Metallic noise at idle, and choke lever issue

[motoleo]

Hi, I am a neewbie here and I just given a 82 GS450A (automatic) with shaft drive that is in very nice condition (photo attached). In fact its hard to believe but the odometer reads 34,700 miles on it but by looking at the bike you would never think it has that many miles on it. But who really knows what it really has as the guy I got the bike from bought it from an estate and never got it running as his wife told him to get rid of it.

Anyway to my first major problem. After charging the battery the bike started up fine after pulling on the end of the hanging choke cable and ran smooth and quiet as could be until it was fully warmed up. After it was fully warmed up there is a metallic slapping like sound which at first I thought was a piston or bearing noise but as soon as you give it some gas the noise goes away.

I sought the advise of a mechanic friend of mine and using a s long screw driver he diagnosed it as coming from the cam chain area at the top center rear area of the engine. He seems to think the problem is the cam chain adjuster or cam chain itself.

How can I diagnose or adjust? How hard is it to replace the cam chain? Any suggestions?

Second problem is the choke cable, It is just cable tied to the handle bars and has a screw type cable end on it to grab and to work the choke you just pull and hold the cable end. I'm not sure what the end of the cable is supposed to attach to as there is nothing that resembles a lever or pull knob bracket, etc on the handle bar. Anyone have a photo of what it looks like for my bike?

I have some other issues like no blinking turn signals which is probably the flasher and front caliper seems to be holding the brake on. Also, any suggestions for tires for this bike?

 

[almarconi]

In general the cam chain will stretch some over the life of the chain. It is possible the guides are worn. Sometimes the cam chain adjuster will need to be taken apart and cleaned. If you take the valve cover off you should be able to look at the cam chain. Removing the cam chain usually requires splitting the cases since the chain is continuous. Replacement chains with master links are available on some cam chains. I'm not that familiar with the engine in your bike. Do you have a shop manual?

Have you had the valve cover off to check the valves? May want to check that nothing is loose in the valve train.

Check the parts diagram for your bike on one of the online sites to get a picture of the choke mechanism. It will also probably be shown in the service manual.

I have some other issues like no blinking turn signals which is probably the flasher

Could be the flasher or a dirty turn signal switch. Could also be a bulb, bad ground. Get a wiring diagram and trace the circuit.

front caliper seems to be holding the brake on

Take it apart and clean it. More than likely its got rust in the bore. What color is your brake fluid?

Good luck on your project

 

[mighty13d]

Sell it to me? :lol:


Ok, so all kidding aside, you came to the right place. post up where you are from and that way maybe someone in the area can come and take a look at it if anyone is close enough.

The first issue does sound like the cam chain tensioner isn't working/adjusted properly. Don't forget to adjust the valves. that definitely should be done.

The blinkers could just be a faulty connection. You should check all the connections to make sure none are corroded before you start replacing things. A few min of going over the bike could save you some money.

The brakes probably need to be rebuilt. It's really easy and bikecliff will be along to give you a proper welcome and links to his wonderful database. He should have just about anything you will need to know on there.


Keep us posted on the status of your bike though. We are always interested in how things are going! and don't forget to throw up lots of pics!

 

[motoleo]

Took off the valve cover and couldn't tell if anything is really wrong. Everything looked clean and chain seemed tight. Top guide on valve cover was fine with no wear marks. I guess my next move is to check the valve clearances. If OK there then I'll remove the chain tensioner.

The factory shop manual really isn't much help as it is really for engine dismantling and rebuild ant not to fix things alone on the bike.

Can the chain tensioner be removed without taking the carbs off?

Also I'm going to need a new valve cover gasket and the one for the top breather cover on the valve cover. Any good sources besides ordering from the dealer?

BTW, I did remove the caliper and that was what was binding the front wheel so I may need a source for a rebuild kit as well if cleaning it up doesn't work.

Thanks

Lenny

 

[almarconi]

The factory shop manual really isn't much help as it is really for engine dismantling and rebuild ant not to fix things alone on the bike.

It is the best source for repair information. The one for my bike gives a detailed procedure for removal, inspection and installation of the cam chain tensioner. The factory manual is much better than a haynes or chilton manual.

Can the chain tensioner be removed without taking the carbs off?

Maybe..how small are your hands? If you haven't cleaned them recently, you might as well take them off anyway.

BTW, I did remove the caliper and that was what was binding the front wheel so I may need a source for a rebuild kit as well if cleaning it up doesn't work.

While your at it, take the master cylinder apart and clean it. It is also a good idea to replace the old brake lines. Brakes are not the place you want to cut corners.

 

[motoleo]

It is the best source for repair information. The one for my bike gives a detailed procedure for removal, inspection and installation of the cam chain tensioner. The factory manual is much better than a haynes or chilton manual.

I agree for the inspection and installation of the cam chain tensioner. I tried to find a prcedure for replacing the cam chain itself and there is nothing. I'm really hoping it doesn't need replacement.

Can the chain tensioner be removed without taking the carbs off? Maybe..how small are your hands? If you haven't cleaned them recently, you might as well take them off anyway.

My hands are average and I've got plenty of different sized tools. The bike and carbs seemed to run just fine so I'd rather leave them alone.

While your at it, take the master cylinder apart and clean it. It is also a good idea to replace the old brake lines. Brakes are not the place you want to cut corners.

Good idea. Thanks for all the help.

