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Mounting GS1100L carbs

  • Thread starter Thread starter Doug8520
  • Start date Start date
D

Doug8520

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Hey guys,
I just removed the stock airbox from my GS1100L and installed the pod style air filters. With the stock airbox gone, the carbs hang from the motor like a spring board. I have had issues on other motorcycles with the carbs bouncing freely. Does anyone have a suggestion for mounting the carbs to prevent them from bouncing? Does someone sell a bracket?

Thanks!
Doug
 
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I'm sorry, I should have listed more information. The bike is a 1980 GS1100L, Chain drive, stock motor, and stock frame. Pretty much everything on the bike is stock except the vance and hines 4 into 1 exhaust and the newly added air filter pods.

Thanks for reminding me.
 
I think you will have to make your own bracket from the upper carb rail to where the airbox attaches to the frame.

Don't know anybody who makes one.

Suzuki mad
 
Good thing to worry about: the pressure will strain and eventually seperate the front boots. I just use a coat hanger wire around the back of the carbs up to the frame.
 
I have the same bike. Get new intake pipes and run it. The new ones will be stiffer and hold the carbs better.
What jetting did you use?
 
Thanks guys for the replies,

Chef1366, I started with the jetting setup that Dyna suggested in the instructions: DJ138 mains and the 3rd notch on the needle. I figure I will start there and begin the process of finding the magic combination. I haven't started looking around on here yet for this configuration and the best jetting set up. It looks like you have the pods in your picture. Any suggestions?
thanks,
Doug
 
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Chef's is different now because he rebored his cylinders.

This is what I have, with your exact setup (Bill correct me if I'm wrong here):

170 Pilot Air Jets
47.5 Pilot Jet
132 Mains
Needle clip @ second from bottom.
 
With the V&H pipe I'd raise the needle one more notch (lower the clip on the needle one notch)
The 138 is good. I would go up to 47.5 on the pilot jet. The idle mixture screws will have to come out around three turns.
I would also bump up the pilot air jet to 165. I did 170 and it was too lean. Popped like crazy. This will smooth out the idle.
 
165?!? I think I may need to beat you with a rack of carbs Bill.


And I'm running 138s?
 
Chef's is different now because he rebored his cylinders.

This is what I have, with your exact setup (Bill correct me if I'm wrong here):

170 Pilot Air Jets
47.5 Pilot Jet
132 Mains
Needle clip @ second from bottom.
I thought I put in the 138s
 
I don't remember, I just went back and read through your old emails of what you did originally.

You definitely have me running 170s pilots though
 
Cool, that will save me a bunch of trial and error. Thanks!

Where can I buy 170 pilot air jets and 47.5 pilot jets? My little dyno jet kit didn't come with those. I think I remember reading somewhere on here about where to get them individually a while back, but I can't remember.
 
Thanks for your help! I am having trouble getting my idle screws out so I can't tell you that it worked. They obviously have 28 years of resistance working against me.

Thanks again guys!
Doug
 
Thanks for your help! I am having trouble getting my idle screws out so I can't tell you that it worked. They obviously have 28 years of resistance working against me.

Thanks again guys!
Doug

Spray them with carb cleaner and let them soak.
 
In case anyone reads this through to the end, I ended up taking a little advice from Chef and Don-lo for mounting the carbs. I used new manifolds and black Zipties between the frame cross member under the tank and the angled carb rail which holds the carbs together. Super EASY to remove when working on the carbs.

Thanks Bill and J C for your help with the carbs!
 
My little dyno jet kit didn't come with those. ...
Key thing to remember here is that the numbers on the DynoJet jets and the Mikuni jets are not directly compatible.

There is a conversion factor, so your jets might be closer than you think. :-k

.
 
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