boontonmike
Forum Mentor
Side shot as requested. Also have a bunch of updates to do tomorrow and more stuff on order that im gunna right up tomorrow when I get some more time.
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Mike R's GS550/650 bare bones street racer
- Thread starter boontonmike
- Start date
D
DMorris
Guest
Boontonmike,
I think that is great look! :clap: You don't see that everyday..... oldskool kewl.
I think that is great look! :clap: You don't see that everyday..... oldskool kewl.
boontonmike
Forum Mentor
First off thanks for the compliments guys.
I ecided to make use of my welderand had a go at making a mount for my tank. My welds look like crap but seem to be pretty solid. I pryed on it a bit with some channel locks and lifter the back end up by the mount. I went from blowin a hole in the frame that i had to weld back shut to laying a bead on the surface before I figured it out.
mount cut and welded together:
welded in place:
tank finally mounted instead of mocked up:
I might go back and lay a little more bead around the d tab where the bolt sits once I get a little more time with the welder.
I ecided to make use of my welderand had a go at making a mount for my tank. My welds look like crap but seem to be pretty solid. I pryed on it a bit with some channel locks and lifter the back end up by the mount. I went from blowin a hole in the frame that i had to weld back shut to laying a bead on the surface before I figured it out.
mount cut and welded together:
welded in place:
tank finally mounted instead of mocked up:
I might go back and lay a little more bead around the d tab where the bolt sits once I get a little more time with the welder.
boontonmike
Forum Mentor
Since I had the welder out I decided to also cut and shorten my shift linkage rod so I could finally mount that in place. Welding the rod back together went easier than the frame. I think that boils down to the fact that i was welding the same thickness materials. i layed a pretty fat bead joining the pieces and ground it back down flush.
Before:
After:
One of my rear sprockets came in (48t) 2 more on the way (45t, 46t). I also just last night order a 13t and 14t front sprocket along with a half dozen spacers so I can start working out my whol sprocket and chain setup.
Before:
After:
One of my rear sprockets came in (48t) 2 more on the way (45t, 46t). I also just last night order a 13t and 14t front sprocket along with a half dozen spacers so I can start working out my whol sprocket and chain setup.
boontonmike
Forum Mentor
First shot naked as a full rolling chassis :
150 from a rear view. Nice and fat but not too fat:
IDK if anyone notice yet or not, but there is something missing near my front wheel:
I went to town on my front top tripple:
150 from a rear view. Nice and fat but not too fat:
IDK if anyone notice yet or not, but there is something missing near my front wheel:
I went to town on my front top tripple:
boontonmike
Forum Mentor
Close up of engine , carb, and filter setup. It just fits behind the rear frame rail and the carbs and so much lighter then the factory VMs and even the CVs off the 650 head:
I'm most likely going to be raising the oil lines as suggested. I need to source out some nice 90? fitting on the cooler and it should bump them up a couple inches.
Mocking up the guages again in their new lower position. Helps fill in the large void above the low headlight and still are very visibile in riding position:
I need to get a couple more bolts and tube spacers before I can mount them solid. I'm also going to be going with a single piston built in master brake lever to help lower master and run my single disk better.
I'm most likely going to be raising the oil lines as suggested. I need to source out some nice 90? fitting on the cooler and it should bump them up a couple inches.
Mocking up the guages again in their new lower position. Helps fill in the large void above the low headlight and still are very visibile in riding position:
I need to get a couple more bolts and tube spacers before I can mount them solid. I'm also going to be going with a single piston built in master brake lever to help lower master and run my single disk better.
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D
DrunkenChekhov
Guest
Where'd your other disk go?
boontonmike
Forum Mentor
I've decided to run single disk up front. going to use my stock 550 single disk master cyl lever. I like the way it looks, it's less weight, and my drz is pretty darn fast and stops well with only a single disk the size of this bikes rear disk. I feel as it should perform more then adequite.
I plan to grind down the brake mount off that leg when I do the fork seals.
(or maybe I'm just an idiot and/or nuts
I'll let you guys decide)
S
spyug
Guest
Very nice job sir, keep it coming.
Cheers,
spyug
Cheers,
spyug
T
Tim Tom
Guest
I've decided to run single disk up front. going to use my stock 550 single disk master cyl lever. I like the way it looks, it's less weight, and my drz is pretty darn fast and stops well with only a single disk the size of this bikes rear disk. I feel as it should perform more then adequite.
I plan to grind down the brake mount off that leg when I do the fork seals.
(or maybe I'm just an idiot and/or nuts
Your drz is also quite a bit lighter. I think I'd rather have more brakes than I could use than not enough when I need them... Just my opinion.
The bike looking great though. Love the lower gauges and slimmed top triple.
boontonmike
Forum Mentor
Well, I'll find out when I get her running and let everyone know how that works out. I really think it'll be more than enough. I read up and thought alot about it. The biggest negative of single discs is brake fade under racing conditions. I should be able to stop as hard and as fast with a single setup as I would a dual setup. The only thing being the single disc setup will fade faster. But because this bike is not going to be my daily bike and will be for toying around i doubt I'll ever run the brakes hot enough to get em to fade out. I've rode my DRZ pretty hard on the streets and never had a lack of brakes. The DRZ comes in around 280 lbs. This bike shouldnt be much heavier, but I'd like to get it on a scale and see. from the feel of it I'd say 300-330 lb range
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boontonmike
Forum Mentor
Does anyone have any advice on homebending exhaust without a mandrel bender? Or know of any outfits that do mandrel bending?
