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Master cylinder alternatives

  • Thread starter Thread starter Brianjonesphoto
  • Start date Start date
B

Brianjonesphoto

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I think I just tracked down the source of my brake problems!!! There was a large pit in the bore of my MC down stream of the return hole. I bet this is where the pressure has be going. I don't know how I missed it what I put the new piston kit in.

This brings me to my question. Is there reason that I couldn't put a bandit or SV Master/lever on my bike? Do they use the same type brake switch? Are there different bar diameters or banjo bolt sizes? Is there a master cylinder from a specific bike that will work better that something else?

Thanks
 
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The good news is that many bikes use master cylinders that are compatible with our GS machines.

For example, I have a Kawasaki GPz item on my Kat1100, and it's excellent. There is no way I would go back to the standard master cylinder.

Don't worry about differing brake switches. In fact, changing from the standard stone-age GS arrangement to something with a REAL switch is a great improvement.

Handle-bar diameters and banjo bolt sizes should all be the same.
 
As tbf said, there are probably many other master cyclinders that will be compatible. Identifying which ones may be the problem. I was looking at replacing mine, and talked to the dealer about it. He said he didn't stock any, and he wasn't going to order any so that I could see if they would work! He did suggest that I go the the local bike salvage yard (Bent Bike) and have a look throurgh their stock of used MC's.

I found where to get new Yamaha types that would work, except the threads for the mirror mount are reversed. You also want to get the same piston bore diameter that your current one has.

As I mentioned on the other thread, I replaced my brake light switch with one I saw mentioned on another thread. It works great, and never needs adjustment. Now is the time to put one in, if you want to do it. http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=&productId=p210370&leafCatId=&mmyId==

One other note on brake bleeding. I went for a ride yesterday, and the brake lever felt even firmer. Very good now. Very little lever travel required. Can air work it's way out of parts of the system just by riding? :confused:
 
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I've got GSX600F Katana levers, master cylinder, and controls on my '83 ES. The master's great since it comes with an adjustable lever.


The major difference in the master cylinder was that it takes a different type brake light switch - standard lug-type instead of the slider-type on the GS's. This switch is way less prone to failure. There was also one ground wire from the GS harness plug that was a separate wire from the Katana plug. I simply pulled the wire from the GS plug, crimped a bullet-connector on it and plugged it into the Katana wires as a separate connection. I just can't remember if it was from the right or left side switchgear....


I got an entire front controls assembly from the Katana - triple cover, bars, controls, master and calipers for about $60.00 on eBay, IIRC. Turned around and sold the parts I couldn't use (triple cover, bars, and calipers) for more than I paid for the whole lot.



-Q!
 
Brianjonesphoto said:
I think I just tracked down the source of my brake problems!!! There was a large pit in the bore of my MC down stream of the return hole. I bet this is where the pressure has be going. I don't know how I missed it what I put the new piston kit in.

This brings me to my question. Is there reason that I couldn't put a bandit or SV Master/lever on my bike? Do they use the same type brake switch? Are there different bar diameters or banjo bolt sizes? Is there a master cylinder from a specific bike that will work better that something else?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Most all japaneese bikes use brakes manufactured by Nissin. All's you need to do is match the piston bore dia., and have a m/c that is set up for a M10 banjo bolt. Doesnt really matter weather its a GS, or KZ or FJ...... (until you snap a brake lever, then obviously you need to know what it was bike it came from.
 
I've got an older Ninja MC on mine with the adjustable brake lever. Everything bolted up fine, I just cut the wires at the old brake switch and crimped/heat shrink connectors for the new switch. Looks a lot better than the old plastic reservior one. And rebuild kits are a lot easier to find. Scored mine on Ebay for a whopping $9 INCLUDING the lines and front four-piston calipers. I may eventually try to modify the calipers to fit my 750 once I get it on the road.
 
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