 

[bmac]

450gad suzukimatic

450gad suzukimatic

Hi Lenny, read your thread about your problems on your 450. First off. nice score on the suzukimatic. I have (2) and they were...... in pretty bad shape. Alot of missing parts and half a$$ed retrofitted with parts from Honda and what ever PO 's got there hands on. I had bought them and did off frame restores on them and searched high and low for parts to bring these back to originals. Today they are in terrific condition. One has 3400miles and the other has 13000 miles. I would say first, gaskets are dealer item ordering them, you could get them from Bike Bandit, Flatout, with parts shark is a great source with very good prices. Drop your carbs, and clean them esp. your pilot jet. Adjust your valves per specs. remove your cam chain tensioner (clean) reinstall and find a choke thumb lever. They are standard for most models.
While you are at it, purchase O' rings for the head intake boots and a carb accelerator pump diaphram. Other orings you can get from Robert Barr. The other items (electric) may be bulb's or contacts. Good luck, you have your work cutout for you. There is always ebay for parts that are not made anymore. The 450 gad is a bike by itself for most parts. Do not expect to interchange many parts off a 450 t,L or any other model. Bmac

 

[motoleo]

Hi Lenny, read your thread about your problems on your 450. First off. nice score on the suzukimatic. I have (2) and they were...... in pretty bad shape. Alot of missing parts and half a$$ed retrofitted with parts from Honda and what ever PO 's got there hands on. I had bought them and did off frame restores on them and searched high and low for parts to bring these back to originals. Today they are in terrific condition. One has 3400miles and the other has 13000 miles. I would say first, gaskets are dealer item ordering them, you could get them from Bike Bandit, Flatout, with parts shark is a great source with very good prices. Drop your carbs, and clean them esp. your pilot jet. Adjust your valves per specs. remove your cam chain tensioner (clean) reinstall and find a choke thumb lever. They are standard for most models.
While you are at it, purchase O' rings for the head intake boots and a carb accelerator pump diaphram. Other orings you can get from Robert Barr. The other items (electric) may be bulb's or contacts. Good luck, you have your work cutout for you. There is always ebay for parts that are not made anymore. The 450 gad is a bike by itself for most parts. Do not expect to interchange many parts off a 450 t,L or any other model. Bmac

Thanks for the info and encouragement...I'll keep you all posted on my progress although its tough finding time during the week to work on it.

 

[motoleo]

Thanks for the info and encouragement...I'll keep you all posted on my progress although its tough finding time during the week to work on it.

Well I started off by trying to see if the valves were out of adjustment and and check the cam chain and guides which seemed clean, not worn or grooved and OK after taking the valve cover off. I did try and check the valve settings but I couldn't seem to get the .03mm (or was it .003??) feeler gauge between the bucket/shim and cam lobe in the positions indicated in the service manual.

Next I tried this technique for testing the cam chain tensioner:

While turning the knob counterclock-wise, slowly rotate the crankshaft in reverse direction, counterclock-wise. This causes the chain to push the pushrod back.

Release the knob and slowly turn the crankshaft in the normal direction, clockwise. You should see the knob rotate as the chain becomes progressively tighter. If it does the pushrod is obviously moving forward under spring pressure signifying the tensioner is in good operable condition.

The tensioner knob was not moving at all. I removed the tensioner and it was all locked up and the knob wouldn't turn even after loosening the lock nut and turning the set screw. I found a good used on on ebay and installed it and tried the test again and all seemed well.

Now my question is why can I not get the smallest setting feeler gauge (.03 mm) under any of the valves? Am I doing something wrong?

 

[motoleo]

Success!!!! And some new problems.

Success!!!! And some new problems.

Received new valve cover and put it on with new breather cover. Put battery in and gas tank back on and she started right up. Let it run for a while and it settled down to normal idle and no noise at any ngine speed.

Replaced the old caliper with a used on and now have front brakes. Rear brake pedal seems to be sticking...must pull back on lever at rear wheel after using rear brake pedal to free and there is also a click after releasing. I will wait until spring when I replace the tires to address the brake problem ....but are there any suggestions what to look for?

I did take the bike out for a short run around the neighborhood and it seems to run great. I need to replace the choke cable and parking brake cable (both are broken) and probably the turn signal relay as the turn signals work with the switch but do not flash.

Also, I seem to have a problem with the headlight...low beam switch location seem to show high beams and high beam switch location the low beam. Any suggestions?

 

[Steve]

I did try and check the valve settings but I couldn't seem to get the .03mm (or was it .003??) feeler gauge between the bucket/shim and cam lobe in the positions indicated in the service manual.

Well, the FIRST thing you need to do is to figure out whether you are using INCH or METRIC feelers,
because one of those measurements is the MAXIMUM and the other is the MNIMUM.

I would not think that cam position while measuring the clearance is quite as critical as on a four-cylinder engine, as long as the lobe is somewhat awy from the valve. If you still can't fit the smallest feeler in there, you need to change some shims. On the valves where you can't insert your smallest feeler (usually 0.03mm or 0.0015"), see if you can still rotate the bucket. If you can, you still have some clearance, so one shim size thinner might work.

You will need to record all your clearances and shim sizes to see if you can move some shims around to minimize the number you have to purchase. If you look at my sig line, you will see that I have a spreadsheet available that helps you do this. Since you only have a two-cylinder bike, I will even let you have it for half price. Everyone else that has a copy (277 users, so far, in 11 countries) has paid NOTHING for it, I will let you have your copy for half of that.

.