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Murphys Law Strikes Again

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
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Anonymous

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Yesterday when i took the drain plug out of the oil pan on the gs1100 it had traces of metal in the threads-It seems that i cross threaded it when i last changed the oil. It will no longer tighten when i put the oil plug back into the oil pan. I am planning to remove the oil pan and have a helicoil installed. I realize that im the only person on the website who makes mistakes but i was wondering if any one had some hear say advice to give me. Perhaps a self tapping drain plug if they are available in metric etc.???
 
I DID THE SAME THING ON MY 850,TRY TAKE A RUBBER WASHER
ON THEN TIGHTEN UP. IT WORKED FOR ME .
 
lenfo said:
I DID THE SAME THING ON MY 850,TRY TAKE A RUBBER WASHER
ON THEN TIGHTEN UP. IT WORKED FOR ME .
Click to expand...
Thay woul be great i it works--THANKS A LOT
 
Ever see those temporary oil drain plugs? They are rubber and can be bought at most auto parts stores. I rode with one for three years without any problem until I finally helicoiled the pan.
 
On my 850 i stuffed the hole with 2-compo steel stuff. After it had dried out i drilled a new hole in it and made new thread in it (smaller size than original) with a normal bolt size which you can buy everywhere. It works perfect.
 
Jethro said:
Ever see those temporary oil drain plugs? They are rubber and can be bought at most auto parts stores. I rode with one for three years without any problem until I finally helicoiled the pan.
Click to expand...
I just did that this morning Jethro. the 1/2 inch one was too small and the 5/8 was too large so i ground a little metal off the gizmo and now it in--i will get to the helicoil thing soon but am glad you gave me the re assurance that they hold for a bit

Thanks all for the help--now back to the idiot lights coming on
 
THE BIKE IS UP AND RUNNING WITH THE RUBBER OIL DRAIN PLUG BUT IT SEEPS AND DRIPS SLIGHTLY--i AM GLAD TO BE ABLE TO USE IT AND IT WILL GET IT TO MY MECHANIC FOR THR HELICOIL NEXT WEEK IF MURPHY((THAT IRISH #$%^%$#)) DOESN'T STRIKE AGAIN. i BOUGHT IT AT DISCOUNT AUTO PARTS FOR 3.99 AND IT HAS A WING NIT AT THE BOTTOM WHICH CAUSES IT TO EXPAND. MANY MANY MOONS AGO, I REMEMBER A RUBBER PLUG THAT WAS INSTALLED WITH A SPECIAL TO TO STRETCH IT. BUT I DIDNT SEE ANY OF THEM. :cry:
 
slopoke said:
THE BIKE IS UP AND RUNNING WITH THE RUBBER OIL DRAIN PLUG BUT IT SEEPS AND DRIPS SLIGHTLY--i AM GLAD TO BE ABLE TO USE IT AND IT WILL GET IT TO MY MECHANIC FOR THR HELICOIL NEXT WEEK IF MURPHY((THAT IRISH #$%^%$#)) DOESN'T STRIKE AGAIN. i BOUGHT IT AT DISCOUNT AUTO PARTS FOR 3.99 AND IT HAS A WING NIT AT THE BOTTOM WHICH CAUSES IT TO EXPAND. MANY MANY MOONS AGO, I REMEMBER A RUBBER PLUG THAT WAS INSTALLED WITH A SPECIAL TO TO STRETCH IT. BUT I DIDNT SEE ANY OF THEM. :cry:
Click to expand...
Had one of those rubber plugs that required a special tool on my '61 Chevy. Worked great. Used it for many years. There was one on my wife's early 80's Olds Cutlass, and Mr.Lube didn't have the tool to remove it! 8O Didn't really matter, it was a cheap "between vans" car. :wink:
 
Slopoke;
I'm glad you have your drain plug problem resolved...Ererr :roll: ..somewhat
Hey...at least you're ridin.

QUESTION...what's a " I'm gonna get a helicoil installed" ?????
How does a helicoil solve the problem ??

Thanks for some enlightenment
 
A helicoil is a bushing with thread on the in- and outside. The idea is to drill the excisting hole (where you ruined the thread) to a larger-size (outer-dia of the helicoil), tap new trhead (corresponding with the helicoil), screw in the helicoil and voila, you have new threads for the oilplug.

Its a great way to renovate your threads, but its a lotta work and requires special tooling, especially when you have to do it upside-down with oil dripping in your eyes.

Now you know whay scotty's specs are BLACK !
 
Arnold said:
A helicoil is a bushing with thread on the in- and outside. The idea is to drill the excisting hole (where you ruined the thread) to a larger-size (outer-dia of the helicoil), tap new trhead (corresponding with the helicoil), screw in the helicoil and voila, you have new threads for the oilplug.

