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might be a stupid question

  • Thread starter Thread starter kb_air
  • Start date Start date
K

kb_air

Guest
to all you guys cafe-ing out your bikes, where the hell are you hiding the battery and the battery casing? can you mod it to where it doesn't need one with a kickstart?
 
kb_air said:
to all you guys cafe-ing out your bikes, where the hell are you hiding the battery and the battery casing? can you mod it to where it doesn't need one with a kickstart?
Click to expand...

Many put it in the tail.

Yes you can mod it to not have one if you only kickstart.
 
kb_air said:
to all you guys cafe-ing out your bikes, where the hell are you hiding the battery and the battery casing? can you mod it to where it doesn't need one with a kickstart?
Click to expand...

Most are making pans and hiding them under the tail.
You cant run without a battery of some sort, as you need lights and such.
However some have found they can run with small batteries.
 
TheCafeKid said:
Most are making pans and hiding them under the tail.
You cant run without a battery of some sort, as you need lights and such.
However some have found they can run with small batteries.
Click to expand...

The bike generates enough power for the lights.
 
Saw one that used one of the newer style lithium batteries. He used one that was too small to start the bike, yet enough to run the electrics. Since those don't care about what side is up, he built a box that fit tight to the underside of the seat pan with the battery on it's side.
 
TheCafeKid said:
Most are making pans and hiding them under the tail.
You cant run without a battery of some sort, as you need lights and such.
However some have found they can run with small batteries.
Click to expand...
I beg to differ TCK as member here Beergood has his cafe bike using capacitors instead of a battery and he made his kick start only.
 
Of course you can use capacitors instead of a battery, but I would expect in some cases a capacitor that can hold a good amount of power might be close to as large as a small battery anyways.

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but if something happens and you deplete the charge in the capacitor, it's going to take longer to get it charged up than a battery. If you know your what Capacitor you're going to use you can do the equation here:

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electric/capchg.html

With the build I'm working on, I want it to look cool, but I'm not going to sacrifice reliability for that. I would sleep better at night if I'm on the road for a few days knowing I have a normal battery, even if it's smaller, and not a capacitor. Really, even better, you can use both.

What I'm doing personally is making a small tray that will connect to the frame underneath the seat to move all the electronics to. Most likely using thin aluminum or steel sheet and a bending brake. Easy, sleek, nicely tucked away.
 
kb_air said:
anyone ever use those individual pod filters?
Click to expand...
To my limited knowledge so far, many guys do use the pods. However they say to get a GS really running right the oem airbox is the way to go to get it tuned in right and have fewer problems. Many people also say the pods are really loud (sucking air and hissing) and prone to possible rain/weather issues.
 
Adler said:
The bike generates enough power for the lights.
Click to expand...
Many bikes don't.

Especially at idle with lights on and the brake on.
shrug2.gif


.
 
kb_air said:
anyone ever use those individual pod filters?
Click to expand...
You're opening a whole nother can of worms here :) . Try doing a search on this topic, there are many opinions. The general consensus seems to be if you use pods, you will need to rejet and retune the carbs to compensate for more airflow. Else you will run lean.
 
That is correct, but if you don't start with a good base, i.e a bike running as it should in stock trim, you will not hav a bench mark from which to work, if you are going to go with pods, get the bike running properly on the OEM airbox first, then do the swap over and the jetting, otherwise you will be in for a world of frustration, chasing your tail.
And use good brand name pods only, such as K&N not the Emgo rubbish.
 
Flyboy said:
That is correct, but if you don't start with a good base, i.e a bike running as it should in stock trim, you will not hav a bench mark from which to work, if you are going to go with pods, get the bike running properly on the OEM airbox first, then do the swap over and the jetting, otherwise you will be in for a world of frustration, chasing your tail.
And use good brand name pods only, such as K&N not the Emgo rubbish.
Click to expand...

i think i finally got it running perfect. does anyone know how much it affects gas millage with pods and high jets?
 
i bought a really small 12 volt and totally hollowed out that whole battery area and took the back fender off and mounted the brake light right behind my seat. looks mean already.
 
do some research,and you can use a 9volt,with a power booster of sort,then a 9volt chrger on board
or a nicad rc truck battery with chrger if there is a will there is a way:D
 
kb_air said:
anyone ever use those individual pod filters?
Click to expand...

Yes, and I don't know why everyone has such a hard time with them either.

Everything is a CFM balance, and you need to match your fuel ratio accordingly. Improved ignition insulation is recommended too, as you're essentially increasing engine power with these upgrades, spark blow-out and other misc. gremlins become more apparent.

Dyno-Jet kits are simple, and essentially plug and play.
 
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