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Motor tear down extra pieces...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Pigthang
  • Start date Start date
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Pigthang

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26CF3295-51AD-44AC-8CDB-73A2A56927BD-15776-00000563D8861C2F.jpg



Found these after reassembly of the case halves. Electrical contacts of some kind...? Not sure where they fell out of maybe the gear position sensor?

Gs300l
1983
Suzuki
 
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They look like the hard rubber damper blocks that fit in between the cylinder fins.
They help to dampen fin vibration.
They may have fallen, and so seem they came from the crankcase halves.
 
They look like the parts that go against the cam chain guide called a cushioner.
Part number 6 in the attached picture. Pretty easy to leave out.
 
Hi,

A little bigger picture:

03.gif



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
If that is what they are, they are important pieces. Don't start the engine until they are back in place. I used a little engine case sealant to hold them in place when I assembled my engine.
What are their actual dimensions (in mm if you have a digital caliper).
 
Interesting. GS1000 doesn't have those. Glad to hear the mystery has been solved. Nothing worse than putting an engine together and winding up with extra parts.
 
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If you have a buddy building an engine, wait until he's finished assembling it and accidentally leave one piston's worth of the same rings in the original packaging some place he'll find it. Good fun.

Sorry I don't know what your little mystery engine bits are.
 
tkent02 said:
If you have a buddy building an engine, wait until he's finished assembling it and accidentally leave one piston's worth of the same rings in the original packaging some place he'll find it. Good fun.

Sorry I don't know what your little mystery engine bits are.
Click to expand...

Or just one piston circlip. :)
 
Is there a way to get them in without tearing the motor apart again? Haha

I don't have a digital gauge but they are about 9.5x6.5x6.5 mm
 
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Pigthang said:
Is there a way to get them in without tearing the motor apart again? Haha

I don't have a digital gauge but they are about 9.5x6.5x6.5 mm
Click to expand...

if you can pull out the tensioner blade (No.5 in the diagram) out then yes you can refit them without stripping the whole top end.
you will have to remove the cams and chain tensioner to get to it.
i dont know much about this model engine so i may be wrong.
 
tkent02 said:
If you have a buddy building an engine, wait until he's finished assembling it and accidentally leave one piston's worth of the same rings in the original packaging some place he'll find it. Good fun.
Click to expand...

tatu said:
Or just one piston circlip. :)
Click to expand...
We did something similar at a GoldWing rally a few years ago. One guy trailered his Wing in because it had a dead stator. Another guy was planning on helping him replace it.
I know, it doesn't sound like much, but on that model Wing, you have to remove the engine to get to the stator. :eek:

Anyway, while the two of them were busy putting things back together somebody (NOT me :-\\\) put a couple of spacers on the floor. When the engine was back in place, one guy picked up the spacers and asked the other one "where did these come out of?". "I thought that you took them out." "No, I thought you had them." Before they started taking the engine back out to find where the spacers went, the perpetrator (again, that was NOT me) admitted to putting them on the floor.

Extra nuts, bolts or washers are not usually much of a problem, but spacers are just to specific to leave out. :o

.
 
Agemax said:
if you can pull out the tensioner blade (No.5 in the diagram) out then yes you can refit them without stripping the whole top end.
you will have to remove the cams and chain tensioner to get to it.
i dont know much about this model engine so i may be wrong.
Click to expand...
That engine is a clone of my GPz engine. The top end must come off to remove No. 5. See the pivot point down at the bottom of No. 5? There is one on the other side as well. It fits into a groove in the cases, and is held in place by the cylinder block. Been there, done that.
 
koolaid_kid said:
That engine is a clone of my GPz engine. The top end must come off to remove No. 5. See the pivot point down at the bottom of No. 5? There is one on the other side as well. It fits into a groove in the cases, and is held in place by the cylinder block. Been there, done that.
Click to expand...
bummer, oh well.......it was worth a shot if it saved removing the whole top end :(
 
That engine is a clone of my GPz engine.
Click to expand...

I am really confused, how can a 299cc parallel twin cylinder DOHC be a clone of a GPz engine. Is it like one half of your four cylinder?

You are correct about having to take the engine apart to replace the missing pieces. The only reason I knew what they were is cause I've got them in the RF900 engine I am working on.
 
The design of that piece is an exact duplicate of my GPz engine. All the way down to the pivot points and the 2 little pieces that are a PITA.
I misspoke when I said it was an exact duplicate part for part. But I'll wager that part will fit right in my engine.
 
almarconi said:
I am really confused, how can a 299cc parallel twin cylinder DOHC be a clone of a GPz engine. Is it like one half of your four cylinder?

You are correct about having to take the engine apart to replace the missing pieces. The only reason I knew what they were is cause I've got them in the RF900 engine I am working on.
Click to expand...

just for reference, they did produce the GPZ305, a parallel twin cylinder DOHC although i doubt the engine bared any resemblance to its bigger 4 cylinder GPZmodels.
 
What I should have said is that is the same design.
For some reason I thought I was looking at a GS750, which is a clone.
Sorry, wasn't on my second six pack yet. ;)
 
Pigthang said:
Is there a way to get them in without tearing the motor apart again? Haha

I don't have a digital gauge but they are about 9.5x6.5x6.5 mm
Click to expand...


No, there is no other way around it.

Take the engine out and lay it upside down. Take the bottom end half off and you can refit the the spacers. That's the way of least amount of work.

Everything stays in the top end.
Page 72 of the 250/450 Haynes manual manual show's this
 
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Yep, sorry, that's what they are and that's what has to be done to get them in... a bummer but critical!

Same setup in the 450, and when I first split the cases I wondered what they were... then worked it out and kept them very safe!
 
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