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More rebuild Cylinder trauma

  • Thread starter Thread starter the1pig
  • Start date Start date
T

the1pig

Guest
More rebuild Cylinder trauma,

I just noticed the bore is slightly raised after it came back from the parts cleaner. It does not want to move to go flush. Is there a secret or do I need to take it to a shop to be pressed in?

1982GS1100GKcylinder
 
I have heard that you can raise up the cylinder block with 2x4 lumber, stick the whole thing in the oven, warm it up and the cylinders will fall into place.
How warm and how long, I don't know. :-k

.
 
Holy crap man, I would go down to your parts cleaner and freak out on them. It doesnt even look that clean.:eek:
 
Steve said:
I have heard that you can raise up the cylinder block with 2x4 lumber, stick the whole thing in the oven, warm it up and the cylinders will fall into place.
How warm and how long, I don't know. :-k

.
Click to expand...
I have seen this too... Makes complete sense. Give it a shot id say. Pre-heat to about 500, and stick it in there for a lil while. Keep an eye on it though. Not a whole lot can really go wrong, so long as you dont forget its in there :p Oh, dont forget to remove the cylinder ORings if you havent already. that would definately make a mess i think.. but then again, those bores get pretty damn hot..
 
Do NOT set the oven at 500! All you need is 350 until the sleeve reseats. If you need to tap it down with a block of wood do so. If you set it to 500 you will warp the block. Also, after you get the sleeze back down, turn the oven off & let the block cool back to room temp before you remove it from the oven. Ray.
 
rapidray said:
Do NOT set the oven at 500! All you need is 350 until the sleeve reseats. If you need to tap it down with a block of wood do so. If you set it to 500 you will warp the block. Also, after you get the sleeze back down, turn the oven off & let the block cool back to room temp before you remove it from the oven. Ray.
Click to expand...
Ok, DONT set the oven at 500...while im sure its seen temps that high in its life, its true it isnt bolted down, and ray is probably very correct.
 
You can drive the cylinder down with a block of wood to protect the metal and a large hammer. Support the cylinder on a couple of 2x4's layed parallel and spaced wide enough for the steel liners to fit down between them; this will give some support to the aluminum cylinder when you pound on the liner from above. I did this after removing the liners use a BBQ. Big Jay said the liners pop up slightly during cooling and I wanted to make sure they were fully seated. Seemed to work as a couple of the liners went down a smig further than before.
 
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Thanks for the info. The wife is not to keen on me using her oven to bake my parts. Ill do it on Monday when she is not around. It is easier to ask for forgiveness then to ask for permission.

In the mean time I ll see if I can find a shop to donate some time to me to press it back. I have already tried the 2x4 and a big hammer approach it did not work.

You should have seen it before I took it to a parts cleaner it was horrible. You get what you pay for the guy did it for free.

This and a little bit of electrical work is keeping me from putting her back together and on the road. Well that and Snow :( !!!
 
TheCafeKid said:
Ok, DONT set the oven at 500...while im sure its seen temps that high in its life, its true it isn't bolted down, and ray is probably very correct.
Click to expand...

the gases in the combustion chamber see 500 and above the cylinder should never get any where near that. I have seen head temps on a hot bike close to 300*f oil temps are officially hot at 260*f all the heat is generated when the piston is passing top dead center. that is why there is so much more cooling fins on the head, the majority of the heat is there.
 
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