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Modifying the shock spring perches for lowering?

  • Thread starter Thread starter isaac
  • Start date Start date
I

isaac

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I've already begun the project that I conceptualized in another thread in this forum, and am looking to surmount some technical obstacles.

I'm either going to get some handlebar risers, modify a set of bars, or put clip ons on the bike to get the handlebars out of the way of the fork so I can raise it up into the trees a good 2" or so.

What I'm looking to do in the back is a little more complicated. I could change the actual mounting points of the rear shocks to help me drop the bike 1"-2", but that seems like a last ditch thing.

My preferred idea is to modify the shock spring perches themselves. I noticed that you can lower the bike 1/2-3/4" or so by adjusting the preload to the lightest setting. I also noticed that the little welded on nub that holds the adjustable perch up is about 1" above the bottom of the shock. That means there's a good extra inch of lowering to be had simply by grinding that nub off and relocating it 1" lower.

The obvious side effect of this is extreme softening of the spring preload. How much would it be? Who knows. I know the bike doesn't feel too soft right now at its softest setting, but maybe the extra inch would be too much.

What about cutting coils off the shock spring? I figure 2-3 active coils would also slam it pretty nicely. What manner of adverse effects could come of that? It stands to reason that the spring rate would increase slightly but the overall travel of course would be shortened. I wonder how close these bikes come to coil bind in the back as is.

Ideas? Thanks.
 
lowering

lowering

One simple thing I found along time ago was the purchasing of lowering blocks for my 1983 GS750T. Bought them from a local dealer for like 25 bucks or so. They have worked out very well, they lower the back end of the bike 2" and only have two bolts each. They mount from the bottom of the shocks to the swingarm. They kick the shocks back towards the rear axle. The only downside to that is that they take out the spring of the shocks and make it a stiffer ride kind of like a hardtail. But thats not a big deal to me I like the way it rides. I have to take them off when my wife rides with me cause its to stiff of a ride for her. You can take them off in about 15-20 minutes. They are on and off my bike in the pics I've got posted. I could get better pics of them if you like. Good luck. Tracy
 
I would love to see a closer look at these relocation brackets. I was thinking about a similar idea that would allow me to use different, i.e. longer, shock.
Could you post a close-up of your blocks?

thanks!
KM
 
Hey outofcontrol, I can get some closer pics of them tomorrow and post them no problem.
 
I appreciate the suggestion. Do they make lowering blocks for shaft drive suzukis though? That'd be nice.
 
I would start by cutting coils personally.

I would start with 1/4-1/2 coil......see how you like it, then go another 1/4-1/2. I would be a little hesitant to go more than 1 full coil however. Beyond that I would just find a shorter shock.

I am actually in the process of reversing a "redneck" lowering job on a buddies 81 CB900C. They cutoff and rewelded the lower shockmount on one side then used a piece of flimsy steel strip on the shaft side. They did a horrible job and the shock almost rubbed a hole in the gear housing on the shaft side.

I am putting everything back stock on his bike then cutting coils if he wants it any lower.

Anyway, that is the way I would do it.
 
Isaac, they should mount just fine even on a shaft drive. They don't mount onto the rear axle they mount inplace of the lower shock mounts
 
But the lower shock mount on a shaft drive is on the differential case.
 
lowering blocks

lowering blocks

here's the lowering blocks I have for my 750T.
suzuki-gs750t-83-bikepics-506147.jpg
suzuki-gs750t-83-bikepics-506148.jpg
suzuki-gs750t-83-bikepics-506149.jpg
 
Yeah those definitely work on a chain bike. Shaft, probably a different story. Doesn't seem like the left side one could be made stable without welding it to the shaft wheel housing.

I just ended up angle grinding off a coil and a half on both sides. Thanks for the tips.
 
Would these flip up when they are under a negative load? Like after a speed bump or something? I was expecting them to be also connected to the axle or something as a second point to keep them from swiveling around.
lblock1.jpg


My buddy with the ZRX broke his leg, so he won't be riding it for a while. I talked him into letting me take one of the shocks home to see how it would fit on my GS.

I'm going to give it a shot, but I have to wait until I get the frame back to really see if it works.

-Kevin
 
blocks

blocks

Hey Kevin, I believe I got them posted yesterday. Thanks, they won't rotate under normal riding conditions, but with them on you need to travel lightly over speed bumps and any rough surfaces. I've drug my header sometimes in the past but you get used to slowing down and being a little more careful. I tried to post a bigger pic but it shows up very large so I stuck with the smaller pics.
 
were can i get these blocks from?

were can i get these blocks from?

were can i get a set of these blocks, web adresses or shops that will send them. thanks

kevin can i see what your whole bike looks like
 
blocks

blocks

oddl777,I got those lowering blocks twenty years ago. I believe I got them from a local shop,Competition Accessories in Springfield Ohio.They have a website,not sure of the web address.I can find out and let you know later.
suzuki-gs750t-83-bikepics-510473.jpg
suzuki-gs750t-83-bikepics-513005.jpg
 
Any troubles with em so far

Any troubles with em so far

have any troubles with them blocks so far, like shock wear or any real damage. Nice bike also, looks good.
 
oddl777, never had any trouble with any wear or damage.The only difference I've noticed is that the blocks take away the cushion of the shocks.Makes it ride more stiff than usual.They lower the rear end 2" from stock height.That website is:http://www.compacc.com/. Thanks for the compliment on my bike.
 
thanks

thanks

thanks for the webpage i got some on the way hope they look good. thanks have a good one
 
sorry for diggin up such an old post but do you have a part number for the lowering blocks you ordered??
 
It would seem like to me that grinding that nub off or cutting coils out of the shocks would overstress the internals of the shock and cause them to prematurely fail. The internal pistons, etc. are only designed to compress to a certain point. Have you noticed any negative side effects?

I've used the lowering blocks before, but the best and most reliable way, although more expensive, is to order a set of shorter shocks, normally Progressive. Of course, the customer had $350 to blow, I personally don't. But if you could find a decent motorcycle junkyard, you may be able to find some shorter shocks off of a junked bike.
 
Cutting the springs is a bad idea. When you finaly get them cut enough to see a substantial drop of at least 2 in, they wiggle off the spring perch and they handling is terrible/dangerous. Then the shock blows out and your back to square one. Lowing blocks are good only if you don't have a disc brake because the shock hits it when the shock is layed out. best is to find a set of shocks 2 in. shorter. I have Suzuki Savage shocks on my 550e. works great. They are 10.5 inchs exactly and really stiff.
 
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