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Moto gp works exhaust jetting

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mario
  • Start date Start date
M

Mario

Guest
Hey all, got my sweet exhaust from red. Holy **** is it nice.
Any jetting advice? Im running dyno jet 3. 132 mains needles at bottom clip. Pilots at 3 out. K&N's

Anyone else running this pipe?
Just looking for your setup.
Thanks.
 
Mario said:
Hey all, got my sweet exhaust from red. Holy **** is it nice.
Any jetting advice? Im running dyno jet 3. 132 mains needles at bottom clip. Pilots at 3 out. K&N's

Anyone else running this pipe?
Just looking for your setup.
Thanks.
Click to expand...

The biggest change between pipes is 4:1 v.s. 4:2:1. Other than that Pods make the biggest difference requiring twice as much jet size increase as the change from stock to 4:2:1.


If you can explain what else you are running on the motor, your will probably get some reasonable guesses and maybe even a consensus on range of mains to pursue.


Nice exhaust BTW never seen one in person but the pictures look very nice.
 
A

A

Mario said:
The rest of the bike is stock.
Click to expand...

Also assume you are talking about this kit.
http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3133.pdf

Carb setup:
For a stock gs1100ed with k&n pods and 4:1 pipe the standard setup is
138 DJ mains (will be a little richer but you are at low altitude)
47.5 pilot jets (stock is 45 so yes you need to change them)
Fiddle with the needle starting in the middle.
Follow the rest of the DJ directions for drilling the slides.
Set idle screws to normal( see manual).

Tuning:
I assume you don't have a wbo2 sensor and also did not mention plug chops except to use a clean set of plugs to check out the mains.
Make sure the bike revs out without missing or hesitation should be no reason to change main but make sure the plugs are not too dark. Is so go back to the DJ 132.
Then fine tune needle usually up one notch if you get mid range burble.
Set idle screws for highest rpm method.


Maybe Chef1366 will come along to ad something to this.
 
Last edited:
Being that you ride at Sea level, and are still using the factory airbox, you should only have to increase the main jets by 3-4 sizes I would think. Keep the stock pilot jets and fine tune using your fuel screws. If you cannot get it right with the fuel screws, then just maybe, you could go up one size on those pilots.
 
Last edited:
GSX1000E said:
Being that you ride at Sea level, and are still using the factory airbox, you should only have to increase the main jets by 3-4 sizes I would think. Keep the stock pilot jets and fine tune using your fuel screws. If you cannot get it right with the fuel screws, then just maybe, you could go up one size on those pilots.
Click to expand...

I know the OP is being a bit terse, making it difficult to figure out what he is really trying to do. So if you go back you will see in the first post he added "K&N", from which I presume we are to gather he means K&N pods. Which would be the biggest factor in his jetting. :o
 
Last edited:
I missed that. In that case, he needs to richen the crap out of it for sure. ;)
 
I should mention, it runs great up to about 8000rpm, then it kinda stumbles/runs out of steam. Midrange is shoulder socket ripping. I switched from a star drag pipe, which kinda had the same charecteristics, except the lean at idle issue.
How much fuel screw can it have before the pilot jet comes into play? Is there a point where fuel screw has no effect? That circuit has always baffled me.
 
Mario said:
I should mention, it runs great up to about 8000rpm, then it kinda stumbles/runs out of steam. Midrange is shoulder socket ripping. I switched from a star drag pipe, which kinda had the same charecteristics, except the lean at idle issue.
How much fuel screw can it have before the pilot jet comes into play? Is there a point where fuel screw has no effect? That circuit has always baffled me.
Click to expand...

As noted earlier, Increase the main then do the rest.


http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html
 
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