Its a great way to renovate your threads, but its a lotta work and requires special tooling, especially when you have to do it upside-down with oil dripping in your eyes.

Now you know whay scotty's specs are BLACK !
Click to expand...

well i have all the bolts out of the oil pan and it doesnt want to budge--i will see if i got all the bolts out today. I will get the helicoil installed while the oil sump is off the bike for fear of getting shavings in the engine.
ANY TIPS ON REMOVING THE OIL SUMP :? :? YES YES REMOVE THE BOLTS FIRST :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
 
Thanks Arnold for the enlightenment.
Ya learn somethin every day.

Now...as far as Scotty's glasses go...maybe he could fashion small wipers to remove the oil.

Scotty, did you try tapping the pan with a mallet to shake it loose??
 
Sebby said:
Thanks Arnold for the enlightenment.
Ya learn somethin every day.

Now...as far as Scotty's glasses go...maybe he could fashion small wipers to remove the oil.

Scotty, did you try tapping the pan with a mallet to shake it loose??
Click to expand...

I would have answered sooner but the website has been so slow that i gave up about 6 times today.
The oil pan is off--first i used a rubber hammer--then a piece of wood and a regular hammer--then tried a knife--after that a wood tool that was flat and thin--finally my son found a large flat surface behind the kick stand switch and used the wood and hammer to knock it loose. next i bring it to the shop
 
Good deal, Slowpoke! Sledgehammers Forever :)

Although I want to do most jobs myself, I've have had some that I wished I had left it for the shop. I tend to draw the line when special tooling is required (another reason never to buy a Kawasaki). Also, I gave up on synchronising carbs: the shop does it in half an hour while it takes me forever to have them the way I want them. The shop is not as picky as I am and get them synch-ed good enough.

I think this would be a good moment to thank all posters for their contributions to this GREAT forum! The round of Dutch Brew is on me!
 
Arnold said:
Good deal, Slowpoke! Sledgehammers Forever :)

Although I want to do most jobs myself, I've have had some that I wished I had left it for the shop. I tend to draw the line when special tooling is required (another reason never to buy a Kawasaki). Also, I gave up on synchronising carbs: the shop does it in half an hour while it takes me forever to have them the way I want them. The shop is not as picky as I am and get them synch-ed good enough.

I think this would be a good moment to thank all posters for their contributions to this GREAT forum! The round of Dutch Brew is on me!
Click to expand...
Im not a beer drinker at all but the sound of fine european beers makes me thirtsy. When i was a genoa salami engineer I carried all of the imported beers that i could fit into my walk in refrigerators. I often tasted them and always found them superior to American beer((except for that mud that they sold us for stout :x ) Now I read all the conversation saying the the real thing is never exported to the USA and i have imagined enjoying a beer with friends from time to time. sounds great :D
 
Scotty;
Glad you got the pan off.
I was goin to suggest a nail-tip full of C-4 if the hammer didn't work.

Good luck on the helicoil.
 
Sebby said:
Scotty;
Glad you got the pan off.
I was goin to suggest a nail-tip full of C-4 if the hammer didn't work.

Good luck on the helicoil.
Click to expand...
The Helicoil is in now and because of the design of the drain gole the helicoil will not allow the sump to drain completely--well im still putting it together friday when the gasket comes in- i will be sure torun the engine first and also to chage the filter each time(i already do that). Next octobet i will drop the pan again and see if anything had accumilated. This si the first time the pan has been off since the bike was new and i only found a little sludge built up near the channels that are built into the pans casting.
 
Scotty,
What about drilling a horizontal hole thru the heli wall.
See how far into the pan the heli sits and, on the inside of the pan close to the bottom of the pan, drill a hole thru the heli.
This might help with draining.

Is it possible to do ??
 
slopoke said:
I would have answered sooner but the website has been so slow that i gave up about 6 times today.
The oil pan is off--first i used a rubber hammer--then a piece of wood and a regular hammer--then tried a knife--after that a wood tool that was flat and thin--finally my son found a large flat surface behind the kick stand switch and used the wood and hammer to knock it loose. next i bring it to the shop
Click to expand...
I bought my GS complete with a rubber oil plug gizmo and plan on fixing it the same way you did. I'm curious were you able to remove the oil pan without removing the (stock?) exhaust system?
 
Sebby said:
Scotty,
What about drilling a horizontal hole thru the heli wall.
See how far into the pan the heli sits and, on the inside of the pan close to the bottom of the pan, drill a hole thru the heli.
This might help with draining.

Is it possible to do ??
Click to expand...
I was afraid to drill the helicoil because it looke like the coil would not have enough grip surface to remain stationary if i altered its structure. It however woul seem to be the obvious solution. I will live with it because i change oil often and filter each time also.
Any other thoughts ??
 
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