T
Tim Tom
Guest
Don't know if you saw this, or if it helps or not but this thread mentions a basic idea... No details though
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=188398
Honestly I would think your better off trying to get them done professionally or do a cut and weld re-shaping yourself. This for the headers or mufflers?
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=188398
Honestly I would think your better off trying to get them done professionally or do a cut and weld re-shaping yourself. This for the headers or mufflers?
boontonmike
Forum Mentor
headers at the moment. stainless gsxr pipes that need to be modded. you can see them in som of my pics. I need to tighten two of the bends on each. its 4~2~1. once I get the headers formed the rest will need some minor reworking.
boontonmike
Forum Mentor
I was just reading that post. Seems easy enough but also a huge pain at the same time. I think I may have to wave the white flag and get some outside assistance from a shop with a high end bender.
B
brslk
Guest
boontonmike
Forum Mentor
Definatly. Those BUB exhaust just popped up out of nowhere and Im going to go with one of them in matte black. Will save me a ton of hassle.
On a side note check out my new toy. s107 mini rc, alredy modded out the ass after a day of it coming in the mail. weighs only 32 grams now. bigger and deeper tail rotor. relocated the battery lower. plastic side covers. gutted anything un needed so much fun to fly. trying to get it sub 30 grams and make it more agile:
most fun you can have for 25 shipped off ebay
On a side note check out my new toy. s107 mini rc, alredy modded out the ass after a day of it coming in the mail. weighs only 32 grams now. bigger and deeper tail rotor. relocated the battery lower. plastic side covers. gutted anything un needed so much fun to fly. trying to get it sub 30 grams and make it more agile:
most fun you can have for 25 shipped off ebay
T
Tim Tom
Guest
Good call with the BUB exhausts, certainly a nice bit of timing there.
That r/c copter looks like fun, I got my 85 year old grandfather one for Christmas last year, the look on his face was priceless. He's quite good at flying it around now and bugs my Grandmother to no end with
That r/c copter looks like fun, I got my 85 year old grandfather one for Christmas last year, the look on his face was priceless. He's quite good at flying it around now and bugs my Grandmother to no end with
boontonmike
Forum Mentor
I Finally got my new front sprockets in. Ended up going with a 13/48 setup to start with. I figured I will start out most radical and tone it down from there if I don't like it. I love the way my DRZ revs up so fast so I am trying to mimic that powerband.
I got them in and added one 1.25mm spacer behind the front sprocket then flipped the rear sprocket so the cutout pulled the sprocket in towards the tire more and it seems to have a perfect alignment now.
There is also about 1/2" give or take from hitting the swing arm. I'm a little concerned, but will see if it makes contact when I get it on the road.
I was ready to abandon the hydraulic clutch until my friend gave me a good idea on using the stock casing to mount the clutch cyl. I removed the stock cable mechanism, grinded down some of the scew mounts and ridges on the face, and lined up the hole with the clutch cyl using a socket that fit right through both. Drilled the case, bolted it down, and made a clutch rod extention. End result:
It feels beautiful. Checked the clutch action with the side cover off and everything seems to be flawless. The only remaining details are too clean up the grinding and I want to re-enforce where the cyl bolts through the case. I really like the look and feel of the whole setup.
I need to get a new lock washer and torque down the front sprocket. I have a new chain coming in the mail within the next week or two (DID 530 non Oring). The exhaust system I bought from Jim should be here middle of next week. I will keep cracking at it as time and parts come about. Starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I'm getting very used to the idea that I will be riding this bike by summer time.
I got them in and added one 1.25mm spacer behind the front sprocket then flipped the rear sprocket so the cutout pulled the sprocket in towards the tire more and it seems to have a perfect alignment now.
There is also about 1/2" give or take from hitting the swing arm. I'm a little concerned, but will see if it makes contact when I get it on the road.
I was ready to abandon the hydraulic clutch until my friend gave me a good idea on using the stock casing to mount the clutch cyl. I removed the stock cable mechanism, grinded down some of the scew mounts and ridges on the face, and lined up the hole with the clutch cyl using a socket that fit right through both. Drilled the case, bolted it down, and made a clutch rod extention. End result:
It feels beautiful. Checked the clutch action with the side cover off and everything seems to be flawless. The only remaining details are too clean up the grinding and I want to re-enforce where the cyl bolts through the case. I really like the look and feel of the whole setup.
I need to get a new lock washer and torque down the front sprocket. I have a new chain coming in the mail within the next week or two (DID 530 non Oring). The exhaust system I bought from Jim should be here middle of next week. I will keep cracking at it as time and parts come about. Starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I'm getting very used to the idea that I will be riding this bike by summer time.
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G
Guest
Guest
Mike, haven't chimed in on this yet but looking like a bunch of fun!
Just a though with your chain on your swingarm... a think piece of that plastic bread board stuff stuck on the swingarm there might be the shot to protect it from any chain slap...
Just a though with your chain on your swingarm... a think piece of that plastic bread board stuff stuck on the swingarm there might be the shot to protect it from any chain slap...
