 

[alan]

I'm aking careful notes here since this is going to be my Saturday. 3rd time's a charm I hope. This will be the full strip and dip treatment though. :!:

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

cj, if you take the float and shake it, can you hear/feel/see any fuel? Just want to be sure the float isn't ruptured. You can submerge it in fuel and test. Any bubbles when it's held under?
If you've checked everything (including the petcock leak test) and you're at a dead end, try swapping the entire float assemblies of carb #1 with carb #4. This means the float, the float pin, float valve and its own seat (always keep together as a set.)
If you have a short screwdriver for the bowl screws, you can do this with the carbs on the bike. Of course, depending on your float/float valve design, you need decent finger dexterity to re-install the float valve and get the float and its pin back on. If you try this, put down a large towel so parts don't get lost.
Swapping parts has worked before when there's no apparent reason for a fuel leak. A float can move more smoothly just because it's moved.
You know carb #4 parts are fine, so #1 carb should stop leaking. If #4 starts leaking, then you know you have something wrong with those part(s).

 

[first timer]

i think we need to get a carb cleaning and setup competion going, we can have it at the national meeting ....... keith and earl you play nice.

cj i think they are showing off for you. lol.

take it easy,

-ryan

 

[Hoomgar]

i think we need to get a carb cleaning and setup competion going, we can have it at the national meeting ....... keith and earl you play nice.

cj i think they are showing off for you. lol.

take it easy,

-ryan

I'm up for it :lol:

 

[Anonymous]

well were up and running finally

well were up and running finally

Well guys showing off or not all the excellant advice paid off. Yes and also a block of wood and trusty hammer and some cursing also helped.

Now just one more thing. I had and awful time getting it started as the "so called mechanic had the idol stop adjustment way out there. Guess he had to do that since I had a intake leak (he did not pick up on) to keep her running. Well after and hour and a half turning little by little she finally started running on her own with throttle response (had problem could get it to start but as soon as I hit the trottle the slightest she died).

Well this morning I decided to take her to work (if she'd start) and WooHoo the first time in 3 years she started on a day that the temp was below 55 without a shot of starting fluid.
I set the idle last night to about 1100 rpms (higher than I had normally had it). It was late and I warmed her up but maybe not long enough.

I went about 2 1/2 miles stopped for gas and idle was the same. the travelled another 40 miles and when I stopped at the stop sign (first stop since I left gas station) she was at 2000 rpms. Now when I got to work I back the idle stop until it was at 1000 rpms. Now I will not get to try again until my lunch. But could the change be that I had not warmed it up enough before when I set it? Other than that she runs top notch for a bike with 55,000 with no work on her but the carb and new valve cover gasket and breather gasket.

Just so you know I did replace the o-rings in the intake boots and I made sure the clamps were tight when i got to work.

thanks for all the help in getting my ride running again.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

cj, with the idle turned back down, I'm guessing that when you try to re-start at lunchtime, the bike won't start easily, if at all. Higher outside temps will help some.
The classic example of an intake leak between the carb and motor, is this: the bike idles around 1,000 rpm's at cold start up. After the motor is completely warmed up (hot) the idle is much higher (such as 2,000 rpm's.) You lower the idle by turning down the adjuster knob. It idles fine again at 1,000. You turn off the bike and it completely cools. The next time you try to start, the idle adjuster must go back to where it was at the initial cold start. This cycle goes on and on.
What are your mixture screws set at?