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mounting a degree wheel

  • Thread starter Thread starter gearhead13
  • Start date Start date
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gearhead13

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I am planning to degree my cams. I have stock cams now and want to get some aftermarket cams later, I thought I would start with degreeing the current cams.
How do you mount the degree wheel with the engine in the bike? If I mount it on the right side, I have to be able to turn the engine over as well as hold the wheel firmly. I read that mounting it on the left after pulling the rotor is probably the best way, but can it be done without messing around with pulling the rotor?
 
Yes, just remove the rotor NUT, install the wheel, re-install the nut & just snug the nut against the wheel to keep the wheel from moving. When finished degreeing, remove the wheel & re-torque the nut. Ray.
 
Ok, sounds good. How hard is it to hold the rotor to remove the nut? Put it in 5th gear and step on the rear brakes?
 
Ok, another question.
Where do I mount the dial indicator? My machine shop guy suggested that i use a magnet mount and put it on the frame above the head......
 
Get a piece of 1/4 inch thick, 1 inch wide steel bar & cut it to length & drill it to mount it where 2 of the valve cover bolt holes are across from each other. Use a magnetic dial indicator base & stick it on the bar. Ray.
 
Well, got my dial indicator, magnet mount, degree wheel, 1/4 x1 inch steel to mount it on and I am slotting some sprockets now. Hopefully I can get it done tomorrow, might take all day because I havent done this before:rolleyes:
 
Well, I have a compressor, and a cheap air impact isnt too much so, maybe.
 
hey gearhead, if youre not finished yet how about taking a few pics for us less knowledgeable folks?
cheers
 
hey gearhead, if youre not finished yet how about taking a few pics for us less knowledgeable folks?
cheers

Yes I'll second that. I would like to degree my camshafts as well some day soon.
 
hey gearhead, if youre not finished yet how about taking a few pics for us less knowledgeable folks?
cheers
I am learning as I go (and read).
Yes, for sure I will take pics no problem.
I am trying to set aside a full day as I want to triple check everything so I dont get any bent valves.
 
Well, I got it done, started at 2pm and didnt finish til midnight. Didnt help that i had drunk neighbours and a curious little boy looking over my shoulder. I was aiming for 108 ex 106 in, but couldnt adjust ex any further than 106.75, so I set intake 2 degrees less. The impact driver worked great at removing the rotor bolt. Bike runs real good, smoother and more power everywhere. I had to mount the mag mount to the frame as there wasnt enough room to mount it on the 1" bar I had made. I was able to do the degreeing alone better with one hand to turn the engine and looking over the bike to see the dial and degree wheel (helps to be tall with long arms). The dial indicator and mag mount cost me $55 CDN and the degree wheel $65.
I printed out this page that has the calculations needed to find lobe centerline: http://medlem.spray.se/biker661/Camtiming.htm
Here are a couple of pics

degree.jpg

degree2.jpg
 
Way to go Gearhead! I have a question though. Why could you not put the cam timing where you wanted? Ray.
 
I have a question though. Why could you not put the cam timing where you wanted? Ray.

Ray ; His wheel was not big enough .:D.

Gearhead

Nice photo documentary :rolleyes:
 
Way to go Gearhead! I have a question though. Why could you not put the cam timing where you wanted? Ray.
The slot I made in the sproket wasn't long enough. I might have been able to move it over a tooth, but i was WAY tired and 1.25 deg wasnt worth it.
I was too tired to even take a test drive til the next day.
 
I think the exhaust was way off because of how much i had to adjust it. It idles a lot quieter now. I wanted to check the numbers before i installed the slotted sprockets, but I knew there wasn't enough time.
 
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