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Moving onto valve adjustment 77 gs750

  • Thread starter Thread starter hkspwrsche
  • Start date Start date
hkspwrsche said:
Is there a better picture of where the feeler gauge goes?
Click to expand...

Hi,

Did you see the pictures on page 18 of the guide? I don't see how that can be much more clear. I order my shims from Z1. At about $5 each, they're the best deal in town (mentioned on page 14 of the guide).


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
BassCliff said:
Hi,

Did you see the pictures on page 18 of the guide? I don't see how that can be much more clear. I order my shims from Z1. At about $5 each, they're the best deal in town (mentioned on page 14 of the guide).


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...


Thanks I should have just looked at the manual or scrolled down, the cutaway made it more clear to me. Nothing between the cam and the shim just checking the clearance directly. I'm sure it would have been clear once apart also. I've had good luck with Z1 on my dyna S, so I will order from them if need any new ones.. Looks like as long as the lobe end isn't anywhere near the shim you can check the clearance.

Any advice on what to use as the special tool to depress the valve to remove the shim? brake spring compressor or anything that'll fit? Otherwise I'll just order the tool when I order shims and the gasket. I was thinking I would do my checks to inventory my shims and them order shims and a valve cover gasket.

Thanks again
 
Last edited:
hkspwrsche said:
Looks like as long as the lobe end isn't anywhere near the shim you can check the clearance.

Any advice on what to use as the special tool to depress the valve to remove the shim? brake spring compressor or anything that'll fit?
Click to expand...
NO, you can't simply put the lobe anywhere you want. The procedure is rather specific: on the exhaust, point #1 toward the front of the head, #2 will point straight up. Measure BOTH, #1 and #2 without moving anything. Rotate the crank 180 degrees, now EX #4 will be pointing forward and EX #3 will be up. Measure BOTH, #3 and #4 without moving anything. Rotate the crank another 180 degrees, intake #1 will be pointing up, #2 will be pointing backward. Measure BOTH #1 and #2 without moving anything. Finally, roatate the crank a final 180 degrees, measure #3 and #4.

The reason for the specific positioning is that in those positions, neither valve on that side of the cam will be pushing on a valve, which will offset it in the cam journal a bit, which will affect the reading for the adjacent valve.


I don't think I would try using a brake spring compressor in there, I have no idea where you would put it. About the only thing that will work to push the bucket down is the recommended tool, which is readily available for $15 or less. However, if you look on BassCliff's site, just below the tutorial that you linked to in your first post, you will see the "zip-tie supplement". That is the method that I use, as I find it easier and quicker than the "official" tool.

By the way, you will need one tool or the other BEFORE you find out what shims you need to order. For help in determining what shims you need, read the end of my sig.
 
Cool trick Matchless. Steve thanks for bringing that to my attention!
 
if a lot of my valves are .0015 should I adjust them? and I noticed that some peaple say they can settle in after a ride, I swapped the worst offenders and ended up with a .0035 on one, should I try it? I just want to do it right the first time since i dont have any extra shims and have to order them
 
.0015" is still within spec, but will likely need to be changed next time.

Should you change it? No real need to change it, but it won't hurt, either.

If all the other valves are on the looser end of the spec range, I would change the shim on this one, too. Most engines are happier with valves are a bit looser. They still breathe quite well, the torque band moves down a few rpm into the range more of us use most of the time, the valves spend more time on their seats cooling off, everybody is much happier. :D

Order the shims you need from Z1, you will have them in less than a week.

.
 
Order them indeed from Z1, you will have them in less than a week EVEN if you live in Europe...
 
OK Folks... Here are the results of my valve clearance check and my current shim position as they are currently during this check.
I'm not sure how far less to go on my 0 clearance valves(smallest guage wouldnt fit).
It appears I can rearrange some of them for better positioning and then order the ones I'll need in addition.

#1 exhaust shim 2.65 Clearance 0
#1 intake Shim 2.75 Clearance .002"/.051 mm

#2 exhaust Shim 2.75 clearance 0
#2intake shim 2.75 clearance .0015'/.038

#3 exhaust shim 2.70 clearance .0015"/.038mm
#3 intake shim 2.85 clearance 0

#4 exhaust shim 2.65x clearance .002"/.051
#4 intake shim 2.75 clearance .002/.051mm
 
Last edited:
hkspwrsche said:
I'm not sure how far less to go on my 0 clearance valves(smallest guage wouldnt fit).
Click to expand...
To help determine whether you actually have ZERO clearance or merely something less than your smallest feeler, try spinning the bucket.
If it turns easily, you should be able to drop just one shim size. If it's hard, go for two sizes and hope.

I will once again extend the invitation to read the end of my sig and get the spreadsheet. It will help you determine shim sizes, keep track of them from one service interval to the next, and provide a log sheet area to record anything else you wish.

.
 
I did verify the buckets turned by hand so I think you're right. Emailed for the sheet. Thanks again
Harold
 
my real concern was with the looser one (0.0035). I got that when I swapped down 1 size, and was wondering if I should get an odd size shim for it.

I was curious about whether it is better to adjust the small ones preemptively, there are 4 that read 0.0015, and they are all on the 2-3 cylinders.

sorry if there was any confusion about my questions, im trying to learn this engine without it costing me a ton of money and/or frustration
 
It may be worth creating a new thread but basically the higher end of the tolerances are better for valve life. It will keep valves cooler which Steve already mentioned.
 
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