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Multiple engine questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter CA180
  • Start date Start date
C

CA180

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Hey guys... Got a question about my 550.

I just picked it up this weekend and got to looking her over and found that i have no bolts for the valve cover, no nuts on the head studs, no timing chain, and no caps for the intake cam.

Question is, would i be able to use cam caps from another used 550? There is a salvage here in town that says they have a couple of used bikes laying around and that they could help me out for a small fortune (:cry: )

My thought was that they were machined to match each head individually, and i was concerned that used caps my damage the cam iteslf.

Also, would i be able to use regular bolts for the valve cover?

Oh, and the rubber adapters that clamp the carb to the head on my bike are covered in blue silicone (my guess is he thought he had a vacuum leak), were would be a good place to pick these up?

Any and all help is appreciated, thanks in advance...

Stephen
 
The cam caps interchange can be argued as to a "should or should not do" issue, I've seen posts on both sides of the arguement. It has been done with success. As far as the rest of the parts, if you need all of that, I'd suggest working a deal for the entire top end of a donor 550, cams and all.

For the "blue" boots, order yourself a new set and the orings to go with them...few if any arguements on this one.

The head bolts / nuts can be purchased separately but if you go the way of the entire top end "highly suggested", you won't need to order new ones.
 
I never have swapped cam caps so I can't answer that one. I've heard you shouldn't though.
When you get a cam chain you need to get one with a master link or you'll have to split your cases.
I agree with Dave on the intake boots. Get new ones with o-rings and forget about it.
I would hunt Ebay for a good head with cams and caps.
Good luck
 
Well, i pulled the head off and checked out what was going on.... Looks like to me that the timing chain broke, pistons came up and smacked three valves... Looks like a replacement head is the way to go on this one.

That will fix all the internal problems at this time. Then i'm gonna go hunting for the carb boots.

Also, what problems will i run into using four small filters rather than the stock box. I've seen it done, and heard complaints... But no one said yay or nay...

Let me know what you guys think... Thanks, Stephen
 
CA180 said:
Also, what problems will i run into using four small filters rather than the stock box. I've seen it done, and heard complaints... But no one said yay or nay...
Click to expand...

You'll have to rejet the carbs if you install "pod" filters. There is not a consensus as to whether it's worth it or not, or exactly how hard/easy rejetting is. It's surely easier to wrangle the carbs sans stock airbox and you will see a performance increase with pods (how much of an increase is also a matter of debate). Most people agree you generally want to couple pod filters with upgraded exhaust as well.

For my money these are already high performance machines and I don't fancy the rejetting process, so I've come to terms with the stock airbox. YMMV, though!
 
Hmmm... Sounds about right to me...

Well, luckily i tracked down a head here at a salvage for $75 with complete top end... Sure lucked out on that one
 
CA180 said:
Hmmm... Sounds about right to me...

Well, luckily i tracked down a head here at a salvage for $75 with complete top end... Sure lucked out on that one
Click to expand...

A much better/easier method and all comes as a package, already mated. \\:D/ Were the piston tops free of major damage. Hope it was a low RPM connection.

Good luck.
 
Find a donor 650 and take the pistons,up and slap them on.

I swapped out a 550 8 v pistons up with a 650 and it was fine, ran pretty dang good too.

Thats was 1992, and about 10 billion gallons of beer ago, but it did work.

Only reason I remember, is because I was told back then, "That ain't gonna work.."
You know the rest of the story, it did. :-D
 
CA180 said:
Hmmm... Sounds about right to me...

Well, luckily i tracked down a head here at a salvage for $75 with complete top end... Sure lucked out on that one
Click to expand...

Ron's Cycle Land? They have had everything I have ever gone in there looking for for my bike. Their prices are generally fairly reasonable.
 
Yup, Blane over at rons set me up... Hopefully i can find a seat and some intake boots over there too.
 
Do not try to swap cam caps. You'll ruin at least the head, if not the cams.

As for the 650 swap... I know of at least two active board users who have that exact setup. *whistles innocently*

As for the carb boots. They are most likely ok, just be sure to replace the o-rings that go between them and the head.
 
Last edited:
Figured that about the caps. I learned about how they "break" the caps off of con rods. I figured the cams caps on these engines were the same.

Oh, and my carb boot are shot! I'm my attempt to pull the carbs off i ripped atleast two of them.

Thanks for all the help guys, i'll post back when she's going!
 
oK,,, couple more questions.

I found the master link to the timing chain down in the chain valley. I'm concerned that there may be more crap down in the case.

If i split the case an i looking for trouble? Are the crank main caps part of the lower case or is the lower half independent? I plan on buying a service manual for this thing ASAP, but i kinda wanted to know what else was wrong before i start spending alot of money on a engine thats shot.

Also, how do i get the timing chain guide (tensioner side) out of the block? I unbolted it, but she dont wanna slide out.

Again, thanks for all the help so far.

Stephen
 
The cases are the bearing holders, the bearings are part of the multi piece crank.

Splitting the cases isn't very hard. Be sparing with the case sealer when you reassemble (I used Yamabond soft). Splitting would be a good idea to check for debris or clogged oil passages

Definately replace both the cam chain guides when you pull the top end. Not only do they wear, but they get brittle with age. Besides, that broken cam chain probably beat the heck out of it.

The guides will pop out. Pull the cams, the head and they should pull out.. .
 
Ok, so they are rollers? Someone that i work with said that if they are rollers and i split it then the bearings would go every where. Doesnt seem right to me, but this is a first for me.

As for the case sealer, would that be the same stuff used to put together manual trans out of a car or truck? If so, i've got loads of it here at the shop.

Oh, and the guide (like i said, on the tensioner side) will not pull out of the top AT ALL! The pivot point is too wide.

Oh, just so you guys know, i have the engine on the floor so i'm reafy to dive in.

Thank you all for your patients... I'll get this whipped yet!
 
MAN!!! I'm glad i pulled the case apart! Bacsically the timing chain came apart and the guides grenaded! Metal chunks sitting on the bottom of the timing chain valley.

Question about the case sealer... Can i use that red anarobic sealer. We have Mopar gasket maker here, and that sounds about like what Big T was talkin bout.

Getting real close to going here... thanks again!
 
:cry: anyone know a good place to get a timing chain and guides for a good price? Local bike parts store here wants $80 for the chain, $100 for both guides, and $85 for the head gasket... I guess i'm accustomed to working on chevy motors, everythings cheap.. :?
 
I don't know of anywhere that will be much cheaper on the chain and guides. However, I would recommend going to one of the after market cycle shops online for the gaskets. I got a complete Vesrah kit (all gaskets needed for a complete rebuild) for right about $100. I got mine from Dennis Kirk.
 
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